Cutting aluminum and acrylic with the table saw

This is the 80 tooth non ferrous TCG Diablo blade from Freud. All cuts were made with out lubricant and the majority of the cuts were made on solid 1-1/4" x5" 6061 Aluminum.. I also used the same blade to cut parts for the wooden sled and plastic guard with great results.

I have used regular wood ATB blades to cut aluminum and while it will work... this blade does make a significant difference in cut quality and ease of cutting. It did not provide a 'fly cutter' like finish on the cuts but it did cut true and smooth, polishing most of the cut on many passes. Blade deflection will be minimal on thicker solid parts.

Although the video only shows a few cuts, I made many more passes on the aluminum materials testing different configurations with full pass and blind cuts. At the end of the testing the blade still looks new with no signs of usage on the carbide.

I am impressed and it beats using the band saw to perform straight line cuts. Makes me want to try out their ferrous blade...

[MrDanthemaniam]

Draw a tiny bead of Alumtap on the stock where the blade will intercept it. I use a 1oz poly squeeze bottle and about a 20 - 30 ga needle. It's total FM. You will get a mirror like cut, Your problem is the aluminum sticking to the carbide. I wouldn't matter what kind of tool you used if you don't have something to prevent adhesion.

[zeekthehammer]

I would never expect a cut to be polished when the fact that aluminum can be cut with a saw is fantastic in the first place.

[dejapex]

Thanks for the video. Your attention to detail is appreciated. I am about to make many cuts on thick aluminum. Your hints and the helpful comments will definitely make the experience much smoother.

[norgermish]

As far as I can tell, the reason for the finish not coming out as you wished is because the larger stock you used needs to be clamped. The 1'4' stock came out nicely because there is not as much force against the blade (especially on the first contact with the blade, and hand strength might be enough to hold it. Clamping the larger stock in place allows for more stability when the blade first hits the material. A mirrored finish is basically just more consistent and finer scratches in the metal. Slower feed, less movement/vibration makes a more consistent finish especially at the entrance and exit points. Cool video, thanks:)

[stevenmoomey]

For Cutting Acrylic, I Spray DuPont Teflon Dry Lube on the Blade. I Rub Bee’s Wax on both sides of the Acrylic at the cut line. Leave the Paper on and Rub the Bee’s Wax on the paper.

[williesimpson]

The double runner sled is great! The blade stiffener disc is great too!

[edclayton]

I got to get one of these! I really like your video and I like your ideas for holding the work and protecting your eyes. Its all great stuff! Thanks for sharing! Also the wax helps keep the cast iron on the table from rusting as well as making the material slide across it better.

[marathondude]

good tip about the phenolic bit for cutting through the plastic for the shield.

[chriss]

Good blades. I’ve used 6 through the years and they have held up well.

[Xtafa]

Any tips for only cutting half the depth? Or is that asking for trouble. Can't see any videos on it

[MySpace]

Educational video, Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.

[YourOldDog]

You aren't cutting aluminum, you are shaving it. Take a cut where both sides of the blade are supported and that will correct the problem. I have a small antique craftsman 6" table saw and cuts beautiful but then I am never shaving.

[camerahammerwoody]

I can't help but feel that with the heavier/thicker piece metal, cutting right on the edge as you did, it was a deflection problem as the blade was not being supported on both sides.
I know with a mortiser you encounter a deflection problem if there is not a equal amount of support on both sides of the bit assembly.

[mattmoon]

we use chop saws to cut aluminum if you have problems with the aluminum building up on the blades start giving it a quick shot of wd40 before your cut

[phillipja]

Nice educational video. I think your 10in Diablo blade has a very thin body thickness, which means that the blade is not stiff enough and will bend when beginning a cut into hard and thick aluminum plate, causing deflection scarring. Also, 80 teeth will not give you a very fine smooth cut in thick aluminum or wood. You should try using a 10in 120tooth blade with a body thickness of 3mm or more to get a super smooth cut, with no deflection in thick aluminum plate 2in or more thick.

[maheshsuthar]

awesome video, awesome idea and awesome skills mate. Thank you dude

[alexlearns]

I dont know if your second sled is completely square

[cedarspringdesign]

The front of your fence should be much thicker to prevent the saw blade from cutting your palm wide open.

[RoyAndrews]

Stupid question, but figured I'd ask anyways. Did you use a high quality engineers square to make sure the table and blade are 100% square? That's another possibility. Probably the most common, besides the blade deflecting or shifting out of the way.

[mikeokizichy]

Could you tell me what router bit you would use to clean that up? I use carbide spiral bits on plexiglass with a thin aluminum skin, which work great, but am wondering if there is something else out there. Thanks