Replacing a leaking pinion seal on Volvo 240. (Differential seal)

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Replacing a leaking pinion seal on 1989 Volvo 240 DL. 210000km

Seal: 9143317

Link to moose accessory for purchase.

Thank you.
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THank you for your thorough explanation done at a pace I can appreciate! ! I have watched your other videos and you are an unsung hero!

kevinmahoney
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Job well done! It’s a nice 240 you got there, good that you are taking care of it. Have a good one from Sweden 🇸🇪

StefanBergman
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I have to do this on my 1989 244 DL. Very helpful video, great pace.

janitorjermz
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Great video, thanks! Big help when replacing the pinion seal on my 1967 Volvo Laplander. More or less the same design.

tboolsson
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Mark on nut might be for the tighten settings, sometimes it's specified a torque plus XX degrees of turn. The mark enables the extra degrees to be visually checked apon rotation.

luggie
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There is the same mark on the shaft as on the nut. It's for torque purpose, being a fine thread there is a risk of over-tightening, so they mark it after the torque was reached!

srnc
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Good to loosen the filler nut before dropping the fluid out. The fluid level is harder to figure when the car is lifted but a happy differential will forgive you for getting some extra fluid..fresh fluid. :))

ikutiap
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Nice Job, I would consider doing an Ice blasting under the car to make it look brand new and spray a fresh wax seal

autosport
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Did you ever change the timing belt, wp and multi belts on a D5 after MY 2011? It seams to be more difficult than the earlier models!?

jussiketels
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When reinstalling pinion flange, you’re supposed to set pinion preload by using a rotational torque gauge, and use a new crush sleeve.

SiteUnscene
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Great video. Only recommendation is that I would have torqued the pinon nut and not just used the impact gun. Supposedly the preload is very important and needs to be tightened to spec. Most likely you’ll be just fine.

Orlandsky
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Conventional wisdom would recommend a NON petroleum based lubricant for the pinion seal housing. Petroleum based lubricants can eat up the new seal but silicone based lubricants, adhesives, sealants generally last longer.

stephencannon
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Thank you for sharing the maintenance about Volvo. Very clear, informative and outstanding vids thanks a lot dude! I’m not a Volvo owner before and was thinking of buying a used one the P2(2008-2010) and the P3(2011-2013) model T4/T5, 2.0-2.5L Petrol Turbo version, was looking at S60/XC60/V70. What’s your thoughts and advices on that in-terms of long term and maintenance cost? What are the important things to look out for when buying a used Volvo? I’m living in the plc where all year round warm/hot (25-35 deg Celsius) and humidity (>90%). Thank you once again for awesome vids!!

东东-jb
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Always recommend taking the diff oil fill bolt out first before anything. Worst thing ever if you can't refill your empty diff.

motocrazy
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Hello .. I enjoyed this useful interview while I was one of the owners of a Volvo S80 model 2008 Turbo 2.5 It was very impressive .. I have a request please can you help me to get company or garage numbers that provide machines and transmissions for Volvo cars and export them abroad?

MzoOo
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Working with an axe on your car. Nice.

jaspermouws
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I like your channel. First to give you an up vote☝.

waskyhenry
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I would use some oil, same as in differential, between shaft and seal...

srnc
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Колосальная разница содержать эту вольву и современную xc70, на своем опыте говорю! На каком языке, легче вести канал??

ИванШереметев-щл
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You probly forgot cleaning and lubing the most important surface, namely the one that rotates with the shaft inside the seal!!!

conceptalfa