Why Loggers Run Upside Down Chainsaw Bars

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[stevelindsay]

For anyone who wants to know how to tune your Chainsaw bar, there is some very simple yet very important things you need to do, , and you will get ten times the life out of a bar than had you not done this maintenance..
First off, If you are cutting clean wood for either firewood of sawlogs, you won't be sharpening your chain very often..
In that case your bar will end up with a burr where the chain rides in the rail, "That needs to be filed flat"..
When you take your bar off to do this maintenance you will see that if you use your thumb nail and drag it where the chain runs in the rail, but on the flat of the bar, there will be a burr, Use you flat file, , The same file for filing your rakers and remove the burr..
Secondly buy the tool for putting the right gap back in the rail the chain rides in...
It's a small tool that closes the gap of the rail to the correct size that wears and opens from use.
These are just little things us loggers do that most people never learn..
We get a ton of use out of a bar that cuts tens of thousands of board feet of timber in a season..
After ever SECOND sharpening use the flat file and file the raker with one stroke the length of the file, and NO MORE.. This will bring the raker down proportionally with the tooth.. When sharpening a saw with a standard round file, if you give one tooth three strokes, you give them all three strokes..
It should never take more than that is you are doing the maintenance to keep the saw cutting properly..
NEVER HIT THE DIRT.. If you hit the dirt with your chain, it will need to be sharpened right away, DON'T keep cutting.
If your saw is cutting correctly it will be making wood chips, not sawdust..
If it's not putting out chips, then it's dull and needs to be sharpened...
Only flip the bar if there is a burr, file the burr off by placing the file on the flat of the bar and file it smooth, then flip the bar are remount it..
Keep the right gap in the chain rail.
File the rakers every second chain sharpening with one stroke of the raker file.
Use a round file with file guide that has the angle of the tooth inscribed on the file guide.
Keep the chain sharp.
The correct tension is when you can pull up on the chain with moderate pressure and it not lift out of the rail the chain rides in.
Be safe, A Sharp Chain is a safe chain, but a deadly chain if you are not extremely careful.
Loggers Know That It's an Odds Game.. Every Day They Enter The Bush To Harvest Timber There Odds of Getting Hurt Increase.
Don't Push Your Luck Or The Odds Are Not Going to be In Your Favour.
and God Bless One and All, , Be safe out there, , and smart...

[jimmystractors]

Good video! We get customers who have cut wood for YEARS who don't know this.
Another tip: if your saw will not cut straight, 1) be sure the chain is sharpened properly and the depth guides filed properly. If it still wont cut straight and the bar isn't bent 2) We sand off the burrs that inevitably gather on the edge of the rails where the chain rides and run the bar down a disc sander thats perfectly perpendicular to the rails of the bar. After the 1st pass you can see where any low spots are or see that one side is lower than the other. This makes the chain sit on the bar at an angle. Keep running it down the disc sander until both rails are shiny and you see no low spots. Repeat for the other side, then blow out/clean the bar from any sander material/metal grit. This dramatically improves how straight it will cut.

[markroper]

Knowledge doesn't become wisdom until it is passed on. Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Great video!

[alfredpgarcia]

Thanks for the great tips. Just bought my first chain saw and has made my life a lot easier and for me safer.

[josephg.]

Thank you, Cody.  I was never taught any of this before so I never took care of the chain saws I've used properly.  Now I know better and will do better.

[SeminoleSpaceForce]

I don't know why I watched this video.

I don't even own a chainsaw.

[jimhumphrey]

Although I've been flipping my bars for 45 years to get a little more life out of them it never occurred to me to do it every time I sharpen. I've been waiting until the bar is mostly trashed before flipping. Just goes to show that we can learn something new every day. Now at my age the trick is to remember this :)

[essinem]

I don't have much experience sharpening chainsaw chains, but my first thought when you mentioned the bars wearing out much faster when filing the teeth on the saw was metal shavings from the tooth filing getting into the chain and down into the bar where it would stick due to the bar oil, essentially becoming an abrasive. I could be wrong, but it may be a factor.

Either way, love your videos!

[gavmansworkshop]

I prolong the cutting edge by running my chain backwards.

[mikerobbins]

Even though I am not a frequent user of a chain saw, I have been around them and used them for 50 years. I never knew anything about flipping the Thanks Cody....

[JimProng]

Good tip on measuring the wear on the bar. Same goes for keeping the oiling system clean and efficient. Thanks!

[BayouCountryPowerSaws]

You can extend the life even further by squaring the rails back up true and then using a bar rail closer to close the groove back to spec so there is no side to side slop.

I really enjoy your videos, keep it up!

[srenaskjr]

Probably the best chainsaw input I ever got...Thank You very much

[TheSoloDIYer]

Incredibly informative! Thank you very much for making this video. I never knew when to replace a bar, and I never knew about flipping the bar to extend the life.

Made my night!

[tonyneises]

This is some great basic advice....nice job! Thanks for taking time to make these videos ... good stuff!!!

[mollymaccorkle]

A couple things, I worked in a saw shop and learned from the best. A simple one is to run a putty knife down between the rails and get the junk out. That is the path the oil moves in, sawdust blocks that movement.
Just because the chain wobbles doesn't mean you through the bar away, it needs dressed. Dressing takes off the top edges, (removes the top of the V taking a lot of the movement out). It is done with a special grinder, with a flat place to rest the Bar at a right angle. If you have any saw shops in your area, call and ask if they "dress bars", it is an art. I am sure cost may vary, but for most likely under $20, it is well worth it to extend the life of an expensive Bar. Bar tips are also replaceable on a lot of bars, if the ends look like his, not solid. If getting a bartip replaced, a bar is almost always dressed so it is matched to the bar.
A bar is totally worn out when the teeth on the chain start to ride on the bottom of the bar groove. If the bottom of the drive teeth show ANY wear that flattens them out, the bar is shot, you begin to ruin chains. Also anytime you have your bar and chain off, check the condition of your rim or sprocket. It is a 3 part system, if one part is shot, it starts wearing another. A chain that is stretched too much can wear out a bartip and rim, a bad rim, can wear a chain...
Use real bar oil, don't cut down the rackers to far (use a gauge), that will stretch your chain and can ruin your tip and rim, and don't force a dull chain!
Oh and if you see your chain starting to get too loose, stop and tighten it, snug, but not too tight, a loose chain slapping on the bar can cause your bar grooves to wear faster.

[howjohndoesit]

Thank you for the lesson I am 65 and never knew that. This is why I’m a dedicated subscriber!

[karlarmbrust]

I try to blow out my bar with compressed air regularly to keep the rails and the oil port clean.

[JoeA]

Well dang Wranglerstar I was figuring that there was probably little new I would ever learn from you. I've been a Master plumber for almost 20 of an almost 30 year career and you just taught this old dog a new trick

[stevehenkel]

This was very refreshing, Cody. Almost a kind of back-to-basics. Can't get enough of these kinds of videos. 🙂