RV Power Awning Struggles and Troubleshooting | Dometic 9200

In this Episode:
We talk about the troubles we’ve been having with our Dometic 9200 power awning. We will go over troubleshooting steps for this awning, as well as other RV systems.

Welcome to our RV Camping channel. Ryan and Rachel here, we are weekend warriors with a mission to highlight RVing in the eastern United States; with our daughter Sarah, son William, and our two dogs (Trigger and Lilly). We live in Pennsylvania, and while PA is our favorite State to explore, we also visit the surrounding states when possible. Our 2019 Wildwood X-Lite is towed behind our new 2021 RAM 2500 BigHorn. We hope you will subscribe, join us on some of our adventures and be inspired to go on your own adventures.

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[mountainsintomemories]

I've since sold the awning motor, so it's no longer available.

[kerchalmier]

Thanks for this video. I was poised to buy a $300.0 like you did. I came up with an even easier solution. Not intentionally, but I accidentally opened up the switch. Inside I discovered carbon buildup on the connectors. Using a pencil eraser I cleaned off the carbon, put the switch back together, and reinstalled it. It works like new.

[KingPickleBk]

When I closed last season, my awning button wouldnt do anything. I turned that hidden nut which manually closes the awning (hidden under a rubber grommet) a few times. Button started working again. My motor was seized up I guess. When I opened this season, had to do the same thing again. 2 minutes after climbing off my ladder, my neighbor who was also opening for the season said his awning was dead. I did the same to his and it worked. Just another thing you guys can check if your power awning isnt working. BTW, when I would press the switch I would hear absolutely nothing, so I check the usual (fuse, switch, wiring etc). It was just the motor seized up.

[davidcooper]

Yep. Was the switch. Pulled it out and opened it up. Several bits of plastic fell out. Rebuilt and installed. Works fine now.

[wdbbrinton]

I bought the switch for $50 Canadian on Amazon, now have two, lol. Once I got in there what a rats nest of wires. Low and behold there was two white wires not connected. Lesson learned check wires. Thanks for your help

[jaywhite]

Thanks for the tips and the perspective. Sometimes I get caught up on all the maintenance and forget the experiences camping brings. I just ordered a switch and my plan is to solder 3 6-inch 12awg wires to the switch instead of using spade connectors. Then I’ll just Wago the wires together.

On our 4th camping season and just replaced a 16’ fabric. My perspective was not the greatest but your words helped (along with the awning tips).

[BugCrushr]

There are a couple things you can do to verify the switch without checking the amperage. First is measure the voltage at the motor connector while the connector is connected to the motor and the switch is operated. The voltage should not drop alot under load. IF your switch contacts have high resistance the voltage will drop significantly under load. You can also connect the motor connector backwards to see if the problem reverses. Nice video, very useful. :)

[andreaellis]

Great info thanks! Will check the switch first before ordering new motor!

[JeffinTD]

I’ve gone down the rabbit hole when a light wasn’t working. Ohm meter indicated the switch worked and voltage was present in the socket when on. The switch was making good enough contact for the tiny bit of current the meter needs to take volt or ohm readings, but went open circuit when under any load.

A test light instead of the meter would likely show the problem (get one with an incandescent bulb that pulls a few amps). Meter wise for like $100 at Home Depot you can get a decent meter with clamp on amp meter. Be sure to get one that does both ac and dc.

[DonEastern-ojct]

I have a Solera awning, on a Cherokee wolf pup.
It was extending slowly, and when I retracted the awning in, it blows a fuse . Disconnected the rocker switch from the wall and found a loose white wire. It sparked and blew the fuse . I ordered a new wiring harness with a new awning switch.. a Lippert . It has the red and black crossover wires in the switch so I no longer need to worry about those two connections.
From the New Electric switch it has a red wire, a blue wire, a black wire, and a white wire…




Coming out of my Tt wall, I have two split wires to connect to those four wires on the electric switch two solid white wires that are split with a white wire with a green stripe.
I have checked with the voltage meter and I do have power coming to the switch . But when I hit the extend button, it doesn’t blow a fuse, but when I go to retract, it blows a fuse every time.. so at this time I have a white wire going to the black wire I have a white striped wire going to the blue wire. I have a solid white wire going to the white wire on the switch. and the last one the red wire from the switch, I have the white wire with a green stripe connected.
Is that correct? I know that RV electrical systems are different and I cannot find a correct diagram to actually tell me what is what. After I can figure this out, I’m going to mount it back into the wall go check power to the motor but if anybody can help me to let me know if I have this wired correctly I would sure appreciate it

[brianevans]

Most likely the poor connection was causing excessively high amperage draw which could cause the switch to overheat and fail. That’s just what I saw a lot of when I worked in the auto industry. Also you could have checked the resistance in the switch with a multimeter.

[markbrown]

To test for an electrical problem I always test in this sequence: source, circuit, load.

Instead of testing amperage, test for voltage drop with load. Testing for voltage without testing for voltage drop with a load will / can give false results.

To test a component, be it a connection, wire, switch, etc, test voltage first on the source side of the component first. (The source in this case is the battery). Place meter on battery side of switch and activate. If voltage stays within acceptable range, source and circuit up to this component is ok. Then place meter on load side of switch, activate load and check for voltage drop. If voltage drop not acceptable, switch is bad.

Work your way through the entire system until you find the issue.

A voltage drop outside the parameters of a motors specifications, will cause the motor damage and can burn it up. For lights, they only go dim.

Hope this helps.

[jameseavey]

Any chance you could provide me a photo of the wiring on the back of the switch? I belive I may have crossed up some wires when trying to troubleshoot my switch. Thanks so much if you’re able to.

[unclecheeseboys]

To verify that the switch is bad, you can bypass the switch, by removing the two leads and touching them together.

[jasonharms]

Thanks for this. Having the same issue. Fully retracted. Want to replace the switch, which you kinda just skipped over. Which one did you buy?

[HollyVerweyst]

Thank you! Where did you get the switch?

[wdbbrinton]

What switch are you referring to, the fixed/wired awning switch, 3310455.062 good video

[jennifercollins]

Wish I could send you a picture tell me if I can fix and maybe how

[kittygonzalez]

There’s nothing like RV AWNING PROBS! Especially when I am stationary...and glad you’re human..TRY being a single old woman with electrically challenged History ...I do not understand amps volts...etc! I have been zapped too many times! My awning flew off during a wind storm ...a friend was staying there and didn’t know how to bring it in with dead battery! It is out of my budget to take it in ...I don’t own a truck! I live in mine since the Valley Fire 7 yrs ago! It’s the roof over my head, and Forest River 2017 wolfpup p toy hauler...stupid floor plan!

[inlovewithsurfin]

would possibly be interested in buying your motor! i can't find one for sale anywhere...