Top 5 Framing MISTAKES I See Builders Make!

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Hey guys Brad the Builder here, I hope you all enjoy today's episode! Stay tuned for more videos, and I'll see you on the next job site!

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Nice work...good finding your channel. To the point!

marcosmota
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All very high quality tips! I began framing exactly as you described in the early 1970's. All builders/homeowners should demand attention to all of the things you pointed out, unfortunately many don't.
Excellent video, well done!!!

arkansas
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Many years ago, I framed a house for another builder. He had started using Advantech for his sub-floors. I immediately switch to Advantech and never looked back. Hands down, the best sub-floor material on the market.

victormarinelli
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Awesome work!! Thank you. And these comments about 3/4 roof ply and all rafters at 16s… not sure why they do that. Maybe high snow zones? Usually people have regional experience. We should all be studying and appreciating each others work. To me you are a real builder. I won’t argue with you. I can’t. So thanks for the video.

life.
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I was building my cabin years ago (I'm sitting in it now). Used Adventech subflooring. We halted construction for about 2 years. The subfloor held up really well despite being open to the elements. It has a few wavy spots but I was impressed. We ran out of money for a while but living in it now.

mrsparex
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I used 2x4 wall construction with Zip R-12 sheathing, which outperforms 2x6 construction with uninsulated sheathing by reducing thermal bridging. Closed cell spray all exterior walls 3". 2" of foam sprayed on top of ceiling drywall and blown fiberglass for total r-60 for roof. Plywood subfloor instead of Avantech because it holds wood floor staples better than coated OSB. My blower door test was 75% lower than code but would have been better if I had noticed a couple of uncapped vents, like a 6" stove exhaust.

I used laminated studs in long hallways and in kitchen for dead straight walls and for hanging cabinets. Those also help base trim maintain contact at all points to wall with no unsightly gaps or wavey trim.

If I ever build again, I'd check every vertical stud opening for plumbness after framing and check all window/door jambs for proper overlay to studs for drywall. I had three large windows where drywall needed to be cut away so casings laid flat across jambs and drywall. Much easier to get out the cordless planer to address problem areas before drywall goes up.

I live in zone 6 with very long and cold winters.

bobbray
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My first house was built in 1963. I gutted the garage down to the studs. During the remodel I stuffed R-30 unfaced insulation in each wall cavity, top to bottom and on the ceiling and installed an insulated garage door. My drywall guy wasn't happy but he got it done. That was the best insulated room in the house!

billsmith
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I’m a carpenter and I lost half my left index finger last year. I miss doing carpentry and I’ve had to have a career change but this is helping me miss is a little less. Thanks Brad 👌🏼🙏

samfrost
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A clean job site is a safe job site. I twisted my knee on a dirty job site all my fault, I hobbled for a year afterwords.
I agree with you on the sheeting. Here in the PNW we get rain all the time and OSB will fatten up and you'll see it on the finished product.

scuddrunner
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I have a tip for your framers, tack up 3 ft strips of 6 mil poly to your exterior walls prior to standing your interior walls. Then your vapor barrier flows threw from room to room and is easier to seal up.

sandersonshomestead
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Awesome tips. The 8' doors are such a great idea

er
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I was a framer 25 years ago. Those poor people must be paying a fortune to heat their houses. For example wall pockets never were insulated. For headers we slapped a piece of scrap plywood between the two 2 x 10’s. 2 x 4 walls with an inch of foam on the outside. Nice to see things are improving.

mezenman
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I know nothing about building a house, but I do enjoy all your videos. Thank you for posting these tips.

marydunn
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My house was built in 1971 and 2x4 structure. South Louisiana has mild winters. Need to replace 11' of termite eaten garage wall at overhead door including the top plate, fortunately sill plate still in good shape. Much harder to rebuild top plate to code when the roof is already in place and can only access from one side as there's brick face on front of house.

christopherdekonstrukt
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From the UK, love learning new skills and listening to how others build etc.
Very well explained.
Oh and btw, old school here, so refreshing to deal in ft and “‘s again
😉👍🇬🇧🇺🇸

Andrew-isrs
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In norway we use 2x8 on exterior walls then after damp blocker we have a 2x2 then we put the drywall or other interior panel on that leaves us with 10 inches of insulation or 25 cm

gunnarflaten
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I had a house with 10' ceiling and 8' doors. Looked great.
the trim took a lot longer to do though.

brianyoung
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I know exactly what you mean by the doors. My house is approx 70yrs old. It has high (I think cathedral ceilings, short on the front end and high in the middleof the house) ceilings and the doors look short compared with the walls.
I appreciate all the tips and tricks you can share!!

mamawnamidreviews
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In my area we call them California corners, and I think California has some of the strictest building codes in the country.

theroadnottaken
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Thanks for sharing your framing secrets with us ! I'm sure Flair and the rest of your customers appreciate your attention to all the details in building a top-notch home.

dalegereaux