Installing My 8Kw Vevor Diesel Heater || Part 2

Installing My 8Kw Vevor Diesel Heater || Part 2

Today I got the Chinese Vevor Diesel Heater going and decided to take the exhaust through the wall instead of putting the entire unit on the outside of the garage.

Link to the Vevor Official Store with a 5% Discount on the heater:

The heater arrived within 5 days and is NOT shipped fron China but from Germany = No Import tax within the EU.



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Im joining the trend of installing this cheap Chinese diesel heater in my workshop for some auxiliary heat when the energy prices are at their highest.

For example: My energy price has gone from a fixed price of 0.18 SEK per KWh to about 10SEK (at its peak) which is about 55X more expensive. Currently its sitting at about 1.5SEK per KWh but fluctuates quite drastically during the week.

The plan is to make this a series of about 3 parts: Intro, Installation and at last tuning the heater to run more efficiently.

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Iam a VEVOR affiliate and earn from qualifying purchases
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Disclaimer:

Due to factors beyond the control of BackmansGarage, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. BackmansGarage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. BackmansGarage recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BackmansGarage, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not BackmansGarage.

[BackmansGarage]

Please Read! If you would like a follow-up video on this after 1 year of use and some q&a, please like this comment and post if you have any questions that you would like to be answered below. Thanks for watching 👍

[PainterD]

Motorcycle muffler insulation or "packing" as it's called works for wrapping the exhaust in to run it thru the wall. You can actually hold it in your hand with unit running. Another option is to wrap it in motorcycle exhaust wrapping. Both work great!

[rednecktek]

You'll want an AC/DC converter of at least 20a rating to feed that heater. It needs about 13a to start between the pump, fan, and glow plug. Once it's fully lit off it'll drop down to about 3a of draw. Anything less than a 20a power supply will tend to sag the voltage just low enough that it sometimes will give you that alarm, especially if/when the glow plug gets a little dirty. Fortunately a 20a power supply is pretty cheap and bulletproof.

[srenfreiesleben]

Nice to see something from a fellow Scandinavian :) I am working on a diesel heater for our camper at the moment, also from Vevor :)

[Uphillfreefall]

Please read!!! I just wanted to say as a new user of this heater. I took it to my 4200sq shop, not assuming it would heat the shop but with 3 furnace’s @45 degrees my bill is over $500 so the purpose of this heater is to keep my feet and fingers warm while I am rebuilding lower units and transmissions. I ran a 25’ vent hose to reach the drive stands. Works perfectly @ #2 on setting. Exit chamber is @180-187* . Today i added length to the exhaust (3/4)x 10’ pipe and within 20min the chamber temp climbed to 210* and the fuel pump was pumping faster. And a combustion smell. To me, that’s a rich/lean condition. Try it yourself. To note: the same applies to HVAC units. ( each 45 adds 2’ in line set.) bottom line less length and wide bends on the exhaust is best.

[GloucesterLGB]

I have my CDH against an outside wall in a cottage with sawn-lap board clad in aluminum on the outside, and plywood paneling over drywall on the inside. When I installed it 2 years ago, I faced a quandary as to how to get the exhaust through the wood-frame and wood-surfaced exterior wall. The only examples I found were through a concrete foundation, or a nearby window that had a fire-resistant panel inserted in place of an opened sash.
Wood normally requires between 4-600°F to ignite, but with prolonged exposure to 150-250°F, it can ignite at as low as 200°F.

My solution was to put a 4" dia hole through the wall - 7" from inside to outside. I centered a 10" section of 4" solid single-wall aluminum dryer vent pipe in the hole. I then placed a 3" diameter of the same length inside the 4" pipe with just enough spun fiberglass building insulation batting to center it inside the 4" pipe. I have a ~1" hole dead center in a 4" aluminum pipe cap on either end that keeps the CDH exhaust centered in the hollow 3" pipe. This rig keeps the outer surface of the pipe at well below 150°F on the inside with ambient of 75°F in the area around the heater with the pump at 2.8Hz. In fact, the surface of the pipe can be touched and held after 24hrs of continuous operation right where it makes contact on the paneling inside and it will not burn your hand - although it would not be comfortable to maintain skin contact for more than several seconds if the heater pump rate is set at 3.5-5.2Hz for several hours. Outside, only the small protruding 1" actual exhaust pipe even has any heat - even at outside ambients as warm as 50°F, the exterior 4" diameter casing and cap is not even body temperature at the higher heater settings. The set up also insures that the exhaust pipe from the CDH maintains enough heat to prevent any condensation in the exhaust as well.

