V2 StarLink Satellite Internet Router 12V DC Rebuild

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This video shows how I rebuilt my StarLink Router included with the version 2 square "Dishy" to run entirely off of 12 volts DC without the need of an inverter or anything else beyond a battery. The dish is powered by the router with no PoE injector required. I did use the optional StarLink Ethernet Adaptor in this build but it is not necessary for this to work.

This is not intended to be a step by step how-to. This is what I did. If it seems like wizardry I would suggest not voiding your warranty.

Primary items used in this project:

DC-DC Step Up Converter (50V Power Supply)
This one is probably overkill but works!

DC-DC Buck Converter (12V Power Supply)

80x10mm Fans (I only used 1)

80mm Mesh Fan Grills

Double Sided Thermal Tape

10x6x4in Case

Heatsink Assortment

Heatsink 100x40x20

RJ45 Extension Cable
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Finished mine today once the 8 pin connectors from Amazon showed up. Great guide and not too hard at all if you are comfortable with electronics. Now I don't have to run the inverter in my RV just to keep Starlink running. Thanks again for posting this!

adamcarpenter
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this is over my head. but im commenting so the algorithms might send it to someone smarter.

I didn't know starlink rv was AC. That is stupid
awsome job.

jimmyjohnson
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Thanks Kevin, you video was very useful. My starlink suddenly lost it's Ethernet connection, although WiFi was still working.

I figured it must be a problem in the little USB-C type connectors, although no amount of wriggling, or spraying contact cleaner made any difference. I have replacement parts coming, but will take a week or two to arrive, so I figured I had nothing to lose.

I eventually managed to butcher off the front glass sheet, and pulled out all the internals as per your video. Then I re-plugged everything on the bench and magically it worked and has been working fine since. I figured that the bulky mounting hardware around the connectors was somehow preventing correct alignment of the tiny contacts.

Next I'll remount it all in a metal box (with external WiFi antenna) and better heat-sinks.

I did keep my 240AC Power supply however.
One thing though, there are lethal voltages around the AC Power supply, be careful!

graemezimmer
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That's a lot of work. I think I'm going to ditch the Starlink-supplied router altogether and go with a router that runs 12v natively. Then power the dish with PoE through the optional Starlink ethernet adapter.

grahamjgreen
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The parts list is very much appreciated. Plan to throw one of these together

Anthony-lgwl
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Great tute, a bit above my electronic skills but great to see the method and the fact the it is a legitimate work around for the RV version (which makes sense to everyone). Thank you for the work to share with everyone

Flaash
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1:05 what you're referring to as a "terrible heatsink" is the EMI shield for the power supply. The heat spreader is the other piece left behind in the router with the heat transfer pads.

AnonymousV
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I didn't even know this was possible, thanks!

justingillis
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Beautiful conception and presentation.

happyhome
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Your like an electronic wizard to me, cool stuff :)

Channel-ccyj
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Is this something you would consider doing for others if you were sent their original router? Seems like you have the tools, supplies, and knowledge!

alpinebro
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Awesome workaround, so silly it doesn't come with DC power option from the factory.

kadetang
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Would you share what exact P/N your starlink router is? There appears to be at least two hardware revisions of the gen2 router with different Ethernet SICs. The older version uses Marvell 88E1512, and the newer is EconNet EN8801. Your PCB in this video appears to be using the Marvell SIC.

zeferrum
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Hello. Pin 6 of my j5 connector referring to the 48v input came out of the board. Can you tell me if it is possible to make a jumper at another point on the board?

heltontinhosouza
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I appreciate the project someone's got to do it but I'm going to go with just ditching the router now that it's possible I thought the router had some proprietary functionality that it needed the starlink dish but apparently not you can just Huck it in the garbage

Reedith
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Peefect solution for rv
Do you have wiring diagram?

necubredatikazem
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Hello, can anyone help me. I used a dc-dc inverter from 12v to 48V 3a 144w but it didn't work with another router

reginaldobrito
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If the only function of the Starlink PCB is Router; Why not replace it with an off the shelf router?

Thinker-truth
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Thanks man, good work! How much Watts/Ampere does it draw?

johanneskronach
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where is the connection diagram does anyone have it there can share

mcronaldinho