No more 100% LFP Charging for me! @Tesla Travel

What is the best charging strategy for a Tesla LFP battery is it 100% 90% or 80% @Tesla Travel

[nigep]

Hi thanks for watching my video & since making it a year ago I’ve made updates which I say I now charge to 100% at home and superchargers enough to get me to my destination or next charger.
Thanks for watching & take care

[voldar]

There is some truth and misleading info in what is said in the video. The degradation of the battery isn’t given by the range you see at full charge. That’s a number based on an algorithm used by the BMS, based on the lowest and highest voltage of the cells readings (and some other stuff) of a LFP battery. The LFP battery has very low difference in voltage between max and min values. This is why the car needs to be charged to 100%, so that the cells are balanced and the BMS is capable to read the max value. If people drive their LFP cars only a small amount of capacity every day (from 80% to 60% SOC) the BMS will fuckup and no longer will be able to read the Min and Max values correctly. If someone wants to know the capacity loses, he has to charge to 100% and drive the car in one run to 3-5% and note the kWh used. And compare this number with the battery capacity they had in the day one they got the car. It’s important to have this reference number though. This is how the capacity loses are measured, not using a number on the screen given by a BMS algorithm.

[keithabraham]

I have a 2023 M3RWD. I don't need 100% daily. I charge to 100% on Sunday nights. Set it to 80% the next 2 nights. Then on Wednesday nights I set it back to 100%. Then 80% until Sunday. That way, at least twice a week, my BMS is calibrated. I know LFPs can tolerate 100% better but it's still a Lithium battery. I think Tesla doesn't want to confuse people so they just say set it to 100% and be done with it.

I'd say most people won't keep a car long enough to see any serious degradation and Tesla knows that.

[wakeywarrior]

The LFP needs 100% charge to get an accurate reading of its battery. It has a variable buffer, as it’s weakness is it is bad at accurately determining battery capacity. So if it isn’t charged to 100% regularly, the buffer increases to account for inaccuracy. So if you are not charging to 100% your buffer will get bigger and you will get less range when you click on the reading in the car as the buffer has gone up. So by not charging to 100% at home once a week, you will lose range.
You don’t charge to 100% on a Supercharger, even LFP really.
Your reduction may already be caused by the car adding extra buffer. Let it run down to about 5% then charge to 100% and the reading may be different.
Remember, battery degradation is usually quicker at first then slows right down. So it won’t drop as much anyway. So even charging to 100% degradation would be less going forward anyway.
I think you need a rethink. As someone below mentions, don’t worry about it, the article you read isn’t great I don’t think, and for example, doesn’t even mention the variable buffer.

[tjsskier]

I have over 3500 miles on my new 2023 Tesla 3 and keep my car at 100% most of the time on the home charger. It is the same as the first time I charged it 3 months ago….270 miles. I’ve lost nothing so far!

[jasonfranciosa]

The initial "break in" of the battery will loose the most in the shortest time frame, it will then stable off. With LFP cells, you can get 3000-4000 full cycles (100%-0%), so if you are not doing full cycles, it will last more than that. This is over 1 million miles before degradation hits 80% charge left. The main issue is resetting the state of charge gauge.
Tesla's engineers are some of the best in the world, they know what they are doing. Charge to 100% when needed and don't worry about it.

[neopickaze]

Apparently from what I've read LFP batteries do have a bit of a sudden initial drop off but then it calms down a lot. I think the other thing to consider is if not charged to 100% regularly so they understand and calibrate what 100% is how do you know you're actually charging to? I haven't got my LFP Tesla yet and doing the same kind of research, I think I'll fully charge it at least every month.

I do have an Audi e-tron 55 and I've lost 2% of range on that in the last year (13, 000 miles), I think I saw 1.5% fairly quickly and then it's tapered off significantly. (I've been charging to 100% on that every day as it's a lease)

[GBCobber]

It's a little like equalizing a lead acid battery at higher Voltage and low current in order to balance out the cells, which boils off a little fluid in the process. LFP cells have a very flat voltage curve that only starts climbing at the end of change, so they can only be accurately measured when they're above 90% or about 3.5v. Of course the higher you go the more accurate the balancing. 100% is 3.65v, which is 150mv difference across the top 10 %, then over the next 70% down to 3.35v is also about a 150mv drop, with the remaining 20% then dropping off steeply, so you also get a solid read on the bottom, for the little it's worth.

