Making a Blacksmith Anvil Stand

This was a project long overdue. I bought my anvil months ago and haven't got to use it yet. Also it's one step closer to getting my metal workshop up and running.

I didn't add a hammer/tool rack as I plan to make a small trolley to position near the anvil with what I need on it for each job.

I mentioned in the video that I was starting to struggle with the welder and I said I'd buy another soon, I've already ordered it and should be on it's way soon. The old welder has done me well until now, it's had heaps of use and was a very cheap one, so it's more than paid for itself several times over.

As always I'm happy to answer any questions.

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Pask Makes
P.O BOX 768
Yandina
Queensland
4561
Australia

[PaskMakes]

This was a project long overdue. I bought my anvil months ago and haven't got to use it yet. Also it's one step closer to getting my metal workshop up and running.

I didn't add a hammer/tool rack as I plan to make a small trolley to position near the anvil with what I need on it for each job.

I mentioned in the video that I was starting to struggle with the welder and I said I'd buy another soon, I've already ordered it and should be on it's way soon. The old welder has done me well until now, it's had heaps of use and was a very cheap one, so it's more than paid for itself several times over. :)

[tharemyhopkins]

Holy smokes - that lifting edit was brilliant! Looked like fun to do, too.

[jonahtaake]

I love how you apologize for being late on a video when you post more regularly than others. Plus you don't even have ads. That shows true love for what you do and honestcare for your viewers

[vincentrosa]

Fooled me with your daughter, i was thinking wow she's pretty strong picking up that big anvil, great job on the build 👍

[EngineerMikeF]

Welds work better on clean metal, no paint or rust. Might try wire brushing or sanding off any finish near planned welds.

[ronmichaelsen]

I took a welding class once and became a good grinder! Cheers. Stay well.

[richardpalmer]

Surely you jest sir, when you say " hopefully this will help someone . " This has got to be the most stable, most logically built anvil stand around . You have built it using a minimal amount of material with the strongest design .
I"m very glad that you showed how you actually moved the anvil on to the base . #1 It shows that you did not break any child labor laws . Although you should show the first version to any young man that wants to date the young lady .
# 2 that technique is very handy to us old geezers, who were not kind to our bodies when we were young and dumb .
Thank you, stay healthy, keep posting .

[boryscholewinski]

Im repeatedly impressed by your ingenuity. Its in those small jigs, like that corner and a wedge, where your brilliance overshadows not just my own humble skills but even my aspirations. I mean... Damn I wouldnt think of that wedge. So clever. Thank you for sharing knowledge and for entertaining.

[cg]

You're a woodman not a metalman. I have never seen a man who is both. Expert in one side, handyman in another. One exception : Mr Diresta. The man who engrave his name everywhere.

[TimPiggott]

Really nice job. I love how you take time to do the extras like sand & oil, silicon, Hammer finish paint, corner restraints, bracing. You take real pride in your work and its inspiring!

[LostStormcrow]

I’ve used horse stall matting whenever I want a high quality, thick, cheap rubber matting. I did the floor in my home gym with it, which worked great. After that I found dozens of uses for the scraps around my shop (though I never had a cool ‘Scrap Horse Mat Challenge’ theme song). I’m guessing it’d do a bang up job on deadening an anvil.

In the States you can always get it at a farm goods store, like Tractor Supply. Be warned it comes in large sheets.

[Boris]

G'day Neil, Years ago in a big maintenance shop we had a 160 lb anvil sitting in a steel box of 6mm plate 300mm deep filled with dry sand and a 6mm rubber mat on top of the sand, supprted by a leg on each corner. It did a great job of stopping the ringing and it did not move about with the very heavy blows from 14lb sledges raining down upon the top. Tim

[threeriversforge]

Had the same thing happen when I put silicone down under my Wilkinson anvil. I was amazed at how much squished out! You'll be happy to know that you don't need those bolts now that you've gone through all the trouble to re-drill the holes. That silicone is like a super-glue and you'll have a bear of a time trying to break the bond once it sets up!

The oil/sand mix is to help slow/stop the corrosion inside the legs from ambient moisture. I usually pour about a cup into each leg, then fill with sand before welding on the feet. The oil will migrate as you use the anvil, the vibrations helping to move it around as much as capillary action does. Adding it before the sand means you can weld the feet on without worry that you'll light the oil on fire with the heat of the welder because the oil hasn't had time to migrate up to where you're welding.

Overall, great build and I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with next.

[bobbonham]

You have a strong helper. Thanks for the great video. I'm looking forward to more projects in your new shop.

[orionbennett]

new subscriber here .... I enjoy that you make mistakes, and instead of ignoring them, you explain what you did wrong, then fix them. No job goes without mistakes, but too many Youtubers don't film them.

[paulshortt]

SO, SO glad you add the mistakes it makes it better video and you a are a human, also nice to see other people measure once cut once on the odd occasion.

[steliosstavrinides]

Always love the simplicity in the way you work Neil. All the best to your new shop mate.

[boryscholewinski]

Finally! Something I can do as well! I've been mixing sand with liquids since I was a toddler.

[mikecurtin]

I know I'm going to like your videos before I start watching, so thumbs up to crush a troll.



There were several useful tips, especially adding sand in the legs. For your future consideration, when I set a stop for consistency, once I set the stop I move the part against it again to make sure all the parts see the same conditions. Probably only makes a thousandth or two (inches) difference, but on machined parts it can be noticeable. Thanks much for posting.

[DavidNayer]

As usual, love your video. I'm commenting to share a potential design improvement I have implemented when I set up production spaces with equipment or tables that have bolt down tabs. I put the bolt tabs on the inside of the feet facing into the internal space under the item. It makes the bolts and tabs one less thing to bump into. It is especially useful when the legs are flared. No sharp edges, no trip hazards when you're carrying heavy work pieces.