Alaskan Chainsaw Milling - Tips for First Time Users

Learn from Mr. Erik Granberg, President of Granberg International the tips and tricks to getting the best results from your Alaskan Chainsaw Mill.
*VIDEO RECAP*

1. THREE important things to consider before milling. One, does your chainsaw have enough power? (see bar/power reference chart). Two, ripping chain is necessary! Three, a first cut system to assist in your first cut. (0:35)

2. Inspect log and debark. Check diameter of log vs the cutting width of mill. Is your mill going to make it through the cut? There may be a section that is too wide. This can be trimmed before milling. (2:00)

3. Mount Alaskan Mill onto bar. Adjust to fit bar. Avoid clamping down on the sprocket nose. Tighten all hardware. The clamping bolts for the bar and end bracket require 10-12 pounds of torque. Tighten evenly. All other carriage bolts use 8-10 pounds of tightening torque. Do not over tighten, this only weakens the bolts. (3:15)

4. Tool kit check. (11:07)

5. Safety Equipment. Chaps, gloves, boots, eye and ear protection are required! (11:51)

6. Make sure your wedges are handy! (12:20)

7. Best way to start your second cut. (13:17)

8. Wedging tips while milling. (14:18)

9. What to look, listen and feel for while milling. (14:54)

10. How to exit the cut. To keep the mill from dipping when exiting cut, put a little back pressure on upright handle and support the powerhead. (17:24)

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[X_]

The first cut levelling thing is what I wanted to see

[ejsocci]

I just got mine the other day and I can’t watch this enough at the moment, thanks, I got the 24 inch mill package.

[phreaklulz]

I made my first little live edge today...I have a small chainsaw, so I only did a 12 inch piece. So happy, and so nice being able to turn the logs at my house into something nice.

[aidandevlon]

This is a great video; it really helps me feel a lot more comfortable with such a serious tool in such a new way of using anything. That confidence is important to safety; I tend to not be the "reckless" kind of unsafe, but the anxious kind, where if I am not clear and comfortable with what I'm doing, it's less safe because of stop-start, hesitant, skittish nonsense. I have a tree that took how my roof and some great wood in it that I''m determined to harvest and use on principle. And I have to use this setup because I can't afford many new expensive tools. So thank you, this video is directed exactly at my beginner questions.

[chainsaw_Expert_Chris]

What a fantastic tutorial on using the Alaskan mill! The tips about the ripping chain and the importance of inspecting the log for contamination were super helpful. I also appreciated how you emphasized safety gear—it's so crucial when working with chainsaws! Can't wait to see how the first cut goes; keep up the great work!

[therman]

Haven't used mine yet, but this video explained everything in great detail. Many tips that I am glad I saw. Thank you.

[williamscustomwoodworking]

You gained a lot of respect from me mentioning things other than the ez rail. I have an ezrail and I like it if I need to backpack to the tree. But I could see a 2x8 making fast work of a first cut.

[stevenmiller]

This is clear and thorough, covers all the basics. I mill with a Stihl 051AV w 36" bar and a Stihl 090AV w 48" bar. You have to have power matched to the load (width of cut and density/hardness) of the log. I mostly mill Eastern White Pine and Red & White Oak for timbers 6" x6" - 12" x 16" up to 24' long. I also mill Black Locust for sills, posts and fence posts where rot resistance is important 4" x 6" - 6" x 8". I just bought a Cannon 72" sprocket nose bar for the Stihl 090AV to do some wide slabs. I also have the Granberg Mini Mill with the matching rail sections for edge rips after long wide rips. I need to get a bigger saw than my Stihl 020AV for that. Do everything you can to be efficient setting up the first rip. Save time by having the chocks, supports, wedges/spacers & mallet, peavy & cant hook, mason line, timberlok fasteners and drill/driver all ready, and able to use again and again. Have a clear work area w solid flat ground (as is practical). Use an axe and "spud bar" for bark removal in dirty gravely spots. Keep your chain real sharp. I use a winch at the far end of the log so I'm farthest away from noise and exhaust. Safety first!! I'd never waste my $ on a Chinese saw as someone suggested.

[TheRustyGarageandHomestead]

This was very informative. Thank you for this

[cdawg]

Pulley / winch works great. Put the brake on the chain before you exit the bar from the cut. Dont have that chain in motion when pickin up the mill on the exit. Ladder works great for safety purposes on every cut. Not just the first. Hanging the mill on the ladder rather than holding it on the start of the cut puts you in a less vulnerable position. Also allows a smoother cut especially if the winch is attached.

[mattthompson]

Just got mine today. Can’t wait to start.

[davidblood]

Excellent and necessary video. Thank you Sir!

[BlaiseBrogan]

Great to see the family going strong on the mill. Cheers blaise

[sampletaster]

Great video just shows how much work it really is to saw a log. Could be a multiple day job on a big log.

[ERSUN]

Thats a very good procedure of making saw mill. I hope that thats equipment will be available here in the Philippines.

[KKUSYHamRadioAdventures]

Eric, I had no idea this is what you did for work back in the PVHS soccer days. This looks like a fun process, I always like getting the chainsaw out. Chuck T. Great video explaining the mill.

[jlbathome]

Great tips, good information, the wedges can be used also to scrape the front edge of mill with sawdust built up as you go. Great product, great demonstration

[LauraMiller]

Good info.. thanks!
Going to try to talk my husband into buying me one!

[TELOYSTV]

Nice my boss..👍
Keep safe to your freehand mill 🙂

[susanjames]

Excellent, have some mahogony and Old man pine and Totara I want to get into this week. All green so that's me thanks.