The Secrets to Dirty Down (the full range) breakdown

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Have you ever looked at a piece and thought hey! Why doesn't my thing look like that? Well for this we can reveal one secret! Come along with Cal and Sunny and learn the secrets of the dirty down products! As they go over what they can and can't do and some things you may not have heard of

0:10 Introduction
0:31 General advice
5:59 Patenia
7:40 Blooming
9:27 Combination
11:06 Integration
13:10 Verdigris
13:57 Moss
15:34 Conclusion
16:33 End credit

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Timecodes

0:10 Introduction
0:31 General advice
5:59 Patenia
7:40 Blooming
9:27 Combination
11:06 Integration
13:10 Verdigris
13:57 Moss
15:34 Conclusion
16:33 End credit

WhatareyouPaintingnow
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This has got to be the most comprehensive video on this product and techniques that I've ever seen.

ShockArclte
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Hey Gang, I'm a huge fan of the effort you put into this and how thorough your process was. As the North American distributor for Dirty Down, I would love to discuss the lengths you're going to create your effect. At conventions across North America I am always able to walk beginners and experts through the process in 2 minutes or less with no heat involved. My concerns:

1. You do not need heat to create the beautiful colors dirty down provides. Not on the bottle nor the model. Heat will only help with the mixing process and heat applied to dirty down will give an unreliable effect.
2. Do not put water in your pot. You mention in the video that at some point you stop getting an effect. This is why.

So what steps do I recommend?

1. Mix thoroughly. 30 seconds on a vortex mixer OR scrape the bottom of the pot to free up the ball bearing and then hand shake for 2 minutes. A dark, sometimes glossy effect is the hallmark of an unmixed pot.
2. Wash onto a surface. Dirty down loves detail and texture. This is when you can dip your brush in water and stipple it into your wet dirty down. The water will help it flow into all the detail with the areas where the water settles being the brightest.
3. Dirty Down is semi-opaque so your base coat matters. I prefer darker tones or orangey browns and then bringing the metal in afterwards by stippling and or dry brushing.

In the end, getting a good effect should be as simple as Mix -> wash. I'd love to talk more about your experiences. I appreciate all the work you do and the enthusiasm you bring to the hobby.
- Goblin's Hut

goblinshut
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Thank guys for the mention! I love how all the tanks look! I'll give a try to some of those paints

lordchammon
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Wow! When I saw this topic on the list I had no idea there would be so much to discuss about how to use Dirty Downs. Thanks for making such a thorough video!

speaktome
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Thank you for educating and bringing more positivity into the hobby❤️

pipelock
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Perfect timing! I’m waiting on some dirty down in the mail

joshvon
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Great video! Very helpful information to use a finicky product.

davelogeman
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Sweet Macbeth reference. Bonus points! Definitely have to rewatch when I get home and can take notes.

bashkaai
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One of the best videos I've ever seen on the Dirty Down products! It's one of those things I keep meaning to get, but don't because of price and for now I've been enjoying the FX paints from AP. Thanks for making this and thanks for continuing to be a positive force in the world of wargaming/mini painting. :)

Brandedwolf
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This is by far the most intricate guide I've seen on these products.

Nallenbot
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Thank you for covering these products!!

anegativeatheist-
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I've found keeping dirty down products in an inner pocket in your coat or something is enough to keep them warm.
That water bowl thing seems a bit overkill imo

thethemperoroftheholybri
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Great job! There are so many reviews of this product that they ignore heating anything and I’m like did you even read the bottle?

CaptinCrofty
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Dirtying in a land down under
Where brushes glow and ravens plunder (yeah)
Can't you hear, can't you hear dat booty? (booty)
You better shake, you better take cover

– WAYPN at work

daedalus
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Since you're in Australia you can get Dulux Rust Effect paint (pluss the activator) - for some reason I think Aus is the only place they sell the product. I got some off e bay that I guess the person had imported and then decanted into smaller pots which was more expensive than it ought to be.

Gogsnik
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Great review & demonstration of the products, but I feel I can get equal or better results with the products I currently use.

thepiratepenguin
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Wait, are those canisters - soda cans with some bits glued on?

Stormeris
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I must have got a bad batch of the verdigris because mine does absolutely nothing. I've stirred it until there wasn't any thickness left, applied it thick thin, pure and watered down, dried with cold air hot air and the most I every got out of it was a single barely visible green speck. I poured some in a pool on cardboard as a test and it turned green with black edges but when normally painted onto a model it just turned into an inky black mess. It seems to work for some people but for me it nearly ruined hours of work. I went back to the tried and true verdigris method: turquoise oil paint thinned with mineral spirit. easy to apply and you know exactly what the result will be right away. Its not a black sludge that may or may not turn the color you want and if you make mistake it wipes easily away.

Nighthaunter-tj
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Use a magnet at the booty of the bottle to get it moved, the shake it

wingwalker