1.6HDi turbo failures, the 2 main reasons and surprisingly simple steps to prevent it

Want to avoid or prevent turbo failure in the 1.6HDi or 1.6TDCi engines, this is the video for you!

The car is a turbo diesel 1.6HDi Peugeot Partner (2007; M59; ~106,000 miles), the same as a Citroen Berlingo. This should be fairly the same in 1.6 TDCi engines, as in Ford, but also Mazda 3, Mini Cooper Diesel, Suzuiki, Volvo.

I will explain in the video the two main reasons behind the turbo failures in these engines. The primary reason for the turbo failure is the injector copper seals. This alone covers more than 90% of all turbo failures in the 1.6HDi/TDCi engines. The second reason is the use of incorrect oil in these engines.

I will also show you what you can practically do to prevent these turbo failures. In other words, tightening the injector stud nuts. The stud nuts are 7mm allen key.

Correct oil for my 1.6HDi Peugeot Partner: Total Quartz Ineo ECS 5W-30 (5L):

Here are my videos of replacing the turbo in this engine. It is a comprehensive series of 5 videos and covers everything you need to know about replacing the turbo in these engines:

00:00 - 00:28 Intro
00:28 - 00:44 N 1 reason for turbo failure (injector seals)
00:44 - 1:26 Symptoms of failing injector seals
01:26 - 03:00 Why injector seals lead to turbo failure
03:00 - 04:18 N 2 reason for turbo failure (engine oil)
04:18 - 09:24 How to tighten injector bolts and prevent turbo failure
09:24 - 11:54 If you have tar & other reasons 4 turbo failure
11:54 - 12:15 Final words
11:54 - 12:58 ChrisFix impersonation takes

#HDi #TurboFailure #HDiTurbo

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[allan]

I can’t believe I found this guy. He is amazing. He is so full in-depth in his instructions and goes over and above in all steps. I removed and cleaned, replaced my EGR yesterday after watching this guys video. I got the dreaded faulty anti pollution message and since cleaning the EGR and resetting the code it runs brilliant. He saved me hundreds of pounds and it went like a dream. I can’t thank him enough.

[averagedev]

My van passed just over 300 000km. It was driven most of its life on open roads. Used that oil all the time. Changed oil every 10 000km, changed all the fluids when it had 150 000km on a big service. Now i pulled off the head to get the it checked for lifter noise. The cylinfers look clean, no scoring, no carbon buildup. Original turbo on the car. Cams have no wear. Only worn out part are the injectors and i sent theme to be refurbished. I might have caused it since the van was driving at least 40 000km on a 50/50 mix of used vegetable oil and diesel due to me beeing very broke at the time.

Had to replace the oil pan since i stripped the plug somehow and the back collant pipe that runs behind the engine. Also replaced the front rocker cover due to it leaking oil.

Your channel was really helpfull with diagnosing the smoke issue on cold starts.

[livingsoul.]

This is the best psa engine channel on youtube for sure!

[viktorstamenkovski]

Finding this channel was like finding gold. I did some work on my mini based on your advice and found some minor issues. Now waiting for parts to arrive and replace them. Anyways... Love the channel!

[alanm]

I had a turbo fail when driving fairly hard, to blow the soot out of the exhaust on the way to the cars MOT test (UK annual test). The very obvious sign of failure was that I had to change down gears on hills & would barely reach 60 mph. Interestingly it passed the MOT test. The failure was the turbo shaft broken at the exhaust side. 
I got an Ebay used turbo for 40GBP. (Jan 2022). Drained engine oil while hot. Replaced oil filter. Refilled oil.
Next day when old drained oil was cold, (winter) the entire volume of the oil was a jelly, not a liquid. No doubt that's due to the oil contamination due to leaking injectors as explained in this video. (Leaking injectors found 5 weeks later).
Changing the turbo on this engine is one of the easiest jobs ever! Rather than undoing any exhaust manifold bolts or replacing exhaust gaskets (that I didn't get with a used turbo), I removed the clamp around the exhaust turbo housing, on the original turbo & also on the replacement turbo. So I just replaced the entire inlet side of the turbo with the center bearing & both impellers but reused the outside (rusty) steel exhaust casting of the old turbo. (Which remains bolted to the exhaust manifold & the cat).
Cleaned some sludge from top oil banjo union & its bolt. (Didn't touch the lower union at this time).
With the turbo removed, I checked oil feed... Put the turbo oil feed banjo union in an empty jar. So that I could let the starter turn the engine without starting the engine, I removed the immobiliser chip from the ignition key. (You might be able to just wrap the key in foil but I haven't tried that. You might be able to unplug all the injectors - but I'm not sure that's safe for the ECU). Turned the engine over for a few seconds & checked a reasonable amount of oil was in the (previously empty) jar.