Just check out any LFP charge curve and you'll get the picture and see why in order to balance the strings correctly you need to keep the cells above at least 90% periodically for sufficient time, which will depend on the balancer load limit and battery and use condition.

If I had one, I'd probably go to 95% but give it time to sit there for awhile, or 100% if on the move, maybe once every 5 to10 x 50% charges and more often if running the pack below 20%. The numbers are to paint the picture but they're not far off. It's a shame you can't see the cell voltages like you can on a $100 chinese BMS and simply watch how the balancer works with LFP cells. Maybe in an update one day.

Forgot to mention, an unbalanced pack will also have a reduced capacity, since the capacity of whole pack will be limited by that of the least charged or weakest cell. Once again we have a balancing act. Ain't that life huh?

[saurabhsen_nj]

My M3 RWD mfr Sept/2023 Fremont CA workshop has 1% LFP batt degradation as per Tessie app. I charged 5 times to 100% total 237 kwh at only superchargers during last 1 month of ownership and driven 740 miles. Not sure if this is unusual.

[julianguffogg]

When you were setting the charge, it looked like it was an older non LFP as it had the scale for trip and daily

[putragraphy]

Its not a degradation. Its a bms wandering

[RemoteSpeed]

Keep in mind, besides the the amount you charge, the biggest culprit for degradation would be the rate of charge and discharge, Superchargers pump in a lot of current, so charging at a lower charge rate like home, would extend your battery life.
A lot depends on your battery chemistry.

[raleedy]

It seems like there are two issues: how often you charge to 100%, and how long the car sits at that level. Another unanswered question is, what happens when the BMS incorrectly indicates zero range remaining? I just got a Standard Model 3, LFP battery. My plan is to charge to 100% only just before I am able to use the car to lower the level to at least 90%. When charging to a lower limit, I plan to pay attention to the number of miles driven since the last charge, in addition to looking at the less-than-accurate battery level indicator.

[Techridr]

You will do more damage by no longer charging to 100% since the battery will no longer be able to balance. Also, you can't calculate degradation based on the range indicated since that is calculated partially by your driving habits. Also, the first year or so will show the most degradation and it slows after that. Yes, all batteries will degrade, but the LFP will do so less. You might try what I do with my LFP M3. I typically charge from 30% to 70% because my daily doesn't require too much range. But, about once a week or as much as once every 10 days, I will drive it to below 10% and leave it there a few hours, then slow charge to 100%. I'll do it overnight regulating the rate on the app to arrive at 100% just before I drive. At most, it stays at 100% for 1/2 hour to an hour or so. After 11 months, my degradation is about 2.5%. Remember, balancing your battery must be done after it's down below 10% up to 100%. There are times that after this, you'll see higher range predictions because of the balancing. I know my comment is a year late, but some may find it useful. Also, my previous non-LFP Tesla almost never went over 80%. Only on road trips, otherwise almost never.

[eddiegibson]

My model Y has a Lithium-ion low voltage battery type! How should i charge my car?

[LayneSteighlee]

I charge my LFP 10 100% every single night...but I don't supercharge at all and actually only charge with the mobile connector. So a nice and slow charge rate.

[khoale]

I saw a video somewhere on youtube that the first 10% of battery degrade quickly but after that it is solid stable

[stefyyy]

Its perfectly normal! Tesla will lose biggest % of range in beginning, and then it will stabilize. Its not just Tesla, its every battery type and every modern BEV in market today. They all gonna act similarly. Comment from Jason is accurate!

[ricardophelps]

I would like to know at what V per cell the Tesla BMS is programmed to start balancing? Obviously, it has to be toward the top of the charge curve otherwise the cell voltages are too close together to accurately balance. Personally for LFP I would charge all the time to 80% with an occasional 100% balance charge. In my opinion too much emphasis is put on 'balancing' but remember the cells are all linked together ALL THE TIME so they will naturally balance each other to a certain degree. Also, remember balancing means 'cycling' so the more balancing you do, the more cycling and the quicker degradation.

[stuart]

Thanks for the video, I’m a newbie to my Tesla 3 it’s a SR 2022 model I’m getting now around 259 miles at 100%.
I would like to find out from somewhere what the car would have been from new.