Akiyo Noguchi asks the rules while climbing! | Beta Break Ep.1

Top competition climber Akiyo Noguchi tops a boulder during an IFSC World cup and utilizes the rules of the competition to her advantage to get to the top of the boulder and place on the podium during the competition.

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[garywoods]

As impressive as it was for her to use the hold, I am surprised the judges agreed that it was in play when she asked. Kudos to both the climber and judges on this one. Sadly the routesetters probably ended up with some egg on their faces.

[olivierhuet]

This has to be the most awsome beta break ever. I love that kind of out of the box thinking.

[hellwroughtangel]

read the rules, always read the rules, and then ask for permission. lols

[windriver]

My favorite part of this is the look of joy on her face. She knows that she did was awesome and is super excited by it.

[peachfreude]

If you don't ask, the answer will always be no. She's smart for knowing the rule and use it to her own advantage.

[willardong]

Some years back when akiyo visit singapore, i wanted to take a photo with her after her traversing warm up in a local I waited 45mins for her to finally step down from the wall

Crazy strength!

[audigex]

I doubt I could even use that crimp at all, and here Akiyo is hanging off it having a casual chat with the judges about the route....I love things like that which demonstrate so clearly the difference between an elite athlete and a casual weekender

[johnboling]

Akiyo is my favorite climber to watch. She tries so many things statically or uses her strength and flexibility for unique betas. Such a thoughtful climber who exemplifies a climber in top form and focus.

[heli]

As I was watching I thought the same “hey that yellow feature is not taped out”

[ST-rxvw]

Way off topic here, but this reminds me of a money prize twerking competition that a rapper put out some years ago. Thousands of entries came in of people twerking, but the only person to win was a girl who read the rules. She didn't twerk. One of the rules said that twerking was not a requirement to win.

[sebastianr]

She looks so happy climbing the wall. That's so nice.

[akommy]

Man, I love that smile so much, she knew she was being clever.

[alexhofmann]

Just found your channel and watched everything you’ve posted, edits are nasty and the content is awesome, thoroughly enjoyed

[dogfromotgw]

i think its perfectly fair for her to use it. so much of climbing is thinking outside of what is straightforward or intuitive and she deserves so much credit for that

[paedae]

Nicely done, hope to see some good breakdowns of Jan Hojer surprising routesetters!

[MAMG]

I love watching Akiyo Noguchi-- always a joy to spectate. Hoping to see her at the Olympics next year

[guidofischer]

Great video! Thanks for uploading it. A comment: as you said, rules mention "any part of the Climbing Surface demarcated as..." Black tape, as it is demarcation, is considered part of the route. If you touch it, no judge should stop your climbing. In fact, that is what IFSC's recommendations for judge's work say.

[Alkyar]

This was the first time I've ever heard someone pronounce the "b" in "climber."

[powersergio]

Excellent first video and topic!! I want more videos!! :D

[vinny]

WHAT A QUEEN her temperament was magnetic the whole time