7.3 Powerstroke Boosts Leaks, Up-Pipes, and Exhaust Leaks Fixed!

A lot of people have issues with boost and exhaust leaks on their 7.3 turbos. This will rob power and make your turbo not run right. Even small leaks can SEEM to run right, but you are still losing out!
Here is a few tricks to help fix the issue. Lets fix them!

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[johnslender]

Simple tips and tricks advice like this saves hours of messing around. Thankyou KC Turbos

[murphtahoe]

Love it. One of the most succinct tip videos on YouTube! I’m getting ready to pull my turbo and a lot of other stuff on my 7.3 for some maintenance and this info will be invaluable! Thanks in advance!

[jaws]

Dude? Why was it until today that I learned this? Thank you.

[myleshansel]

Great tips, love those spider clamps, better than the hose type clamps.

[The_Wood]

Very good video. Very informative. Having the engine on a stand sure does help with accessibility. The engine compartment is somewhat "tight".

[joethurman]

Info like this should come with a price tag! Thank you a ton

[joshuascritchfield]

These tips helped me out so much! Keep up the good work KC's!

[jamesb]

If you are doing this by yourself (like I did) here are a couple tips I learned from others as well as by trial and error.

As far as the back up-pipe that connects to back of turbo right behind wastegate, I chose to pass on loosening the up pipe from the manifold or the turbo from it's pedastal, cause with my luck it would have just made things a million times worse once I couldn't get those back into position.

Instead I completely loosened the v clamp that connects the two, then using a pry bar I just pried on the back of the up-pipe towards the turbo then as soon as it was lined up put v clamp back on and tightened it. I did this by myself and my truck is lifted, so you can definitely do it!

Now, turbo to spider... loosen up the hose brackets on the lower two sections and the bolt boots on the hot and cold air pipes. Do NOT remove all the way, unless absolutely necessary... the bolt boots are ok and if you really have to pull the pipes out of the black and blue sleeves, its kind of a pain to get them back on the sleeve. But for the love of god, do NOT remove the hose brackets completely that connect the lower two sections to the engine... if you do you are going to have a really bad time and most likely end up with hands/arms embedded with fiberglass. If your flathead keeps slipping out of those POS brackets, try using an 8 socket instead.

Alright enough about brackets, back to the turbo to spider... same concept as earlier. Loosen v clamp that connects the two and (loosen 4 other pipe connections IF necessary) and use your pry bar to pry spider towards turbo. Once they are lined up nice and tight go ahead and tighten that v clamp back on there while doing your damndest to hold pry bar in place.

The prybar i used was a stubby little guy, about a foot long. Once you get your v clamp on tight go ahead and tighten your boots/brackets all up and give her a go!

The consistency and volume of the turbo whine is seriously night and day compared to what it was before, not to mention the performance increase.

I'm no expert, and maybe I just got lucky, but if you're like me and are scared of unbolting things that you know are going to be a nightmare to put back together, I think giving my way a try is definitely worth a shot!

[klew]

This is great, everything I am dealing with right now

[To_Arms]

Very nice video. Thank you for the tip. I was just getting ready to put a turbo onto my 2000 f250.

[notyourdadah]

Honestly my first time working on a diesel engine and when I put the turbo in I thought I was good to go, started, no boost at all. At least I know my problem now lmao

[adeoliver]

Well, just got a 99 with a huge boost leak and exhaust leak, had a cut down pipe to the floor board, and new up pipes. Im gonna guess, thats where my problems are, just installed a new 4 inch system from riffraff and still have a huge exhaust leak and boost leak. Soon as i get the chance ill pull it in the shop and see what i can find. Thanks for the tips.

[mrpzy]

Thank you for the video. Great advice.

[klikliks_service]

Also use a mirror and a light you can see if it's flush in the gap.

[badass.powerstroke]

Nice Video Charlie, Very Helpful. Even tho I'm a 6.0 Powerstroke Owner, i Never Miss any of your Videos. I'm Running your Stage 2 and I'm Loving it !!! I know you're looking into a different bearing manufacturer for your Stage 2r any Plans in the Future of doing your Stage 3 in a Ball Bearing Configuration ? I would be definitely interested, and I'm sure I'm Not the Only Person that would Like to See That

[larescats]

Awesome presentation very well explained very good video

[technicalitems]

Handy video. Does loosening the pedestal cause oring pinch? Also, would a ratchet strap around the collector pulling over and under to the front of engine help?

[Boron]

loosen your up pipes, keep your o rings sealed, up grade to a two piece intake.

[HooksAndWheels]

Do you mount to the manifold solid...I'm 9 hours in and cant get them lined up...manifold bolts are loose...cant get collector to align with turbo AND PUT THE CLAMPS ON AT THE SAME TIME

[melissagross]

I've tried 3 times to mate my y-pipe collector to my turbo and I still have a little oil seeping from between them " I just replaced injectors". I can't see how I can get it ant better mated or how it will be leak free