APPLYING RUSTPROOFING / UNDERCOATING TO YOUR VEHICLE - THIS IS WHAT I DO AND USE .

HOW I REPAIRED A FUEL LINE LEAK ON MY SILVERADO

Today I share my experience with applying undercoating / rustproofing to your vehicle . I believe you should protect the undercarriage components that cost a fortune to repair but for the body and the rest in my opinion it's totally unnecessary to pay to have it sprayed yearly. You do as you like this is just my observation. Cheers !!!

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[JimBobSeeker]

Thank you Steve for your extremely well made and informative video!

[builtrodewreckedit]

Ford's don't normally rust out... There usually parked in the mechanics shop with the hood up all winter.

[Ballen]

Rob, I gave my grandson my 2004 F-150 and he still drives it with almost 200, 000 miles on it. Of course, there is no rust on the vehicle at all because I live in Texas. The value of the truck is relatively high because it looks and drives almost like a new truck and its usefulness has been maintained. My good friend has a 2005 F-350 with 340, 000 miles on it and it is still going strong just completing a 5, 000 mile roadtrip from Houston to Chicago to Salt Lake City to San Francisco to LA and back to Houston on I-10. It is still a great truck and looks vey good. So, vehicles that are 18 years old and not subject to salted roads are extremely valuable because they are still useful. Nothing like the rust buckets I've seen on Youtube...

[stanleykania]

Rust-Oleum paint everything then use used oil thinned with Diesel.. touch up every spring with rust converter.. re-oil every winter.. 2012 rust free.. great video..

[chrisgraham]

Thanks for realistic assessment of undercoating. If you buy and drive used vehicles as I do, look around at all the other same vehicle models on the road and you can soon identify the 4 to 6 areas on your vehicle where rust will eventually appear. Every make and model has design flaws, whether by design or intentional, that have cavities that tend to collect dirt, leaves and salt and are the areas that never quite dry out. They hold moisture, rust and eat their way to the outside of the body. Ever notice a 60 years old vehicle that has been abandoned in a field to rot, but certain areas of the vehicle (roof, trunk, side panels..etc.) have never rusted and remain solid steel? Those are the areas of that particular vehicle that shed water and moisture well and will not rust for a hundred years. When you identify the areas of your particular vehicle ( like Steve's cab corners on the Suburban), clean them out and concentrate your efforts on those areas to rust proof those areas and protect them. 20 years later, everyone who owns the same vehicle as you will be wondering how the hell your vehicle isn't rotted out like theirs.

[AverageHouseHusband]

Your vehicles are practically new... I'm driving 3 Mercedes from 87-90 I'm right up by the Canadian border in NY where they salt the roads like I salt my food (generously). Use anything lanolin based and cheap by the gallon it will do the job. Get your own spray kit it's worth it. Pull those frame plugs and coat inside anywhere water might collect.

[mattm]

I’ve been undercoating my vehicles with krown for well over 15 years I have a 03 Tahoe z71 with zero rust underneath. I’ve done it yearly and it shows I went to ace rustproofing when I first got the truck. All original brake lines fuel lines tranny lines everything zero rust driven every winter

[WhalerGA]

The undercarriage and frame of a Ford F-150 is not aluminum, nor is it galvanized steel.

[murph]

the best rustproofing thing i have found is to just move to florida, my 2012 Cadillac looks brand new

[PAPATexas]

Good job and info Steve, could save people some money. Down here we don't need to do this. I would like to see under a vehicle that didn't prep like you did, would be interesting comparison. I bought my truck in 2006.

[ozzstars_cars]

Rust check reminds me a lot of Fluid Film. The stuff works, I haven't had a spec of rust on my hands since using it.

[whatnextsunshine]

Welcome back! Well, I am not living anywhere where they put on the salt but the sea that I live by... and the air makes it all salty. Like the 'new' more high energy style. Makes it even more (that even possible, yes it is) ... fun to watch! :-)) Cheers, Sunshine

[acbent]

I do all my personal vehicles at our school shop. We also do complete rustproofing for 'customers'. $30.00 will get you a basic undercoating with an oil-based gel like Proform which includes the interior of the frame rails, or unibody rails/crevices. For $60.00, we'll do in all doors, hood, trunk, engine bay, rockers (drilling if we can't access through the drain holes), wheelhouses, folded seams, control arms, struts, fuel, brake and A/C lines (if rear A/C equipped). For all the aforementioned 'interior' panels, we use used ATF ( I have gallons of used ATF). If the customer wants to bring other products like Fluid Film we'll spray that too. When I rustproof my own vehicles, I dump atf (1/2 a quart or so into the rocker panels with the car facing up hill for a bit and then down hill. I collect the dripping in buckets or a long piece of eavestrough directed into a bucket. I often use RustCheck red and green for touchups.

I think that Krown products are great for interior panels, but not thick enough for exterior (underbody) applications. I will often soak the interior of my unibody rails with a thin product ATF or RustCheck red for creeping into seams/displacing moisture (which by the way is completely legit), then follow up with the thicker stuff (RustCheck Coat and Protect or Proform). Before I started doing this myself - maybe 15 years ago - I had it done annually by RustCheck. Most times, the application was lacking. I have an endoscope and have seen many dry rocker panel cavities after a shop has applied rustproofing.

I believe that any product - motor oil (used or new), ATF, RustCheck, Krown, Corrosion Free etc will all work perfectly - succeed at separating metal from oxygen - well so long as they are actually thoroughly applied. No shop that wants your car in and out in an hour will be able to accomplish this.

I firmly believe that this should be done annually. Nothing you put under a vehicle is going to last. Rustproofing compounds need to go to and stay where water collects. That said, on my two Toyotas and Kia van, each year, I basically do a touch up - a light spray to 're-wet' what's left from before and re-do the rails, control arms, doors, inner panels etc. I usually do this twice a year. And, I do it to any brand new - off the lot - cars I buy as well as used ones.

[RustyGlovebox]

We will have to pay more attention to treating vehicles may down here in Texas. They started using salt brine on the roads and that stuff is horrible on metal and wiring. Great topic Steve

[SavagemanFilms]

I spray my 08 Tacoma with fluid film before every winter. There is some spots it seems like it wears off but generally it does pretty good. I use about a half gallon a year spraying it down and a gallon only cost around $40.

[EXOVCDS]

Good advice... I might just do this the next time I change my oil / while the car is up on the hoist.

[shane]

I was a tech and preferred to work on rustproofed vehicles. Significantly less seized bolts\nuts, and don't have to take the torch out every time. We have gloves and a hat, so I don't mind the slime.

[ourkid]

Revisited this video after a couple years. That coat and protect is so much more expensive than it used to be! I think a few years back Crappy Tire used to have this on sale for 6.99 a can or something? Managed to get a few cans for 9.99 at Princess Auto recently which isn't too bad. I guess you just have to snap up a few cans when you catch em on sale because they're like 12 or 14 bucks a can now. I did notice Princess Auto has the bulk 4L containers of Coat and Protect on sale for 50-ish every now and then but you'd need an undercoating gun to spray it, I think.

[themechanic]

I agree with you...ain't nobody drilling holes in my car and those services are expensive for something that washes up. I might have to try out that chain lube ..

[gikaradi]

what about lithium grease ?could it do the job? And what when the car is used in regions with dirt sand, will it stick somehow and do harm or after the the appliance of the lubes should we "polish" the car ?Just some thoughts.What SteveRob says makes perfectly sense