RV Tech Shares A Great Valve Replacement Idea! I Can't Believe RV Manufactures Don't Do This!!!

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Tank valve replacement is super easy to do but placement and the underbelly makes the job super hard! This video will help combat this! || Like || Subscribe || Share || #fulltimerv #blacktank

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dude the plumbing under that RV is horrendous, how do you deal with that????

donslick
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Repeated failure of the seals on tank valves is caused by either dumping the tank without enough water in it, or using tank treatments and cleaners that are too aggressive with their ingredients. Also, you can't use residential cleaning products like tub/shower foam, bleach, toilet bowl cleaners or other corrosive products. They eat away at the seals and sensors in the tank. RV cleaning products don't work as well, but they are made to not harm the system.

ArnoldHansen-qe
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Do you know what a c-clamp is? Sorry!!!

johncooper
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Well I guess I know what to look forward to. I have a Keystone Montana High Country and it has that same corrugated board underneath it. I had the main black/gray tank valve cable(s) replaced because it didn't have a good seal on it and the gray water would seep through and the black water would not open to release and it was full and it weighed down the corrugated board during transport back from our trip and now it hangs down low. I'm surprised that there isn't another solution for this. I would like to see a flat piece of sheet metal with cut outs for piping and small access doors to get to valves. Well maybe it's wishful thinking 🤔 🙃😁

johnrodriguezjr.
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Good video, I've had to replace mine a few times as well. Used the incorrect tape and lost a big section or coroplast, and some other issues. I would go one step further to make things even WAY easier.... Take those stupid valves and Y connector off from the tanks and just run the pipe all the way to the outside edge and then put a regular valve there instead of those cable ones that get jammed up. You could even do two separate valves for Black and gray and then run them to a Y connection outside. I think that would take a lot of that really low hang out of yours. I would hate for that to hit or hang up on something and snap it all off. Plus, you would never have to get inside the underbelly again....unless you need to change a tank again....hopefully not. I think I am at that point as mine is leaking somewhere on the top. Anyway....just a thought for you. I am about to do that on mine and re-route them so I can stop having to crawl under a dang slide out to connect and to pull the valve handles.

JamesL
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Do you ever plan on testing towing with a 2.8L Duramax GMC Canyon?

OnlyAura
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I’m with Slick, my OCD would absolutely not allow me to have a plumbing system that looks like that.

kennethpalmerii
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A simple 1X4 board cut the with of the coroplast and 2 clamps will assist you in getting that underbelly close right back up the way it came from the factory. I do it all the time. Slick as snot.

robertbarcus
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I do not look forward to replacing my valves

nathanurick
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Great info! As frustrating as RV maintenance can be it is still worlds apart from the typical cost and frustration of a sticks and bricks. Give me a couple home bases in great locations and an RV w/a nice floor plan and I'm in heaven! Been looking at Class B's, B+ and C's. Some amazing floor plans these days and most of them are under 25'!

danah.
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Great video on a topic you shouldn't have to cover. Seems like a design flaw and terrible craftsmanship. I've had the panels off our 2022 GD 337RLS and it is a complete joke what they are hiding. I can confidently say there are hundreds of extra feet of wiring and plumbing just laying criss crossed and tangled amongst the frame and ductwork. Keep up the good work. Who Work!? JB Work!

supporterofsanity