*BIKE MECHANIC TESTS* INSTAGRAM DISC BRAKE CALIPER ALIGNMENT TOOL (NO MORE RUBBING DISCS?!?)

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[GCPerformance]

Let me know if there are any other products your curious if work or not down below? I would love to do more tests!!

[croccofanto]

just a little pointer here in what i see you doing is that you loosen both bolts, squeeze the break and continue to tighten just the one bolt all the way tight. Now whats happening here is that the caliper moves slightly wen tightening the bolt. If you instead just lightly lightly alternate tighten the bolts you will find that the tool works much better, even without the tool it will work much better.

[xaein]

I have 4 of those, without brands, works every time. You need to loosen the bolts more, some times you even need to find the rubbing section and use the tool there, but they definitely make aligning disc brake way way more easier, one of the best tool imo. And they definitely doesn't cost 20usd, you been ripped off.

[danielleiva]

That tool literally cost 1 dollar in Aliexpress hahaha

[manueldeubler]

I personally also like to give the pistons a good clean and lube before aligning the brake pads. The pistons can et really dirty with all the brake dust which can result in 'sticky pistons' i. e. pistons that don't move symmetrically.

[hotcakes]

A good tip I find also is to use your phone light to shine up through through the pads/calliper. It's a quick way of determining the reason for the rub which in most cases is a bent or warped rotor.

I love my disc brake bikes but do find the tolerances are miniscule. I just wish SRAM, Shimano etc could find a way to adjust the hydraulic callipers with an allen key similar to the cable actuated callipers you see on low end bikes

[jtburn]

Same as several comments on here. I loosen the bolts completely so they can float freely. It has worked every time for me. I used to get super frustrated but that is a thing of the past.

[BrianRPaterson]

I have have a few of these, and have given a few to friends. So long as you push back the pistons first, then puf in the pads, they save me loads of time.
Then again, I paid about buck a piece.

[AllGrogg]

It is a 1 to 5 dollar shim, pretty simple and a great thing to have especially with single sided mechanical calipers.
With all hydraulic and double action mechanical getting it centered means centered, with a single sided caliper you want it as close as possible on the static piston with the moving piston biting where you need it for the lever. For users of cheaper mechanical calipers, a little shim like this is perhaps more helpful. Eyeballing .3 mm clearance on one side and .6 on the other is trickier than .5mm equally on both. Also, on the low end of disc brakes, a shim can be used as a feeler gauge to check if it is time to move the static side closer to the rotor. Light pressure on lever and advance the static pad until disk is not deflecting, done.

[MH-eubt]

I use feeler gauge. 0.20mm both side and get result.

[richroberts]

I have found for all of the good points I always have to use that tool to bend tweak rotors. Point I do it is from sighting down pads to rotor clearance and seeing where making contact. I usually tweak ever so slightly. Bottom line have never mounted anyones discs that ran true simply bolted up. Have also used say Jagwire shims to help align. Presume new Shimano DA with more clearance eliminates a lot of this clearance contact issues.

[philipdavies]

Used the tool today……. Worked first time after 👍😀😀

[aaaaea]

8:03 that bit there just gained ya a sub 😂😂😂

[thedronescene]

To much trouble.
Rim brakes is the way to go! Here in Florida we do not need disc.

[henrikolsson]

I used one of those on my SL7 with the aero rotors, the tool scratch the rotor.

[paulstuart]

I had the problem with my Ultegra rotors. I used a caliper alignment tool and it didn't work. Then I realized what the problem is. The hydraulic hose from the fork leg causes a twisting force at the caliper body. When you squeeze the pads against the rotor it can't overcome the force of the hose and so it temporarily distorts the rotor. Hence when you tighten the bolts and check it still rubs. The only solution is to manually set the caliper visually.

[garyderoy]

Those tools don't work unless one of the pistons is really screwed up, and even then it's doubtful. Think about what it's doing. You're putting the same extra padding on each side of the rotor, so the caliper should center at the same spot with or without the tool. The reason it works sometimes is because you're adjusting it at a different spot on the rotor after spinning the wheel. If it doesn't center on your 1st attempt without the tool but it does center on your 2nd attempt with the tool, it would have centered on the 2nd attempt without it also.
In most cases the problem is a very tiny warp in the rotor. You might not be able to see it, but you can hear it and it is there. If it's small enough and you center the caliper over that warp (trial and error) it may put the caliper in a spot where it doesn't rub anywhere on the spinning rotor. The tool, a piece of folded paper or any of those tricks won't work unless, maybe, you've got a seriously screwed up piston, and then that's something that you should clean and free up.

[thompson]

Loosen bottom bolt, spin wheel, grab lever, tighten bolt. That little rub goes away when you heat the brakes up. Am I nuts lol?

[SkibidiSigmaAura]

Try it without sqeezing the brakes when tightning, chances are the pads don't come out evenly and causing it to miss align. I usually do it with a piece of thick paper and it works great.

[richardlopez]

I ordered some pads off of Amazon and an alignment tool came with the pads although the one I have is longer and shaped like the rotor.