Fitted the turbo & oil feed. (Reused old vacuum waste gate actuator).
Turn the engine over again on the starter for a few seconds to get oil to the turbo bearing. Refit the immobiliser chip in the ignition key. With the vacuum tube removed from the turbo actuator, start the engine. With the engine running note the position of the waste gate lever, reconnect the vacuum tube and check the lever moves. Refit covers, job done.
18 months later (when changing the clutch) I had the cat off & took the opportunity to take the entire turbo oil feed pipe off, clean the pipe & the lower banjo with the wire gauze filter. Nothing unusual. Blew it through with compressed air, then brake cleaner.
5 weeks after changing the turbo, I found I had a "chuffing" injector leak. I had to drive with all 4 windows open due to the exhaust fumes, so that wasn't something that was going to continue to chuff for more than a few days! Also moderate "tar" around 2 injectors.
Initially tightening the injector clamp nuts to 7Nm, stopped the chuffing sound but could still smell exhaust in the car. Eventually had them all tightened to 14Nm. Tightened with engine hot, immediately after a 15+ mile drive. Repeated the hot tightening several times (different days) until no more movement at 14Nm. Then check every 6 months or so, at 14Nm with engine hot. (Generally little or no movement).
The reason for engine hot, is so that the "tar" is somewhat soft, which allows the injector to move a bit more each time towards it's proper position, with the proper pressure on the copper washer to achieve an effective seal.
This was 2 years ago. No further leaks. No injector copper washers or seals were replaced.

[reggaenerator]

Bought. 1.6hdi Berlingo last week and came across this channel just few days ago. So much info in one place, well explained. Brilliant work!

[leviathon]

Just bought an old Partner and I need to do a lot of work on it so I have a lot of questions. I got just about all the answers from watching these videos. Amazing! All I need to do now is find some diagnostic software to manage the electrical systems.

[kevvyg]

Brilliant video and explanation, this can also apply to a lot of diesel engines, I have the ‘crusty deposit’ around one of my injectors and will be fitting new seals very soon ! Thank you - and this channel deserves a lot more subscribers !!!!

[vishwarul]

Hi Chris..😜.. Brilliant video as usual.. Just like to add something.. If the turbo fails be sure to clean the oil pan and the oil pickup filter as mine did not get cleaned by the mechanic and sure enough the new turbo failed in 3 months.. The second time around I did the job myself and found the oil pickup filter clogged like crazy causing oil pressure problems. Since I cleaned it out the car has been running like a dream.. Hope this helps someone in a similar situation. Thanks again for the video and keep up the good work.. Cheers

[thedivinetoe]

Absolutely perfect description and explanation...thanks so much!

[testtest]

Thanks. My tubro broke exactly because of that so this is 100% accurate

[islandhopperstuart]

Great summary of the situation with this engine, and entirely consistent with my experiences too. I would add is the following:
If you have carbonised oil inside the camshaft chamber following injector seal leakage, this really needs to be removed, otherwise it will be perpetually breaking-up and contaminating fresh oil. The problem is that getting those crazy injector studs out (M6 one end/M7 the other) to remove the cover is right pain, as is the fact that the camshafts are mounted on the underside of the cover, so it's cambelt off etc etc. I got advice from one forum: "The only solution is to clean the engine within an inch of its life!" and that's what I had to do. It's also important to remove the oil pan and clean-up the oil strainer. Further, it's worth modifying the sump as, being a steel pressing, the female thread is raised forming a 'bund' which prevents full drainage of engine oil and, in particular, carbonised oil debris. So I reckon that if you fully clean the engine, the normal oil change interval will be fine. It's not an inherently dirty engine as many have suggested, just that the injector seals may leak!
In my book it's necessary to recut the injector seal seats in the cylinder head before fitting new copper washers.
In my case, the first indication I had of carbonised oil causing problems was low oil pressure: the warning light came on. So with my Citroen C5 I fitted an oil pressure gauge to give me a first indication of any possible issues.
If you have an injector which is 'chuffing' i.e. leaking severely, you will also see carbon fragments in the underside of the engine cover: a dead easy thing to check.

[dENdMania]

Great advice on checking the injectors.

[timfaupel]

Excellent, thorough & clear advice that makes total sense. Thank you 🍻

[RayMondElec]

Excellent video. Your videos and the way you explain and show things bu far are the best for this engine. Thank you

[laxonetrc]

Thank you Chris you’re star material 😀💪 and thanks for the condensed version of the problems with the 1.6 Hdi

[nutlangsworld]

Excellent video, thank you. I have the Ford 1.6 TDCi and this weekend I`m gonna inspect those Banjo pipes, not having thought about that possible cause of turbo failure. I do have some tar around the injectors so it is a caused for concern. I would have to address that, sooner than later... Oil and filter changes I do every 5000km. Car now has 337000 km. Subscribe button smashed !

[balbeersingh]

Very well illustrated and good quality video.😊

[heros]

Personally, i change the oil on our 2010 4007 2.2 HDi (130, 000 miles) just every 9, 000 miles/15, 000 km. But i stick to the Total Oil you mentioned. It runs really well, no oil consumption. And also, it is not a big deal of changing it.

[AndrewSowerby]

Amazing info. I don't even have a car with this engine (mine has the DW10 2.0 BlueHDI), but I've heard so much about failing injector seals in these engines that I wanted to learn a bit about it, and thanks to you, now I know.