Adam Ondra #38: What is the best body type for climbing?

ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA

What is the best body type for climbing? Tall or short? Skinny or muscular?
We dig into this a little bit more and try to answer it in the new episode.

Credits:

Story by
ADAM ONDRA

Directed by
LACO KORBEL

Camera
PAVEL KLEMENT

Archive Footage
POSING PRODUCTIONS
VOJTĚCH LIČKO
JAKUB FABIAN
ADAM ONDRA ARCHIVE

Post Production
ADAM LIGOCKI

Production
JAKUB PÍNA

Executive Producer
PAVEL BLAŽEK

© 2019 AO Production s.r.o.

#climbing #bodytype #secret #anatomy #sport #apeindex #bouldering #speed #olympics

[HeretiCflow]

I've recently started bouldering and I can tell you one thing: Fat with T-Rex arms is not it!

[noohairdontcare]

The difference in his physical appearance between just standing there and flexing on a route is astonishing

[definitelynotclickbait]

"I wasn't very powerful"
proceeds to climb 9a

[haydennichole]

“The height is mostly just my long neck, ” I was not expecting that. In short...we have our answer.

[AlbertMXG]

"I did my first 8b+ at the age of 11".... Ok bye

[themeatpopsicle]

Good to know Adam has been yelling on hard moves since he was like, 10

[santiagosalcedo]

After 8 min.... Yes, I do have a long neck.

[christophh]

To be fair if you had a normal neck you would score high on the ape index...

[RProductionMai]

Wow I was fascinated that you climbed your first 8b+ when you were 11 years old. Really strong. Keep the series going, love these type of climbing videos

[stephantom]

I was worried this video might be depressing (I’m 5’6” with a -3 ape index) but turns out it was inspiring. There really are advantages and disadvantages for so many body types and features, and it’s all about finding ways to work with the body you have. I’ve heard this from other climbers before but it’s great to have another breakdown of the ways this is true from such a knowledgeable source. Thanks for the video!

[DustyGus]

I learned some things about myself.
1. I have good climbing hands
2. Being short isn't so bad. (I'm 5'3")
3. Short limbs aren't so bad, either
4. This is the ideal male body. You may not like it, but this is what peak male performance looks like.

[suchasreallife]

Rumor has it Adam wears the same size climbing shoes as when he first started climbing

[darkexcalibur]

This made me feel better about being a short climber. Thanks Adam!

[Sean-mciq]

For such a skinny guy, his fingers are incredibly thick

[S.C.-wohq]

"What's the best body type for climbing?"
Adam: "Yes."

[MobscastBlackOut]

I love how he says his grip strength hasn't increased since he was 7 as he can hang for about the same time.
If the average seven year old weighs about 50 lbs and he could hang for X seconds at that weight he wouldn't be able to hang at the average adult weight of 196 lbs what so ever.
Now that he is an adult and can hang for X seconds at this weight is a giant strength increase compared to before as he is technically 4x stronger.

[farvertex]

Thank you for bringing so much culture, interest and excitement to the climbing game.

[bobthemadmonkey]

the first look at those fingers made me physically recoil

[uremawifenowdave]

Excellent video introducing a complex subject.

[itsclements]

This reminds me of a problem, I did with my dad a while back. The start meant that u had to push yourself into the wall and under a overhang. My dad struggled with it because he was really squashed and couldn't find space to reach with hi arms whereas I am samller so I found it easier to get under that overhang and then move enough to shift my weight and reach the next boulder. This just goes to show that u don't have to be tall and strong and have a wide arm span to do boulders easily and it's about figuring out how to use ur body as an advantage.