8 Mistakes EVERY New Woodworker Makes With a Table Saw!

Discover 8 Mistakes EVERY New Woodworker Makes With a Table Saw

📽️Videos Mentioned:

#SumerayBuilds #Woodworking #diy

Chapters:
0:00 - Overview
0:29 - Mistake 1
1:24 - Mistake 2
2:05 - Mistake 3
3:47 - Mistake 4
4:29 - Mistake 5
4:59 - Mistake 6
5:28 - Mistake 7
6:22 - Mistake 8

[ypaulbrown]

loved your technique for ripping strips by using the miter guage with a stop block, and readjusting the fence each can not believe I have never thought of this, but at 72 years old, I might have at one time and just

[markjohnson]

Always good to have more woodworking material on youtube, but there were a few things I wanted to point out. First, at about a minute in to the meeting you do a cross cut with the butt of the board against the fence. This is a big hazard when using a table saw, as you can easy get out of 90 degrees on the board, have it bind between the saw and fence, the saw kicks back the board and maybe even rides up (less likely with the riving knife) and pulls your hand into the blade causing an amputation. Also, not using a blade guard is a big hazard, though is common and what makes the table saw the most dangerous saw in the shop. Finally, your advice to use a many toothed blade is incomplete. A many toothed blade is good for crosscutting but not for ripping. You want fewer teeth with larger gullets on a rip cut. Having a high tooth count blade for ripping will cause burning and will make the saw struggle and perhaps even stall. For how you were using your table saw, for both types of cuts, the best advice would be to get a combination blade that works relatively well for both cuts.

[ypaulbrown]

5:30, it may have been mentioned before, but the push stick you are pushing the timber against the fence [your left hand] should not be used to push further than the leading edge of the saw blade, otherwise, you will bind the kerf into the blade and get a Kick video overall....cheers from Florida, USA, an old geezer, Paul

[ColinMill]

It's very good to emphasise the safety considerations for power tools. I have been woodworking as an amateur for nearly 60 years but the accident I just had came out of nowhere and happened so fast I was unable to do anything to mitigate the injury. I was using a palm router with a slotting cutter to make biscuit recesses in some oak. The oak moved in the clamps and the cutter exited the slot and attacked my left hand really fast (the tip speed of the cutter I calculated was about 40 mph). I think myself lucky to still have a left thumb with much thanks to the plastic surgeons. There was some doubt initially that it could be saved.

[tomsmith]

Great tip! Only thing I'd add is that if you're using a small saw to rip thick lumber, it's a good idea to get a dedicated rip blade. Much less work for the saw.

[bclamore]

There is a benefit to raising the blade height: the cut angle is more downward. Less kickback velocity, should it occur. And of course you can make it safer by using the blade guard.

[Greyotterstudio]

I’m a hand tools guy (as I can’t afford power tools yet!) but this is genuinely invaluable advice and I’ll be taking it all onboard when I eventually get a table saw. Earned my like and a subscription 👍

[Seneca]

I've heard quite a few before, but I got a couple of more than welcome advices I'll be taking into account from now on. Thanks!

[tdk_woodcrafts]

when you are pushing the pieces thru with your push stick, it should be closer to the blade. by putting it close to the fence, you could be inadvertently causing the board to rotate slightly and potentially causing kickback.

[Zedster]

Saw blades are designed to be adjusted to a height where the full tooth is exposed above the board. Meaning the bottom of the tooth should be at the top of the board.

[dougdavidson]

Thanks for this video. Some I knew and learned a few new. Take care & stay safe.

[ronkrueger]

Aligning the blade and fence should be the first tip not the last. Also, thin stops, as narrow as 1/8" can be cut safely and consistently using a GRRIPPER or the like which also doubles as a safer push device than any push stick

[jasonduncan]

As a cabinet maker for nearly 40 years I find your advice on the height of your saw blade absolutely wrong, having the blade just below the surface of your piece will cause it to want to lift up off the table, especially if the blade is getting a bit blunt, however if you have it fully up the teeth are then cutting through the timber on a downward direction. Also using a guard over your blade is an absolute must unless you want a serious injury

[Kalense]

You say that you should make sure the fence is parallel to the blade. That is true, but not how anyone should think about it because it is not enough that they are parallel with each other. Both the blade and the fence should be parallel to the slots in the table.

