Why 98% of knife makers pick the wrong steel according to a metallurgist

Which is the right steel for a handmade knife? Is it 80CRV2 carbon steel or is it AEBL stainless steel? In this knife making video, Graham Clarke of Clarke Knives talks to us about knowing the difference between carbon steel, stainless steel and powder metallurgy (powder-met) steels. We talk about AEB-L stainless, 17N20, 80CRV2 carbon steel, 1084 carbon steel, and many other vanadium-type of steels.

EXTRA THANK YOU to our sponsors for making this videos happen! Kindly click the link below to check out what they specialise in!

#beststeelforknifemaking #80crv2 #1084 #aeb-l #aebl #carbonsteel #stainlesssteel #carbonsteelknife #stainlesssteelknife

[velvetine]

I've watched hundreds maybe even thousands of videos on you tube about the best steel for knives and none of them have explained things quite as straightforwardly and accurately as Graham!

[bereantrb]

These 11 minutes were far more informative than an hour in the forums.

[old_guard]

Everyone with a camera, a computer and an internet connection is an “expert” on YouTube. And every now and then a real expert shows up. Thanks for bringing us this.
(The other regrettable phenomenon is that there always has to be a “best.”)

[robinward]

I'm a retired tool & die maker, and have 2 knives I made more than 40 years ago. One is my moose skinning knife, and the other is my camp knife. I had become frustrated with store bought knives not holding an edge long enough to finish a skinning job. So I made 2 knives from O1 tool steel, heat treated them to 65 RC, and they would hold their edge after 4 skinning jobs, and still be sharp enough to shave with. I would not try to cut nails with them, but, used as I intended them to be used, they have served me well. I crafted leather sheaths, dipped them in melted wax, and have never had a speck of rust appear. Granted, the hardness would not work on a knife being abused in a kitchen, but, as long as I didn't try cutting nails, or stab rocks, they would remain razor sharp, year after year. Moose hair is very hard on blades, and my knives held their end up. I'm too old now to chase moose around and lug them out of the bush, but, I do occasionally take them out and touch up the edge on a diamond stone. I've considered selling them, but, can't bear the thought of someone using them to pry open a can of paint, or using them as a screwdriver, so, I keep them, and remember the moose that didn't get away. My brother would not lay a hand on them, for fear of cutting himself, but I think they are the finest blades I have ever used, and every store bought blade I've used since then have proved to be soft, and unable to hold an edge, useless.









i

[littlebear]

As somebody who took metallurgy and has been blacksmithing most of his life I am so happy to see somebody making a video that actually talks about the metallurgical aspect of blade making

[vgamedude]

Like seeing a knowledgable fellow who isnt insufferable. I appreciate that he is practical and mentions how even more basic steels work just fine.

[teaearlgrayht]

Bravo, a knife maker, who knows about crystallography and powder metallurgy! This is a first. As a powder metallurgist, I completely agree with Graham. Subscribed immediately.

[bullmilk]

I absolutely love the no-frills approach to the explanation, as well as the knowledge that not everyone needs a steel alloy that can cut diamonds. Making a tool’s properties based on its intended use makes infinitely more sense than using the latest and greatest just for the sake of doing so.

Love the video, and I look forward to many more from this channel. 👍

[realmetallurgist]

I'm a degreed metallurgist, and I approve this message. Spot on.

[zigmundslv]

I have this Tojiro Shirogami Santoku three layer japanese carbon steel knife in my kitcen and it is always a pleasure to cut and sharpen this knife. Carbon if for enjoyment, stainless for abuse.

[InkandFish]

I like CPM 3V for blades that need toughness, CPM M4 for edge retention, CPM 154 for stain resistance, and CPM MagnaCut for all three.

[woodchild]

Thank you for this great, informative video! I've been a knife enthusiast for 40 years and have tried out a lot of knifes and steels. I found my peace with simple carbon steel like 1075. For outdoor, carving and kitchen knives. Keeping the blades clean and dry doesn't bother me, and sharpening them from time to time on the water stone is like a little mediation.

[RobanyBigjobz]

Current favourite is AEB-L, heat treated by Graham himself, as it's fairly cheap, takes a good edge, I don't need to worry about rust and I only do stock removal. Best knives I've made so far have been this batch of AEB-L ones.

[Karin_]

I love listening to people talk in detail about their long term professions/hobbies. There's something so nice about people talking about the thing they love and are knowledgeable on.

[augustwest]

He’s correct about HSS.
I use o1 and A2 in my handtools .
M2 and T1 in my machines. And a bit of carbides. T1 is my favorite for jointer knives
I used to wonder why hss isn’t used in knives.
Graham covered the reasons correctly.

[calvinmondrago]

This was great, finally a guy who tells you what you need to know rather than someone who needs to tell you everything they know.

[Rsama]

Nice overview, thank you. I make knives as a hobby (108 knives over the last 10 years. I fully agree with you, there is no perfect steel for any application. A German knifemaker, mettalugist, black smith amd author named Roman Landes described it in one of his books. To make a good knife it requires three factors to consider. The purpose / intended use / geometry of the knife. A carving knife is different than a meat cleaver or a wood chooper. The selected steel must be suitable for the intende use. And last but not least the heat treatment must be correct.
For carbon steel knives I like O1, very rarley I used steels like 1095. I make a lot of kitchen knives and my go to steels are niobium allyoed steels like Niolox or some of the US made steels from crucible. They are not easy to finish but allow for a fine edge. Niobium carbides are equally hard as chromium carbides but much much smaller.

[ah]

Nothing beats old school (knowledge), hence excellent video.

[colafran]

I use 5160 as it is the easiest to get a hold of and has the toughness and flexibility for fighting blades. I have been using AEB-L for stainless steel blades and it has been fantastic.

[TrollingJar]

Thank you for not dumbing it down. Too much of the marketing around knives talks about carbon or stainless steel like they're all the same thing.