I bet you didn't know this about footwork for climbing!

Most climbers are unaware of the application of pressure through their feet. We know this as we have worked with thousands of climbers over the years in person and remotely.
Your heel position has a huge knock-on effect to the rest of your body. Yes, we have ankle flexion that can combat some of it (i.e. standing on slabs), but most of the time, climbers drop their heels, which pushes their knees and bum away from the wall, putting more weight onto their hands and forearms.
On a positive foothold, you need to push more through the big toe. Shoes are typically designed to aid this, meaning if you lift the heel a little, you will get more pressure through your toe which will lead to more confidence and trust.
As well as this, it will help you activate and engage your core, meaning any drive from your feet will have a positive effect, rather than pushing your bum out from the wall.

Ever found yourself flying miles from the wall when trying a dyno? You probably had low heels and your feet were too front on.

On the flip side, if you're faced with a sloper or smear, then dropping the heel is important to maximize surface area.

Learning to play around d on both types of holds is crucial to furthering your understanding and advancing your movement awareness.

Have fun trying!

Big thanks to @GalenPeterson for the filming and editing and for @movementgyms for allowing us to film in their Baker District gym in Denver.

[kshushechka]

These are the best climbing technique videos I have ever seen. Huge thank you for making them!

[stephenallen]

I really appreciate how you break down the mechanisms behind good footwork here. Super interesting. Have you considered doing a video on the mechanisms of toe and heel hooking?

[Captain-Jack-Climbing]

Oh yeah baby!!! Another must watch episode.❤

[ranknarlmarg]

This is the best footwork video I've seen to date - great teaching! Thank you!

[Stanginsean]

Been climbing for a handful of years~v7 indoor climber and I’m still learning a ton in your videos!

Awesome work educating everyone of all levels. You’re explaining why I do things that I didn’t quite understand the reason I was doing it. Nice videos!

[Harry-mrmn]

this video is excellent, much better and helpful than many other training videos

[cherylmccutchan]

These technique videos are so helpful! I have been struggling with slabs and had a project that I had attempted unsuccessfully because my feet kept slipping off. Post-video, with my heels down, I had no trouble at all with the section that I had been struggling with. Thanks, ROAP Coaching!

[christianvollenhoven]

As an alternative, as a trad climber it can be equally important to try and keep your calves fresh, so constantly keeping your heels high isn't ideal. Learning to move with less heel engagement is really important

[slapthesloper]

Love the more analytical approach to these videos compared to the many other footwork videos on here. Applying these tips however becomes much more complex on steeper terrain because driving the knee forward and hips up changes your body position on hand holds especially if they aren’t incut.

Another video addressing how to not just push yourself up and out with your feet but instead create tension between hands and feet would be great

[hollywaller]

Very nice explanation, much better than the videos that just say "drop your heals you'll stick better". I love that you talked about the position of the ankle changing where your centre of mass is, so many people miss that!

One slight change I'd make to the explanation (coming from a physics background) is that the surface area has nothing to do with friction, to get the maximum friction the force you apply to the hold needs to be at 90 degrees to the surface. So for the small positive holds which have a horizontal lip, your foot is above them as you described so that the force is at 90 degrees to the hold, for the slopers you drop your heal, which brings the hips out and the force is again applied at 90 degrees to the surface. The actual surface area in contact doesn't matter, just the direction of force. (this is still the best video I've seen out there and is incredibly useful) =)

[tuzeituzei]

This is super helpful for beginner like me who doesn't have a coach or climbing peers to learn from, and usually don't know what to do when get on the wall 😭 Can't wait to get back to the gym and do the practice that I learnt from this video!

[chrish]

Really enjoyed it and a good reminder of one of my biggest faults. Looking forward to the next vid.

[ezequielmaquieira]

Great video! Please keep on with footwork!

[marks]

Love how the step off illustrates the footwork mechanic and the importance of adding in exercises like glute thrust and RDL to a routine. Also wanted to add I’ve been doing my RDLs with a ‘landmine’ set-up which allows you to press up on the balls of your feet to complete the rep. Really enjoyed this video!

[jamjam]

Fantastic instructional video! I am learning so much from your videos. Thank you!!

[elmirganibegovic]

So helpful. Awesome explanation of a seemingly simple concept but genuinely never talked about in this way. That step analogy was SO useful. Thank you!!

[TheTnchi]

Awesome, I've been looking for a video about applications of pressure when I'm climbing. You did a fantastic job of explaining the concept! Keep up the great work man. Looking forward to other videos.

[RANGOTANG]

Great video, glad your channel was recommended

[AamirTime]

So informative and explained in a great way. Will be trying the footwork this week. Thank you.

[JoMoClimber]

This is excellent and very helpful. Thank you!