My second most commonly used rappel extension

[erikpeterson]

Good system and certainly a popular one, and one I used frequently in my early climbing days. Only problem with this is that there will be a point during rappelling when the system is not redundant. As you showed you can fold the extension back to your belay loop to make it redundant, but how then will you anchor yourself? Same loop as the ATC is on? Defeats the purpose of having two clip in points.

If anchored at the top of a pitch by the single end loop, then as soon as the rope is untied to feed for rappel there is only one supporting strand in the system. Only once the climber is on rappel and the clip is folded back to the belay loop is the system redundant.

Also, at the bottom of a rappel, as soon as the bottom is reached and the climber is off rappel for the next to come down it is no longer redundant. So for the entire time the partner is rappelling and the rope is being reset for the next rappel (if on a multi pitch) the climber is not redundant.

I use the basket hitch with an overhand (which you addressed in another video) since it is inherently redundant and still gives two separate clip in points for an anchor and a rappel device. Also, if necessary, there are two end loops instead of one, which can be used separately to clip into two different bolts at an anchor.

[telestix]

This is why I love my PAS (personal anchor system. You can set this up and keep the ATC away from the backup prusik on my leg. Finally you can set up a beginners rappel set up so all they have to do is unhook the extension from the anchor while you provide a firemans belay from below.

[diesummederteile]

Hi kind of late to ask but i wondered if theres anything wrong if i use an alpine butterfly instead of the overhand knot?

Greetings!

[jacobjfrey]

My wife uses this method predominantly but also never undoes the overhand knot for years so overtime it completely fuses together. Any thoughts/advice whether thats fine to do so? I also worry a bit since its pretty much impossible to inspect whether there's damage inside the knot. Would love hear what you think

[PapP]

Who doesn't own a PAS a this point though?