Electric Showers: 'How to install the T80Z Fast-Fit and replace the T80xr' video from Triton Showers

preview_player
Показать описание

A short video showing how to install the T80Z Fast-Fit and replace the Triton T80xr

If you've ever struggled to replace an electric shower due to pipe and cable positions, then the T80Z Fast Fit is the shower for you.

It has 8 water entry points; top, back, bottom and side entry on the left, and the same on the right.

And 6 electric entry points; top, back and bottom on the left and the same again on the right. This makes it a hassle free, fast fit every time.

It's ideal for new installations and perfect for replacing most existing showers.

Providing the existing electric supply complies with the relevant safety regulations, and the water supply is adequate, you can fit a T80Z Fast Fit with the same kilowatt rating as the old shower, in no time at all.

Let's see just how quick and easy it is to replace the T80XR with the T80Z Fast Fit...

First make sure the electric and water supplies are isolated.

Now unscrew and remove the cover.
Test to check that the electric supply is isolated before removing the bottom trim.

Here the water enters the unit from the rear on the right and the electric also enters from the rear on the right.

Disconnect the supply cable.

Then disconnect the water supply.

Remove the wall fixing screws and remove the shower from the wall.

Now for the T80Z Fast Fit.

Take off the bottom trim plate and fit the top pipe entry trims.

Water connection is required on the right so adjust the Swivel Water Inlet to suit.

Electric connection is required on the right; so loosen the retaining screw on the Swing Fit Terminal and move it over to the right hand position.

Now secure in place by tightening the retaining screw.

Turn the elbow anti-clockwise through 90 degrees to match the inlet on the T80Z Fast Fit.

Locate the inlet fitting on to the water supply.
It's a perfect match; the new shower covers the existing fixing holes.

Check the back plate is level and mark the new wall fixing points.

Next remove the unit and drill and plug the new holes.

Fit a nut and olive to the Water Inlet.

Place the unit back on the wall and connect it to the water supply.

Then screw the back plate to the wall.

Fully tighten the water connection, and turn on the water to check for leaks.

Connect the supply cables to the terminal blocks making sure that the connections are fully tightened.

Now fit the bottom trim plate.

Clip the power indicator light into the front cover.
And make sure that the controls are correctly aligned.

Fit the cover and secure it with the 3 fixing screws.

Finally, connect the hose to the unit, turn on the electric supply and commission the shower on a cold setting....

....now there's just the shower kit to replace.
If you haven't already done so, remove the old kit from the wall.

In some cases you can use the existing fixing holes for the new shower kit.

Start by fitting the top fixing plate to the preferred height, using the existing hole if possible, then slide the bracket onto it.

Now fit the showerhead holder, the soap dish and the hose retainer on to the rail.

Fit the bottom bracket and fixing plate onto the rail, and align with the holes in the rail. Secure with the long screw.

Next, guide the rail into the top bracket. The rail can be adjusted; in this case to line up with the original fixing hole. There may be times when a new fixing point is needed.

Now screw the bracket to the wall.

Fit the top...and the bottom trims, feed the shower hose through the hose retainer, fit the showerhead to the hose and finally place it in the showerhead holder,
Рекомендации по теме
Комментарии
Автор

It baffles me as to why shower manufacturers can't get together and agree on a universal shower footprint. I'd settle for a manufacturer using the same footprint for all of their own showers. It's all very well being able to swivel water and electrical cables but the biggest problem is drilling new screw holes. I've seen gas pipes and other electrical cables running behind a shower unit. Personally if the screw holes aren't an exact match then it's tiles off. Those tiles may no longer be available. I think the manufacturer that standardizes shower footprints will save customers money and make it easier for installers.

paulplumb
Автор

Best video I have seen on fixing a shower

brianwitton
Автор

Great video. Let's hope it's as easy as it looks; this will be my first attempt at fitting a shower . . .

treestalktoo
Автор

Well, a few weeks back I took out an old Gainsborough shower and installed a T80Z fast fit. Had to move the electric cable to a new hole in the tiling, using a special tile drill bit. New case fixing holes as well. Otherwise pretty good. Needing a new gate valve in the airing cupboard, not a fault of the T80Z, challenged my compression joint skills but I managed.

kumarpeirson
Автор

New shower (triton Martinique) was stuck in its box for two weeks because I 👍😎👍😎👍👌didn't know how to get the nut and olive on, sorted the new shower straight away after seeing this video....thanks a

wiganer
Автор

Just removed our old Aqualisa as it had given up, replaced it with this and it was basically a straight swap, no dramas, one thing I don't understand though is the power indicator light stays on even when not in use? Unless you isolate it at the pull cord of coarse.

jimtinamx
Автор

Probably the worst electric showers I've ever worked on, this product is better put in a rocket and sent into outer space

berkayultraslan
Автор

that bloody bottom screw can be a night mare when water is fed from the bottom .

anthony
Автор

Just had one of these fitted but the highest setting is luke warm water at best. Any ideas what can be done?

Lorfarius
Автор

If you don't push the plastic wall plugs behind the tiles, you're liable to crack the tiles as you tighten the screws.

mikerichardson
Автор

Hi on shower were water comes out there a small like blow pipe water comes out how do you stop it thank you

philippope
Автор

Fit an oten olef - the self tightening screw. That's what I've heard about 2:39 and can't hear it the right way. So, don't know what should I buy :(.

screen-protector
Автор

Always makes me laugh when they say "It's as easy as that", doesn't always work that way. I noticed the compression elbow had enough slack on it to pull it out a bit to enable the nut to be loosened off to turn it to the left, if you didn't have any play you might struggle to undo it

davidjeffreys
Автор

What type of compression elbow is that where you can adjust the rotation????

shawnmills
Автор

Is the nut and olive for the water inlet a part of the supplied shower package?. I am just a little concerned about this connection. Normally olives compress or 'dig into' a hard copper pipe to provide the water seal. Here the olive digs into the soft plastic. Seems to me that if that first connection attempt leaks, then you've written off the entire unit, as you'd never to get it to seal properly on the 2nd attempt. Are you allowed to fit JG Speedfit plastic push fit connectors instead?.

peter-xnxu
Автор

Thought I might buy as fast fit but my inlet elbow is soldered vertical.😢

philtowle
Автор

Why on earth is the long screw on the rail slotted? It’s 2018!

mrbadger
Автор

Ive just had this exact shower fitted less then a week ago and its constantly dripping?

Charlie.
Автор

I have a Triton Ivory 4 . 9.5kw keeps going hot and cold, what is the best replacement model ?

patrickkeefe
Автор

So took out a screw that holds the can, one that goes in to plastic.
Put in back and its like on a spring, it won't go fully in and tries to come out.
Any thoughts, I'm thinking air trapped in the hole
There's no water or grease in there

somethingelse