Science: How to Buy the Best Parmesan Cheese

In the test kitchen we go through a LOT of Parmesan cheese. And our taste tests show us time and again that real Parmigiano-Reggiano, while more expensive than imitations, is worth every penny. Because we go through so much, we often buy huge quarter wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano and break them down ourselves into smaller wedges. While doing so we’ve often noticed that the cheese towards the rind is crumblier than that in the center. And some of our test cooks swear that the exterior cheese has better flavor and boasts more of those pleasant crunchy crystals. But is that possible? Is there really a big difference between the exterior and interior? And should that inform which part you buy? We set up an experiment to answer all of these questions.

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We first set up a blind tasting of samples of cheese taken from 3 locations on one wheel of 18-month-old Parmigiano-Reggiano. We took the samples from the very center of the wheel, from a location 1 inch in from the side and bottom rind, and a third location right between these two points. In a blind tasting, we asked tasters to describe the texture and flavor of each sample and rank them based on overall preference. Next, we took additional samples from the center and edge locations, shaved them into thin strips, and manually counted the number of crystals in each.

The result? Tasters were clear about their preferences. The sample taken closest to the rind ranked first. It was “nutty”, “complex”, and “pleasantly crumbly”. The sample taken from the very center of the wheel ranked at the bottom. Tasters found it “mild”, with a “smoother”, “plasticky” texture. The sample taken in between these 2 points scored 2nd place and was described as “middle-of-the-road” in terms of both flavor and texture. What about those crystals? Well they form as the cheese ages and dries out and the insoluble amino acid tyrosine aggregates into clumps. The cheese right next to the rind averaged 20 crystals per 10 grams of cheese while the center cheese averaged less than 9 crystals per 10 grams.

What accounts for this? When cheese ages it undergoes a complex process called proteolysis which changes its texture, melting qualities, and flavor. Our tests suggest that cheese changes over time in the same way that a roast heats up in the oven—from the outside in. Dean Sommers, cheese technologist at the University of Wisconsin-Madison agrees. According to Sommers, the outer portions of wheel of real Parmesan cheese will show the telltale signs of advanced aging—a dry, crumbly texture, a high proportion of tyrosine crystals, and a deep, complex flavor.

Moving forward we’ll definitely be seeking out corner pieces of Parmigiano-Reggiano at the supermarket. Not only will we get the authenticity guarantee of the stamp on the rind, we’ll also be buying the best part of the wheel.

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[garith]

time to start making some donut shaped cheese wheels

[RaspK]

It ought to be noted that similar properties are found closer to the rind of other cheeses shaped in wheels as well for the same reasons; I remember since being a kid that I always found the edges of gruyere and graviera (basically the Greek adaptation of the original cheese) being _way_ more deeply-flavoured than the core of the wheel.

[TheTundraTerror]

"A cheese technologist at the University of Wisconsin."

Because of course.

[elizabethjanka]

i love that you guys dig this deep. thanks for the information -- i often avoid the corner pieces when shopping because they are harder to grate. NO LONGER!

[trishrobinson]

Fascinating and informative.
And about my favorite food group, cheese.

[pamelakelly]

Thanks for posting this video. I have wondered this myself for a long time. Good to know the facts and purchase the best flavored cheese possible.

[TheG]

I know this video is 8 years old, but without searching for this video just finding it on the playlist, after looking at best places to buy parmesan this comes up! Amazing, great work.

[andrewt]

I bought my first chunk of PR last week and it has the rind. Nailed it!

[debitucker]

What a surprise to see a familiar face teaching me about cheese. Thank you Dan.

[SCUBAJAY]

I love cheese and always want to get the best part. Thanks for the information

[WhoElseButZane]

aww shit imma get myself some Zanetti its full of those crystals.
but for real, very good video on your part and this has become one of my favorite channels. ive been on the cheese hunt as of late. keep up the good work.

[calebmerritt]

Is there any specific reason that parmasean is made in wheels? Could you form it into a shape more conducive to the aging process, like how there are brownie pans with ridges that make it so that every piece is an "edge piece"?

[robbconn]

great video and I totally cocur with the results.

[darrelcdammann]

Yep, accurate can't go wrong with parmesan cheese 😍👍

[DannoCrutch]

People think they're getting ripped off when they buy a piece with so much rind on it. Use it in some Italian Soups or Chicken Soup for a wonderful flavor.

[debitucker]

Recommended reading- "Fake Food" describes the joy of real food as opposed to the counterfeit products that flood the market in the US where there is very little oversight.

[MightyMke]

interesting – makes you wonder whether the wheel-shape is the right choice in the first place.

[jasperday]

cheese technologist is my dream job title

[vegeta]

Wouldnt it make sense to make the wheels smaller and doughnut shaped? That way you would be getting more area for crystal formation.

[MadNotAngry]

A phrase never allowed to be uttered in my home:

"Left-over cheese."