The ONE Trick they Don’t Teach at Carpenter University!!!

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5 GREAT GIFT IDEAS!

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2 PRICIER BUT EQUALLY AWESOME GIFTS!

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[idt]

My wife bought me a laser guided power miter saw when we bought our first flipper/fixer-upper. It allowed me to miscut things with a lot greater accuracy.

[guymandude]

I didn't have a belt sander, I just got in my car, and with my door open a bit, held the piece to the ground while I drove to the dispensary. Worked pretty good. Theres a rough edge, but you can't see it if you look from a certain angle.

[HandyOleManny]

Or measure to the sheetrock corner and cut the miter at 46 degrees. That extends the Long point out to compensate for the out of square corner. Also put a return on that short piece on the left and you will a better looking end as you're coming up the stairs. Caulk the top of Base, fill the nail holes and paint it. All done. Finish Carpenter

[HFRajuncajun]

Good tip.
Also, I’ve found this is caused by the taper leaving extra mud at the bottom of the corner bead. Sometimes you can simply scrape the corner in either side with a flat bar and it’ll gain back that 1/16”, hopefully saving you a trip to the belt sander.

[donaldduck]

Best part: You’re a carpentry guru! Then it doesn’t fit! With the music and sound effects. I’m still rolling! 😂 I thought dude was totally serious! He got me good!😎

[martinpanks]

Just mark up the back of the skirting at the wall corner that’s your length and your 45 cut point, easy! Works every time.

[Sporkula]

As someone who’s done carpentry for 16 years, (300+ pieces of baseboard just yesterday!) I can tell you that this “fix” takes 8 times longer than simply replacing the short piece. Even faster: remove the short piece and simply slide it 1/16” over and re-nail it. In this case the left side will now have a small gap but it will get caulked. Another tip: unless the baseboard is abnormally tall, or you have a fisher-price miter saw, you can usually stand it upright on the miter saw for cutting those angles; you don’t have to put the saw on a compound angle.

[rickyd.]

For anyone afraid of their ability to rectify the problem with sanders etc, sawdust and carpenters white glue mixed together fills up the gap and can be sanded off to perfection later

[jimshahan]

Thank you! For novice people like me, who would keep cutting ends at different angles in an attempt to match, this if very handy. I don't mind using a "bit" of wood filler, silicone, etc., but learning tricks of trade to make the best fit possible, even if it takes a little more time is a great life lesson. This is a very good method of taking "just a bit at at time" to make it a very good fit.

[psalmsheepdog]

I remember the first time I used a belt sander. I put the piece of wood on a work surface (not thinking about clamping it) . Put the belt to the board, and zing!! The board shot off the work table and into the wall, creating a nice hole in the drywall. Even more funny was my wife and I both watched the board as it flew into the wall . . just like you would see in a comedy show. We still laugh about this over 30 years later. One of the fun memories we have of building our house. That was a great tip.

[esrAsnataS]

Buy three times more than I need, cut loads then rage quit and put something in front of it. That's the way I roll.

[Peorhum]

When I worked in the trade we just used the board stretcher...worked all the time. The real trick is not allowing this to happen and THATS where the art of carpentry truly is, and there is a few tricks to do that.

Here is some hints...items in your toolbelt; pencil, knife, 2 small flathead screwdrivers, finishing hammer, small sandpaper block, a small piece of trim cut at a perfect 45(both ends or have 2 with each having different end cut at 45), glue bottle and for last resort...measuring tape(seldom used)...HAVE CHOP SAW IN THE SAME ROOM AS YOU ARE WORKING IN OR VERY NEAR BY. When cutting, think in terms of heel and toe and in hair thicknesses. In the trade we often worked in pairs, one doing the sizing(measuring) and the pinning and the other the cutting. OH...and do the corners 1st and trim to size on the straight ends if possible. Most professionals will bead the top of the trim with silicone, white or clear, if wall is finished with paint or wallpaper.

[bobsmoot]

Joint compound. Works beautifully. Overfill gaps (along top and bottom too). Let it stick out a little for shrinage. When dry, damp sponge to flush in seconds.

[sawdustadikt]

A miter gauge helps a lot and after installing 1000s of feet of this stuff over very crooked walls and floors it’s almost never straight forward, the scribe comes out to get your work to be as tight as possible. Being able to set your gear up as close as possible to your work area actually saves time and “sets you up” for really tight work. Using both a dust barrier be it zip pole or handy masker and film, and a vac on your tools allows you to work in lived in areas. Either way you are spending time and effort, I say, spend it efficiently setting up to work efficiently getting your best ever work, every time. Makes the time you spend doing this so much more enjoyable. This was funny as hell, keep up the great content homey!

[elginjohnson]

When I watched this video I was sure this guy was in my bathroom snooping around the woodwork. Your crack fitting was good, I use latex calking, and lots of it, if that doesn’t cover the cracks, all I do is put a small waste basket or vase of flowers in front of the corner, works every time. But I will try your method next time. E.J.

[GuvFlint]

Hold skirt to Wall on both sides, small pencil line on floor, strike through the points, (wall corner to pencil line crossing point) Bevel it and take to the mitre saw, measure from pencil to end, mitre cut, glue, then pin. But a very nice fix for a easy mistake we all have made.

[gerardoquiroz]

No fluff no bs love these videos with the occasional joke from the funny guy

[gandolph]

Yes. I have been "a carpentry guru" so many times. I had mastered the art of measuring once then cursing myself many times. Great video. Thanks.

[P_RO_]

When installing moldings, always do the outside corners first and test-fit. If you're not positive about length cut a bit long then trim as needed. 45 degree angles are for casing moldings, baseboard is always 44 inside and 46 outside. Better to cut outside joints a hair long, fit both pieces of the base together with glue, then let the base float off the wall as needed. Top trick here: run a small vertical bead of caulk just back from the corner on both sides when assembling to prevent the floated corner from being pushed inward later on.

Stain grade requires more precise fitting so I keep a pair of roughly 16" long pieces of scrap base on hand with 46 cuts on both ends and use them to test the outside corner before measuring or cutting, if the 46 doesn't work use the scrap to test an adjusted angle. Hold them in place properly fitted and draw a line on the floor on both sides. Measure to the outside of those lines then erase them while it's easy. This makes each part one pencil line width too long and ensures a tight corner every time. Outside crown corners are done the same way. If the ceiling has finish paint on it, instead of a pencil line mark, lightly score with a razor knife instead and allow a hair extra in measuring.

Drywall corners are never finished straight and flat, they always curve some. Using the 16" test pieces ensures you are bridging that curve to where the finished piece will actually lay when installed. Using too-short test pieces will land you in that curve and cause errors. You can use a similar technique and 44 degree angles for inside corners. Just remember after finding the angle with your test pieces to re-cut them back to 46 or 44 before checking and fitting the next corner.

[whatsyoursteezo]

So...realistically, you should never nail in the trim at corners until you test fit the pieces since it appears you might have cut the shorter piece on the left too short and positioned it wrong. I always pinch the corner and do a test and then nail with all pieces in place.