Once the temps outside drop below 45°F, I keep the CDH running pretty much continously. It has a 14VDC Meanwell 14VDC 17a output power supply connected with a 800MCA series 27 Marine battery and a 30a solar system instant'lossless switching relay - so that if the power goes out it will stay running on battery without the controller resetting to standby/off mid-operation and causing a meltdown. The only time it gets a shutdown is if I need to leave for more than 30 minutes or more. Then it gets a rest-cycle. So, I have had 2 years to note any protential problems with the exhaust system.

[marcobrian]

Iv a 5kw in my shed. been in for 3 winters now.
IV only got exhaust going out side....
IV not used de-mid since.
The air intake keeps air circulation....
The rest is dry heated air.

[thisisoff-grid]

You said you wanted to shut it off because it was too smelly?? Can you please explain what you meant because it is not supposed to smell like diesel at all...

[hillaryclinton]

All of mine are indoors.. all mounted half way up the wall with 2 to 3 feet of always sloping down exhaust pipe on them before going through the wall. A small fan blows across it to capture that heat. A car battery with float charger (preference) OR a 30a power supply going th rough a ups powers it. Intake air is from indoors, it will not suck all the air out.. unit continually reheats warming indoor air. Exhaust hole is always 3 inch stuffed with house insulation and a heavy purpose bought exhaust flange outside.

[PainterD]

One more thing you could do to help capture more heat off the unit - run a longer exhaust inside the building before exiting the tube. That will let the hotter length of tubing radiate heat inside before it goes thru the wall. That will be "phaze 4"!

[Ghettochappy]

I would put it in an isolated box outside and pull the inlet air to the heater from inside the house to prevent condensation and then send it in again thru another pipe. Both should fit through that one big hole you already got in the wall. Bara en ide! Bra video!

[rainrabbit]

Glad to see venting heat protection - nice job

[martinpanks]

If you are ever stuck with the holesaw that is wandering around just go through a pice of thin plywood or strong cardboard and that will steady the bit on the next hole.

[jimibmore]

Nice clean installation. Well done. The only thing I would be aware of is the exhaust ground level with snowfall.

[laurencemaddy]

I think you will find that the inlet pipe in the bottom is for the combustion chamber only and should be outside.

[Uphillfreefall]

Also to add to my last book.. No volt meter needed as well. Basic group 27 battery and a $5 trickle is doing the job for me. And like I said the smell I was getting seems to get higher as the chamber temp increase. It’s a flange seal unit. It’s not water proof per say. Level 2-3 seems best. Hopefully this helps someone.

[chrismo]

These heaters have a built-in "low voltage" protection for being wired in to your RV or Semi sleeper, they actually shut off somewhere around 12.2V or 12.4V so the heater doesn't run your battery down too much and your vehicle can still start in the morning. If you are wiring it permanently, either get an adjustable 12V power supply that you can tweak to 12.6 - 12.8V or get a DC-to-DC step-up converter and tune it to that voltage. That will take care of your E2 error codes. These thing pull a little over 60W (if I remember right) while the glow plug is on when it initially starts up and then drops to like 20W when it's hot enough to run without the glow plug.

[JeffJones-kb]

to make a saw hole to a larger size. put the existing size inside the desired size.

[billmorgan]

Special Trick:
When drilling using the large hole drill saw:
Step: (#1)
Only drill (1/2) way through till only the drill just breaks through the other side.
Step: (#2)
From the other side completely drill through wall.
Step: (#3)
Instead use a (3") gas heater vent. (Inner Pipe)..
Step: (#4)
Use black "wetted" fiberglass motor cycle exhaust tape.

[CliffE-kj]

Kollade du temperaturen runt utloppet i väggen, blev det som du hade tänkt med isoleringen?