You Will Get Better Amplitude Once YOU LEARN THIS

Now that the Impulse jewel has been fixed, I need to work towards getting our Amplitude higher. In this video I start searching for amplitude in the mainspring barrel. Join me while I inspect the mainspring barrel.

***************************************************************************************************
✨✨ Get Your Copy of my eBook, The Secrets for Adjusting Watch Rates ✨✨

✨✨Watchmaking Courses and Training ✨✨

🚀 Don't Miss Out: Sign up for the "It's About Time" Monthly Newsletter

Become a Watch Repair Tutorial Patreon to access advanced workshops, ad free video and bonus trainings:
***************************************************************************************************

DISCLOSURE: I often review or link to products & services I regularly use and think you might find helpful. Wherever possible I use referral links, which means if you click one of the links in this video or description and make a purchase we may receive a small commission or other compensation.

Galaxy Pro Pivot Polisher

MY MICROSCOPE SET-UP

** FULL LIST OF TOOLS & SUPPLIES I USE **

[serialcoins]

This is the sort of knowledge you watch and think this is good stuff, but you watch it again in a years time and think wow, this guy is a genius, and you watch it in two years time and think, Alex has given me the keys to the castle. Thank you

[leowatkins]

Low amplitude may be due to several faults ( on the same movement )! not the answer I wanted to hear.
If you want a movement which is almost guaranteed to have these faults look no further than Seiko's 7009, warning, working on these movements can be totally deflating. I have nearly changed my hobby as a watch maker to a dealer in watchmakers used tools a couple of times. This channel is by far the best I've found, my tip of the day... watch each video more than once. Thanks Alex.

[rossjackson]

Absolutely flipping brilliant. Riveting may be a better word. As you said, watch it to the end. Could not stop until I had. Understood everything you said and am able to do it, even with my home made staking set. Way to go Alex. !!

[AnalogDave]

My inspection process is not adequate yet. I knew this, but I just don't know all the things I should be looking for. Videos like this really help me in my journey. Thanks.

[jfdomega]

Wow, love it, you go into such detail I can only imagine how much work you put into these videos. You are a great tutor btw only just come across your videos mow I can't get enough thanks for uploading them. 👏

[yanholland]

Marvellous, just completed my first barrel bridge hole shrinking using a freshly acquired Boley staking set - couldn't have done it without your insight.
Been gradually seeing amplitude increases in my work thanks to your excellent tutorials, the watch that required shrinking was kicking out a very respectable 230 degrees DD/DU, which for a 7625 Seiko is pretty healthy - sadly it would drop down to the mid 150s after 24 hours. Suspected some excess play in the barrel and it did look excessive on re-examination.
Just waiting on the broaches arriving to bring the holes back down to take the arbour and then a polish up with a cocktail stick.

[TropicalSpeed]

Another clear and informative instructional video. I have come to expect this level of instruction from Alex.
It is terrific that he found an additional use for the the GalaxyPro pivot polisher at 27:10.
I recall.polishing arbors by hand which can take quite awhile and is difficult. Alex has managed to cut another process time for repairs. Is there any reason why one could not also lightly burnish an arbor using a burnishing tool?

[mercuriall]

Awesome video, thank you Alex! One great tip when checking the end shake of the barrel arbor is to screw a pointed piece of pegwood into the arbor to grip it, and then push and pull to feel and see the endshake. I find this a lot easier than trying to grip the arbor with tweezers.
I would certainly be interested in a video about closing different types of pivot holes in Watch plates and bridges.

[tomholloway]

Thanks again Alex. Your videos are so informative and well presented, I am learning a lot from you and am working on an outline for my future procedures and processes. I am only a hobbyist but very detail and knowledge oriented and these help me a lot.

[austin]

So many great tips! Thank you. On those T brace mainsprings, I always use a slightly smaller winder cup than I need and then leave about 1/4” maybe 3/8” of the mainspring hanging out. I then fit it into the barrel ensuring the tab is in the slot. I then hold the brace down with tweezers with one hand and release the spring with the other. A bit to juggle at once but it usually works the first try.

[phillipmaciver]

Excellent commentary making the whole process easily understandable....thanks for your time and efforts, quality tuition.👍

[thegrumpymuso]

Thank goodness for this video as I'm working on a Poljot movement that has the 't' bridle and knew that I'd seen something in one of your videos about seating the bridle. Time to turn up a quick tool as I only have 4mm brass rod. This is the beauty of your videos, they are a reference work that I can keep on going back to.

[zoranser]

so much knowledge, and so good presented , bravo !

[ryanscott]

Hey Alex, appreciate the insight and new knowledge as usual!! I did want to also share however a method of installing T-end mainsprings which I read online and tried, which has finally has saved me pushing the mainspring around the inside of the barrel (which I have found often does indeed score the outer wall of the barrel leaving brass shavings floating around inside the barrel). You get the mainspring almost completely wound into the winder drum, but leave 1/4”-3/8” of the tail end of the mainspring not wound into the drum. This way, the T-end is exposed, and you can actually hook the T-end of the mainspring into its slot in the mainspring barrel before fully pushing the mainspring out of the winder into the barrel. The only stipulation then is that the winder drum you use has to be of a small enough diameter to allow the tail end of the mainspring to slip between it and the ID of the barrel wall, but that’s not usually a problem since the mainspring is so thin anyway. Just figured I’d try and give back for all the learning which you’ve provided, thank you!

[dekim]

Hi! Do you remember me?
After a lot of studying, I can now service my favorite vintage watches myself.
Nevertheless, I've been whining for almost half an hour in the process of reuniting the gear chain..
Understanding the mechanism by which the key points of the clock work, pinpointing exactly what's wrong with the vintage movement when it's not working, seems a little bit possible now.
I think it's thanks to you who taught me little by little how to clean using IPA, who was confused about what to do first.

[DeadFront]

The attention to detail is a dying skill, you're very good sir👏👏👏🙏

[saldogdave]

Chasing amplitude is a constant challenge for me. Your videos really help with that. Thanks so much!

[boydsargeant]

A fantastic video crammed full of great gems! I’m always chasing the big A!

[kamilj]

Good morning, deepest respect for sharing your knowledge, it is very useful to me. I would like a video on closing pivot holes, I am learning to repair watches, often pocket watches, and it is a very common problem there.
Thank you for all your help 🤝🥇

[JR-vsfy]

Thank you for educating, 30:23 in the edit you refer to hamilton homage w PT-5000, is there a link to that build?, regards