So close to death rappelling!

There are so many things that make this incident so close to someone getting seriously hurt. What are a few things you would change?

#rappelling #climbing #rockclimbing

[dannyboy_]

The only good thing is that nobody died on that top.

[annaalewine]

I dont think youtube comments can be long enough for me to list all the things i would change

[benlazar]

I’d say they’d need to readjust the anchor and its master point so that it doesn’t risk sliding over that notch/arete. I would move the master point over the edge and on the other side of the notch.

[elduderino_dude_hisdudeshi]

Looks good to me! As a matter of fact I’m gonna go ahead and bring these sweet new tactics on my next trip to Pilot.

[thinksmart-life]

They should have rappelled closer to the anchor on the left. They didn’t account for the wall that was closest to the anchor.

[barneyadams]

There's not enough space here to write it all

[mr.merica]

Master point wasnt secured for slippage.
No helmet on the tethered guy.
Good video on how the instructor tether can save your life.

[krescue]

Maybe they should hire a certified guide???

[ikarosdream]

First change made wouldve been the guides hahaha

[timonix]

let's first establish the best possible interpretation as possible.

Wherever they are going they felt like they could not get to it if they rappelled in the corner and had to go out on the arete. Maybe there is a hard to reach bolted belay half way down? who knows. But you don't always get to choose where you rappel. So if that's the case I would try to move the master point. Or at least redirect the rope somewhere closer to the edge.

If I could choose, I would rappel to the left instead. about where they ended up after falling.

He seems to be trying to have him on a belay from above. Maybe as a backup? Sure go a head. Not inherently dangerous. Maybe unnecessary. But if I were to, I would have it redirected through the anchor. As it is now all the forces from the rappeler would go directly into my harness and that's enough to ragdoll me around easily. If it's redirected all the forces on my harness would go towards the anchor. way more predictable and easier to handle.

Would I stand at the edge? Maybe, I do it all the time when belaying from above. Would I stand at the edge coaching someone new to get down? absolutely.

[simonsimon]

A simple directional on the far side of the rap line would have worked.

[vlaaady]

What was hit tether? I hope it was a dynamic rope.

[Phoenixhunter]

Rappell in the direction of pull. Don’t stand in the pathway of the rappeler. Shorter tether for the person standing in the way.

[nathanwilson]

Good idea with the rope pad and backup line for the ledge. Not much else.

[lukegaming]

Christ what an example of overcomplicating an simple concept

[Melchiwhip]

I have no idea wtf are the doing... ping pong?

[calimon]

The rappeler needs to keep both hands on the breaking end of the rope.

[manny]

How about he doesnt put the rope on his foot

[dennislydon]

How bout take a nice hike on a safe trail and call it a day .... unless you are an Army ranger there is no need to be rappelling off steep jagged rockface

[mitchellbaker]

Actually the fall suggests the anchor itself was bomber, and the things that went wrong can heaven forbid just be a learning opportunity for people acting in good faith, but glad to see you've been able to monetise the misfortune of others. Hope you feel good about that.