Setting up the Epax E10 3D Printer

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Welcome to Monocure 3D Protips. Today, we are excited to show you our first XL printer unboxing! Check out the very cool Epax E10 4K MSLA 3D Printer.
Meet John, Monocure3d's PrintLab Technician, as he walks you through how to set up and print with the Epax E10. He will be printing with our new pro resin specifically developed for your XL 3D prints, introducing BIGVAT™ Resin. This new resin was specially developed for printing large scale models on both colour and Monochrome LCD MSLA printers. It has been engineered to achieve the highest level of details possible and features enhanced build plate adhesion. Enjoy no more pigment settling or separation during the Print!

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.::TIMESTAMPS::.
00:16 Unboxing
03:16 Printer's Specifications
04:56 Inspecting the Printer
07:28 Homing and Levelling the Build Plate
09:40 Menu Overview
12:02 Chitubox Settings and Slicing
14:01 Launching the Print
17:21 Printed Model
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.::PRODUCTS::.
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::LINKS::.
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.::SOCIAL MEDIAS::.
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.::MUSIC::.
Track: Y&V - Lune - NCS Release
Music provided by NoCopyrigthSounds.

Music: Perception by Bensound
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When I go to fill the vat on my E-10, I home first. That way you can fill the vat to the top and not have to worry about overflow. Great video guys!

HeroicDimensions
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Epax levels the beds in the factory. My E6 didn't need leveling, it worked perfectly out of the box.

DJapan
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A hot air gun is also good for getting rid of the bubbles. I also use one of those magnetic mixers to stir the resin. This does not introduce bubbles like shaking does. I just received mine and it is my first mono printer.

clutch
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Thank you, the leveling piece helped me about the zero in doesn't work.

dwaynefong
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wait...so it comes stock, with a vat that will work for an upgraded 10.1? will the you need to get a bigger build plate later?

Reiku
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Can the non-used resin be pour back in for storage?

HyperspeedMedia
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Is that really all you guys did to level the bed? I have a bunch of Photons and I always need to level it with a piece of paper that pulls out perfectly even. Tried doing that with my two new E10s and can't get either to do the same. They just won't stay "level". Is this method not necessary with the E10?

jean-lucstrolsee
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always looking for videos on how to 3D resin print dimensionally accurate parts

dumbcat
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Thank you for going threw all the funktions becaue my printer got stock on Chinese and video help me get out of it

dwainmorris
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I was dead set on getting this, even though as I'm in AUS it's very expensive (1, 324.73 via Amazon).
However, after reviewing all of your videos on the 4K Mono Printers and reading the comments, It looks like your favorite is the ANYCUBIC Mono X, which I could get for 1, 081.69.
The main reason I was wanting the Epax E10 was I wanted the largest build size so I could do larger models without having to print too many pieces. So being able to upgrade to the 5K larger build size was a big draw for me. That said I've never done 3d printing before, so I'm not really sure if the larger build size is a large enough difference to make a difference.
And now I'm really concerned hearing that you have had problems with the plastic build plate with difficult prints, as I would imagine larger 5K prints would have even more problems...

dmaikibujin
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Hi which do you recommend Elegoo Saturn or Epax E10

DvjAurelioHdez
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hello, can you please tell me something about dimensional accuracy?...is 20mm exactly 20mm when printed? what's the real tolerance?..thanks

francescorichichi
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On the contrary, the Set Z=0 does indeed do something. You cant use it until you hit the Home button and then manually use the Up and Down buttons to move the build plate. The message he highlights in this video appears because you hadn't made any actual adjustments to your existing home screen setting. Be very careful when you manually move the plate up and down. For example, don't hit the Down button when your plate is all the way down and the height option is set to 10MM as this will force the plate down into your screen. Use the 0.1 and 1MM settings to fine-tune your settings accordingly. Once you get it set to where you want it, you then can hit this button and will give you the option to Confirm your new settings...

scottparker
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The e10 is so much quieter than the x10. Damn it. I paid the premium and I get stuck with the noise

ramonluquin
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This is somewhat helpful. I just wish they would have taken more time in explaining some of the settings and terms.

scottparker
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New to 3D printing, especially Resin. I have followed the steps in this video for setup, print head is leveled, and I recently just flashed the latest firmware. The issue I am having is that I am getting alot of curing outside of the print area during prints leading me to believe I have a flickering issue even after the new software release. I am printing for jigs and harder objects so I am using the Epax hard and tough as well as the Esun hard tough resins. I have printed several items with various degrees of failure. Epax Hard and tough is base about 25 seconds, 2.5 for layer and the 28 for esun with 8 second layers. Can anyone help troubleshoot the excess cure in the vat that is ruining prints?

chadjones
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WhamBam coming for these bad boys Charlie?

beardymcwhisky
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Why are all 3D printing channels so careful with the print plate? scraping it will just increase the adhesion of the bottom layers... it doesn't damage anything - as you actually say yourself at about 18:00

Vizeroy
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10:00 The "Set Zed to Zero is non-functional". No it isn't. You just don't know how to use it. You set it to home, make your adjustments, then set zed to zero. When you do it right, it has you confirm the set zed to zero, instead of telling you to set home first.

charliewaters