Why Your Lower Traps are Key for Climbing Safely (and How to Train Them)

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// TIMESTAMPS //
Intro (00:00)
Video Overview (00:27)
Part 1: Anatomy & Function of the Lower Trap (00:49)
What happens if you have weak lower traps? (03:05)
Part 2: How to Test for Weak Lower Traps (03:26)
Part 3: How to Strengthen the Lower Traps (06:42)
How to Incorporate these Into Your Training (08:41)
Part 4: Proper Lower Trap Engagment on the Wall (09:44)
Tip: How to Avoid Shoulder/Neck Pain (11:03)
Conclusion (11:35)

// SHOW NOTES //
Introduction

I’ve said it once, I’ve said it twice, Heck, I’ve said it a bunch of times on the anatomy of the climb videos: “here’s a good reason to train your lower traps” and yet, we don’t have a video for you about the lower trap! Well not anymore! It’s time to get low, and trap ourselves.

In this video, we will cover the function of the lower trap from both a biomechanical and climbing perspective. We will also provide two basic tests you can do yourself to see if strengthening the lower traps is something you need to be concerned about in the first place, and then we’ll talk about how to properly train the lower trap on and off the wall. So let’s get to it!

ROLE OF THE LOWER TRAP IN CLIMBING

Essentially, the lower trap helps with…. Everything! It’s most important role is when the shoulder is overhead but it plays a role throughout our motions. It is helpful when pulling hard in the cave, or when reaching way above you for that next hold. It’s even helpful when dynoing for that glory jug. If you haven’t watched our “Anatomy of the Climb” series yet, check them out! You’ll notice the lower trap comes up as a topic of discussion in basically every video. To better understand how it specifically helps with our climbing, let’s check out it’s biomechanical function.

BIOMECHANICAL FUNCTION OF LOWER TRAP

The lower trapezius has a few important functions in our biomechanics.

The lower trapezius assists with upward rotation of the scapula. As we raise our arm up, the scapula has to move with it. The upper trapezius helps create the rotation we need so that the humerus and scapula maintain a good position with one another.

Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:

// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.

// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //

// CREATORS & PRODUCERS //
Jason Hooper (PT, DPT, OCS, SCS)
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#lowertraps #climbingtraining #physicaltherapy

[MrKittiemoo]

This is the most underrated climbing channel, we love you Hooper!

[NWRinehart]

I've got to say, this is one of my favorite videos you guys have done. Specifically, I like that you incorporated how to test for weakness, which I know you've done in previous videos. I also SUPER appreciated Part 4: Proper Lower Trap Engagement on the Wall. It's awesome to see a PT talking about specific muscle groups, how they apply to climbing technique, and then a physical demonstration of how they apply. It felt like a more targeted Anatomy of the Climb.

[potatoeggplant]

new subscriber, I'm so grateful to you guys for this PT centric climbing channel. I was struggling with pain in my neck and your vids are a huge resource for exercises that keep us healthy. I mean, that's the ultimate project, right? Maintain health to keep doing the things we love. Thank you for strengthening our foundation, from the ground

[peterpham]

Hahhaha "those of you without friends". This video was too real

[evankimber]

Youre my hero. I was filming myself yesterday and noticed my bag is hugely imbalanced this nailed exactly why and how to fix it. Hopefully this reduces my plaguing rotator cuff issues and back issues.

[jpblanchard]

Hi Hooper! Recently been identifying a weakness of mine to be getting in and out of small boxes. It would be great to see a video about this and what muscles are important for it.

[axeus]

I started watching this channel to slowly amass a vast wealth of training knowledge for when I start trying to compete and train properly and what I've essentially learnt is that face pulls fix everything xD

[MrDziuka]

Great video! Training lower traps is must for climbers but not only for climbers. I have been doing it for quite long time and it changed my life. No more shoulder pain, better posture. Highly recommended.

[houkongzhuanti]

I feel compelled to notify that the title is missing a fundamental part, certainly from an editing oversight: Why LOWER TRAPS AND FRIENDS are Important for Climbers & How to Train Them (+ 2 STRENGTH TESTS and multiple -failed- friendship tests )

[vanillavonchivalry]

You are good stuff. Your channel will start taking off more and more. Love your videos!

[johngraham]

The "quadruped shoulder flexion with opposite arm" exercise here is also well-known in lifting & bodyweight fitness communities as the "trap 3 raise". It's commonly done standing but bent over a bench, and with an emphasis on scapular retraction and depression to activate the lower trapezius maximally.

[slothvibes]

Awesome content! Perfect timing for focusing on fixing my shoulders! Found your channel and love soaking up the knowledge

[toktassarna]

Thanks, this will probably help with my pull ups too, cause I really failed the test (the one without friend :'( )

[murillomr]

It’s so so informative, and so amazing, well done! Thank you

[thomasstegen]

I had a rotator cuff injury and did a lot of strengthening of them. They then started to get very stiff when I was moving from a overhead position.

I started stretching them and strengthening them more. No luck.

Then I thought, maybe they are getting too strong for the other scapula muscles?

I started doing the D2 with cables and it immediately got better and the stiffness was gone in a month.

Care for the lower trap people :)

[nicolasburkhard]

Heck, I've also said it a bunch of times - this channel needs more subscribers!

[jacobjenkins]

As someone paranoid about getting injuries I appreciate this channel

[yileiyilei]

One big thing to note with the face pull exercise is to keep the shoulders down ( no shrug). I find that very challenging (I also have limited mobility in my shoulders)

[thrillhouse]

3:21 "Being bad at climbing" 😂

[ritchie]

Thank you, I have a knot just to the left and center of my right shoulder blade. I have been trying to stretch it with a pole behind my back, and I am so tight, so I did your test and my arms come off the wall. The knot is painful. Thank you again from an (old guy lone wolf):)