How to Replace Front Lower Ball Joint 2007-2013 Chevy Silverado 1500

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This video shows you how to install new, quality TRQ ball joints on your 2007-2013 Chevy Silverado 1500. Car and truck suspensions combine a number of moving parts for safe and stable handling. The ball joint is the crucial moving component that ties those parts together. The ball-in-socket joint can wear out and loosen over time. Or, the rubber protective boot can tear, allowing contaminants to seize the joint. Bad ball joints are a common failure point on vehicle inspections because they lead to unsafe driving conditions. Fortunately, they are relatively easy to replace with the right know-how.

This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2008 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2009 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2011 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2013 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

Tools you will need:
• 18mm Wrench
• 24mm Wrench
• 24mm Socket
• Ball Joint Press
• Pickle Fork
• Snap Ring Pliers
• T30 Socket
• Bungee Cord
• Complete Hex Socket Set
• Magnet - Extendable
• Pole Jack

⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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√ Watch the Video
√ Do it Yourself
√ Save Money

TRQ
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Where'd you find this truck? The bottom of the ocean... holy rust

zachfitzgerald
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18mm top ball joint
21mm socket for tie rod
24mm socket bottom ball joint
Need pickle fork to seperate if rusted

atlanticyak
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The bleeder on the caliper is completely gone! Great demo equipment and realistic in that way. Must have been a NE truck, Michigan comes to mind.

Notaslave
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I’m sure glad i don’t live up North, i wrench for a living in Ar., never seen a vehicle this rusted

J.R.AirPiX
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Nice video man, good detail and to the point. Well spoken
Master ICAR REP & ASE instructor Virginia. For once, I'm impressed by a video.

chuckaaron
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The lower ball joint can be driven out carefully with a hammer once you use the chisel to fold over those divots...

wadeshull
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It's nice having a 2wd, because i don't have to loosen the upper control arm alignment bolts or have to wrestle with the axle shaft or remove the tie rod end. It makes a shorter job and less alignment issues. But I always get my alignment done at Pep Boys, and thry have a Lifetime Alignment deal, so no matter how many times i work on my front end suspension parts, i just take it there and they make it ride nice and straight.

jmackinjersey
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This can be useful for earlier model as my 2001 has the exact same oem lower ball joint.

Maswan._.
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Broken 2 pickle forks on my bottom ball joint and it is still stuck on there

owenouthwaite
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Great video, just wondering how many hrs would it take a decent mechanic to do both lower front ball joints

canucks
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is it ok to grease new ball joint before re-pressing it back into place?

ManuelGarcia-kxbc
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Is the process the same for a Tahoe of the same year?

jibbymcbeet
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“Just gonna give this a little tap here…” swings with the might of Zeus

kingzero
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Nice video. You didn't mention a front end alignment after replacing the ball joint(s).

davemilster
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Excellent job
Thanks for your help a lot

blasgutierrez
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Do you have a part number for the wheel bearing dust cap at t=13:30?

junkname
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Can't read the size of the tool that fit over the bottom ball joint so you can press it in. Thanks. The AC Delco ball joint have a non removal able grease boot. Thanks for all your videos too.

ScoutD
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Love watching these vids where it all juuust cooomes apart…(ha). couldn’t get mine out.... maxed out my air impact with the press tool, borrowed a new dewalt, made sure it had a fresh battery still nothing, put cheater pipe on my 1/2” ratchet till I was afraid of breaking it, (ya I know, where’s my break over) let it soak with penetrating oil for a day, heated the area to about 250* afraid to go hotter, beat the cr*p out of it, finally chiseled inward divots all the way around and used a spacer that pushed on the outer ring (that I had just put divots in) instead of the center and it moved then.. oh and then when I went to install the new one I realized that for mine (2500) you have to have pieces that are in the companion set that you get from HF

jims
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Should there be little to no gap between the snap ring and the top of the lower control arm?

bucketofsteam