Drill Press Speed, Does it Really Matter? (I Think You'll be Surprised!) // B4 We Make Things

For years I've seen articles and heard people go on and on about how necessary it is to have optimum speed for different drill bits. But...is there any science to any of it? Has the industry been putting us on? Has drill bit technology stepped up to a point where speeds are less important? Find out inside!

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[wb_finewoodworking]

That’s a well thought out and executed experiment. I’ve been drilling holes in wood for since I was in third grade - 1950s - and have always used the slowest speed on the drill press. That’s what my dad taught me to do way back them. I still do it today with good results. As you point out feed rate for the drill bit is a critical factor. Impatience in drilling a hole can cause poor quality holes.

It’s interesting that this topic came up in the Fine Woodworking podcast on Friday. Rollie Johnson, a very accomplished woodworker, was answering viewers questions. He disputed the idea of keeping a drill press at the same speed and stated he always uses the optimum speed for the bit size, bit type and material BUT he uses one of those NOVA drill presses that changes the speed automatically. He simply gives the drill press the specifics and it adjusts the speed.

[MrBonners]

The wavy forstner bit slices a razor score cut but go very low speed, easy to heat the razor thin edge. If you don't care about time and a number of holes then a heavy touch score the wood and the switch to a regular more heat resistant edge forstner bit. Less expensive to replace regular bit. Buy single wavy bits when required. Such precision is usually overkill, fibres will swell slightly and fill minute tear-out. Softwoods being like a bundle of straw will tear out moderately no mater what large-ish bit design you use.
For any sheet Aluminum, Copper, not steel, spur bits at midrange speed work excellent and accurate diameters, perfect square hole edges, keep their sharpness forever.

[georgeburns]

Thank you. 50 years ago I purchased a drill press that had ten speeds. My first project was to drill a 1” hole in stainless steel. I set the drill press to its slowest speed. After that, I never changed the speed. Thousands of holes in steel, stainless, aluminum, brass, bronze, copper, plastics, hard and soft wood, were all done with that same slow speed. Yea, the drill has that speed chart on the side. But I only use the slow speed.

[chuckgoodwish]

I just bought my first drill press. Your video helps me greatly! Thank you for your contribution.

[thorlo]

I bought my current drill press about 15 years ago. That being said, I bought it because it would go slower than my other drill press. I guess I'm just lazy, but I have used that speed ever since, and get good results.

[johncurtis]

Hi buddy, great tips. I turn pens and get a lot of blow outs which destroys the wood blanks so i hope lowering the speed and drilling more slowly helps. Cheers

[MD-enzm]

I have the same drill press and over more than a decade have changed the speed once.

[moonolyth]

For metal the speed seems to be more important. I normally don't change speeds much, but you can read the chips coming off. I find pressure has a lot to do with it also.

[johnmay]

Thanks for the confirmation. I've been doing this for a few years. Against all advice. I had to drill some metal and reduced the speed of my 40 yo Harbor Freight benchtop press. Been working like a charm ever since. Exactly as you say.

[dj-dgwx]

Great video. Any suggestion on:
1.speeds to use wire brush attachment?
2. Where to find pulley configuration for speeds for a two pulley drill press? Not even sure how I would speed up or slow down my press. Thanks!

[sapelesteve]

Well done & the results speak for themselves!

[antahmad]

Thanks a lot! I just purchased my first drill press and was a little confused.

[rexcowan]

Excellent video. I too keep my drill press low and slow. You covered this thoroughly and it was well thought out. Thank you.

[jazbuilding]

Thanks for the video. I have a mediocre drill press (in my videos) and I almost always have it set to the slowest speed. Besides a vast assortment of drill bit styles, shapes, materials, etc, the other variable is drill press force, which we'll take on faith you tried to keep consistent. I appreciate you taking the time to show that low speeds seem to be the safest and most convenient. Usually if I feel the need for speed I use my hand drill (too lazy to change pulleys). Thanks again.

[charliec]

Thanks for taking the time to put this together... one thought though. . clamping wood (instead of hand hold) to prevent movement might have allowed the drill edge to make cleaner cut.

[pjhalchemy]

Nicely done empirical testing Rob. Although there is a lot of science behind sfpm to speed and no. of cutting edges and feed rates, there are so many more real world issues in wood like; knots and variable grain structures (sapwood or spalting) and types. The others are the bits and types as you demonstrate but tooth designs, cutting angles and flutes are the nuances that manufacturers put their name on. Another I noticed on your test and my personal pet peeve, is runout of the bit or spindle which can cause wobble and cut like a burr rather than a bit.

All this said, I agree with your findings, but run my restored 1950 Craftsman/King Seeley 12 speed at ~550 for most operations in wood, metal, acrylic and PE/hdpe and slow it down to ~310 for bits >7/8 and slowest (175) for metal. It generally leaves a clean round hole and almost always countersink or debur. I measured my runout at 3 thou, 4 inches from the chuck with a ground rod and dti...makes a difference. But not all bits are true. Typical specs on a bit diameter are ±.005 and yet the HF 25/64 brad point I have, the runout is out by 15+ thou (1-800-bad-grind) which I use for my 1/4-20 threaded inserts and makes for sloppy driven inserts.

Sorry for the babbling on but working with wood now at my age seems pretty forgiving in most cases with some sanding/deburring and think you are right for most wood workers! Thanks Bud, Nice video and always enjoy what you bring forward! Hat Tip, ~PJ

[MarkMcCluney]

You know mate, when you first mentioned this in a comment a few years ago I was a shade skeptical. I felt that sharpness is king and speed probably makes less difference than we ascribe to it. But that demonstration with the very old bit says everything that needs to be said. I'm converted. Now all I have to do is figure out how to slow down my one speed drill press. Oh, and look up what a 'triscuit' is. Cheers Rob; excellent video mate.

[kenluning]

Just remember it’s wood. Wood is fiber.
Standard twist drill bit design is not efficient when cutting wood.
They are designed and sharpened to meet the requirements of cutting metal.
Forster buts and brad point bits are designed to cut fibrous materials like wood.

They style and type of grind at the cutting edges is just as important as to the sharpness of the cutting edge.

[MrBonners]

don't generally care about minor tear-out and fuzz with softwoods, utility to rustic furniture use, hardwoods cut nice from the start.
Run hole saws slow for the same reasons. Carbide tipped are worth it for longevity, cuts cleaner then you would expect. Buy also as single item as required.

[DesertBumWoodWorkn]

Good Information on the speed of the drill press, so far I bought a drill press about a year age and haven't changed the speed that it came with, but now I'm going to look at it's setup and adjust accordingly. thanks for this demonstration.