the REAL Ford Death Wobble Fix on a BRAND NEW F350

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Could it be this simple?? As a follow up to my WHY all the other DEATH WOBBLE fixes are no good, here is the SIMPLE step by step guide, done on a brand new F350 dually.

The Ford Death Wobble has been plaguing drivers for many years and the only fix was a band aid at best. The REAL fix lies with just one bushing.

Thanks to everyone who contributed info in the comments of the last video, which was used to make this video much more in-depth and complete!

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Hope this video was helpful! Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to help!

Here are the LINKS:

theNickJolin
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I just did this on my 2016 F250. After watching your video and doing some research I replaced the caster/camber bushings adding 2 degrees of positive caster and kept the .25 degrees of positive camber from my original bushings. The ride quality has improved tremendously and so has my confidence in my rig. EXCELLENT video and I thank you for taking the time to explain and create the video for others to benefit.

michaellicht
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I just helped my brother through this, and thanks to this video, we got it fixed. His is a 2016 F-350 Super Duty Lariat with the 6.7L and replacing the drag link (which was bad at the pitman arm), the steering dampener, and the tracking bar did not solve it. We brought it back in the shop and did the bushings (and also discovered a bad 4WD locking hub assembly), and after replacing that and doing the bushings, the problem went away. I wanted to mention for those interested that the factory bushings were +.25 camber and +0.4 caster, which is not what I found trying to look up the factory specs. We used the same bushings mentioned in this video from NAPA. Keeping the camber at +0.25, we were unable to get the max caster these new bushings allow of 2.5°, it just wouldn't go in maxed out, so we went with +0.25/+2.0 and it easily fit. We should have tried 2.25°, but were tired of fighting with getting it in. 2° was enough to solve the problem. As for getting the factory ones out (Minnesota road salt), we had a heck of a time. You mention tapping on the ball joint stud with the castle nut backed to the top, we found that is not enough and should be the second step once the bushing is free of the knuckle. We hammered on the knuckle so hard that we deformed the outer quarter inch of it and decided to remove the vacuum line and heat the knuckle with an acetylene torch. Once we had it almost glowing, we sprayed WD-40 on the bushing while applying pressure. As the WD-40 cooled the bushing, we felt the slightest creek with every squirt. Trouble was, it took so much heating to get the knuckle hot that the bushing also got hot causing them both to expand. The WD-40 helped re-establish the temp difference contracting the bushing which let them come apart. Once the bushing started sliding out of the knuckle, we then started tapping on the ball joint stud/castle nut to free that from the bushing. The second one we heated too much and the heat caused the grease to come out of the ball joint, so be careful. We don't think we totally ruined it so my brother decided to use a grease injector through the rubber to put grease back in. It is a mighty fine balance between enough heat and pressure vs cooking out grease and snapping the bushing flange off. That part alone took us 6 hours. Good luck to the next person that has to do this! And thank you so very much for making this video!!!!

Channel-xbxt
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As a former Belle Tire mechanic and alignment tech this video is great. I always installed them on the rack. This will not solve worn parts, but Fords were notorious for poor OEM alignment specs. I remember 6 degrees of positive camber on the vans, terrible suspentuon design and no adjustability. Bravo

grandprixgtp
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Hey man I swapped the bushing went got my 2013 F250 aligned and totally fixed my truck!! Thanks alot! Turns out being able to align the truck properly works! Thanks again!