[qjv]

Well, as a professional you leave the complte teeth looking right out the piece (about 1cm)
Also the fine wood blade is used for cuts against the direction of the grain, those with less teeth with its direction! If You use a fine wood blade in the same direction you will need more force, (as shown in 6:10) which hightens the danger of kickback and reduces its longlivety 🤷‍♂
Blades delivered by manufacturers are mostly something inbetween, that means that cuts in both directions are mediocre ...MEH!
And "Thou not shall cut long pieces perpendicular to the blade along the rip fence, AMEN!" - that has an extremly high risk of kickback because the contact surface is just too small to really keep it stable (same problem you explained the freehand cuttting 👏) - always use the miter gauge!!!
AND ALWAYS USE THE SAFETY CAP!!!

But the rest is really pretty neat 😊 👍

[virusbusters]

Hi - Tip 2 - Having your saw blade too high above your wood. I disagree with you saying there is never a reason to have it high. There are two reasons.
1 - When the saw is lower the direction of the front of the blade ( the half in front of the centre hole ) is pushing the wood towards you. The back half is also pushing the wood towards you - therefore more likely for the blade to accelerate the wood towards you. When the blade is fully raised the front half is pushing the wood down towards the table and less towards you. The downwards angle of the cutting teeth at the front is perpendicular (almost) to the table, heading downwards. When the blade is lower the direction is more of a 45 to the table heading more towards you.
2 - Second reason. A lower blade exposes the wood to more friction from the teeth, more likely to cause burning, than a fully raised blade, that has less surface area of the cutting edge touching the wood. Again, a lower blade has the cutting teeth going across the wood at about 45 degrees, while the higher blade has the teeth closer to 90 degrees. The lower blade exposes the wood to more of it being exposed to friction - more likely to cause burning marks.
3 - Did I say, two? I meant three. A lower blade makes it easier for the wood to climb on top of the blade and get fired towards you. A higher blade is harder to get kick back from as the wood has to climb further to get on top of the blade ( the position that most likely effects a kick back).

The simplest way to visualize the above is get a piece of wood and put the blade against it with the teeth only just touching the top. Draw a like around the blade. Add arrows to the line to see the direction of the force. Also measure the amount of the line on the wood. Now repeat with the blade high. See the shorter length of blade touching wood and the arrow directions of the force applied. It becomes self evident at that point.

There are times to have a lower blade, and times to have a higher blade. Ive found teaching others that less kick backs and wood climbs occur with a higher blade. Good push sticks mitigate the issue of hands being exposed to the blade. If your hand touches the blade, with a low blade its still a mess and your hand shouldn't have been there. If the wood is whipped away, a low blade is still tall enough to cut off fingers or transect hands as soon as the wood is 10 -15 mm (half inch) or more.

[Thymesea]

Subscribed as soon as I’ve heard metric, thank you very much!

[TheGooglyminotaur]

Notice in the push stick demo he doesn’t continue to push on the wood after it hits the blade? It’s not mentioned, but it’s important! The three directions of pressure stop as soon as that part of the wood begins to split. Pushing it toward the *blade* is a good way to damage your blade or, worse, get kickback.

Also, don’t be scared. Just go slow and *know where your hands are at all times* and you’ll do fine. The info is overwhelming but it comes together when you start. The hobby is as satisfying as you think it will be! ❤❤ Happy making to all of us safety nerds!

[anthonym.pacelli]

Love the tip on cutting thin strips of wood using the miter gauge as a gauge measuring block!

[scopex]

Blimey - I bought one of these last year done at LEAST 2 things wrong and survived - so far SUBSCRIBED!