lucasbroadway
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THANK YOU for this video series! I have a 2006 F250 that I've had for 10 years. In Jan 2023 I put a set of like new, good used, goodyear tires on it. I don't drive it much as I have a company vehicle. 2 months later while coming down I-75 in N Florida, I hit a POT HOLE and that started my death wobble experiences. I figured I had knocked a wheel weight off the truck. It happened one more time on that trip. I had the balance checked and the tires are still perfectly balanced. A few more trips to N Florida and back from Tampa and I just avoided as many potholes as possible and have not had the DEATH Wobble again, until last month, June of 2024. I going about 70MPH, in the center lane, It was SO BAD that from the center lane that the truck was going for the center jersey wall/wire and I couldn't steer it away from it going there, I HAD to hit the brake HARD to at least slow the impact, and FORTUNATELY, as soon as the truck slowed under 55MPH, the DEATH WOBBLE stopped and I merely missed the wall/wire by about 1 foot. Since then, I stepped up my research on the DEATH WOOBLE. LOTS of videos on the band-aid fix of adding steering dampeners. That didn't seem to be the fix in my eyes AT ALL, so I kept researching and have FINALLY stumbled on your videos and this REALLY REALLY MAKES SENSE! I am ordering the bushings from Amazon and will be replacing them next week. I will try to come back here with an update. Again, THANKS for your videos on this and nice job on the shameless plugs in your videos. Good luck on your internet ventures.

joeybarkanator
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Thank you so much for this video. I’ve been having the death wobble on my 2014 f350 dually. Have replaced the stabilizer and that only helped minimally. Not much play in other steering components. Was about to purchase all new components for the front end but will try this first. Again, thank you.

danarnold
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Dude, you killed this video. Amazing job. Thank you thank you for this!

ThoseRedTrucks
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Most alignment shops will not align your truck. If you have those on there they want to go back with a solid bushing. Because those adjustable bushings move and I cost $500 to do an alignment on one of those trucks. I charge labor to take the bushings out put them back in and then do a heavy duty alignment about five $600. It’s crazy.

YoungOzzy
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I bought my 99 F250 brand new. 2wd, v10.
It just turned 117k miles. I know low miles.
I’ve had very lil problems with the truck over the 25 years.
Took it to a local mechanic to have some routine maintenance…
check brakes,
and whatnot.
Now I have the death wobble but my camber caster looks way different.
Now I have the death wobble

larryfetters
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Boop, Boop!
I subscribed.
I started this video, left to go watch the other video and now I'm back to watch this one.

pappysproductions
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As someone who does alignments I’ve never seen this. Can you adjust the bushing with the tires on and weight of the vehicle on the front suspension (during the alignment)?
Thanks

scotttuttle
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When you do the drivers side do you reverse the bushing? I did not get the adjustable kin and if you put the slot toward the rear of the truck on the passenger side it looks like it will have to be toward the front on the drivers side. Am i thinking correctly?

MarkGreer-fw
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after replacing everything these caster bushings fixed death wobble.. I appreciate this video

Peaceful_waters
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Interesting. Well, Ford completely rebuilt my 2012 F-250SD 6.7 at 98, 600 miles and so it was covered under warranty, however, it didn't last. Now at 180, 000 I am once again exploring the fixes! That said, I would like to note that by replacing a set of tire each time I have addressed the wobble (horrendous), it completely eliminated the wobble until now. You did all the research and don't want to start over, so I am going to give your fix a try. Because to couple hundred more dollars, it is not going to break the bank! I'll let you know how it turns out!

Fingers crossed!
Thank you

BigRed-
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On your original video of fixing the death wobble, you mentioned that it needed to be set at 3 degrees positive.
I am currently trying to find one for a 2011 f350.
The closest I can find is up to 2.6 degrees, and there are so many different ones.
Call the ones on line and talk to parts store clerks and noone can tell me exactly which one I need.
How did you establish which one is correct for your job?

Chris-bue
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I have a 2011 right side has 4.0 positive castor the left side has 4.4 negative castor can I adjust just the left side? Thanks Great video sometimes I hate these trucks.

richadroseland
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I have recently put a 4 inch bds lift kit with radius arms in my truck. In the computer it shows my caster in spec, however; when I drive it pulls horribly to the right. I’ve heard of each ford having different specs from factory. Do you think the bushings could be the solution ? I’ve been to a few places that are able to get it right on the computer but pulls horrinky right. Everything is fine with lift and components.

BLewin-vi
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Nick, Did you label your before and after photos wrong? I thought you wanted more rake back after the bushing install. I am not seeing that in the photos as labeled.

Steve-fpyw
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And where did you get an Express? Never saw them sold in CA.

BigRed-
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