Ender 3 - Fix Warped Bed, Bed Leveling, and the Best Print Surface

This is how I fixed the warped bed on my Ender 3, but this method could work for basically any 3D printer. I also show my process for tramming (leveling) the bed. I am currently using a G10/FR4/Goralite print surface and I don’t plan to change that any time soon, it has been fantastic!

0:00 - The Intreoductory Intro
1:04 - G10 Print Surface
5:20 - Fixing Bed Warp
8:22 - Tramming the Bed

[The_Social_Dude]

OMFG, finally a viable solution! Thank you, dear algorythm for suggesting this to me!!!
And thank you for coming up with this solution, at least you're the first person I encounter with a dedicated video to this issue.
May the FDM be with you.

[robertpelland]

Installed the G10 sheets on all my printers, and the comments made above regarding the advantages are SPOT ON. These build surfaces, are the best thing since sliced bread. BTW fantastic is an understatement.

[fb]

This video was so helpfull, I finally understand the problem. For the people that do not want to adjust the problem with tape, during the process of fixing the warped bed problem and the help of this video I fixed the issue with the glass plate that came with the printer and this fixed it already I prefer a magnetic bed so I installed it on too the glass bed and the problem was gone without the use of tape😅

[BartowBunny]

Finally found someone that actually fixed my issue thank you so much for this helpful video

[thebeardeddon]

instead of using the paper you can use the feeler gauge to set the tip at a more exact height.

[michaellim]

The best investment I made for my Ender 3 was to add a BL touch, upgraded to Jyers firmware (free), and add a auto bed level G29 G code to the starting G-code in the slicer. This does the bed level at printing temp before every print. I selected the 5x5 probe point version and it takes about 5 min before each print. The advantage is that you can change bed material and it will level regardless of imperfections of the different materials you use

[mickhansen]

I just found one of my E3's bed has a real nasty crown front to back, but even all the way across.
I think I'm gonna try this!!! Thank you!!!

FYI:
That stock Ender build plate is also G10. I peeled that black layer off both of my E3's platforms. Heat the bed to 60C with the plate on it. Once it hits 60, pull the plate off and start peeling. It's on there real good, but that G10 can take a beating. If it gets too hard to peel, put it back on the bed for a few minutes, and pull some more. Clean the residue off with some Goo-Gone (look it up). Final clean with some DNA. Elmer's and H2O from then on.

I like the idea of the aluminum tape. It's a solid spacer that will also allow heat to move.

[Zwaser]

Great video, didnt even think of this! My plate is only sticghtly warped, if i level all 4 corners, on the edges and in the middle i can fit 2 sheets of paper instead of 1. Will try to get my hands on some of this tape. Atm i just babystep z for small prints :p

[piotrbak]

That video helped me with fixing my Vyper bed. Thanks.

[nikosdrogosis]

I would suggest to do the adjustments diagonally for the sheet of paper. Like top left, bottom right, top right bottom left.

[NAODD]

I'm getting frustrated with my Bed level in The 4 corners seem like they are barely touching the paper. When I level them enough to grip it slightly. Every corner is exact near enough but the middle just isn't. I brought a new bed and it's still the same

[tzsetzse]

Well, I got impatient. I got my G10 at 12x12. I could not get it snap after scoring the lines so I took my Dremel to it. What a mess, lol. Unfortunately, my final cut is exactly the same as the heat plate as I forgot to add 2mm all around. Plenty of room to do so but I screwed the pooch this time. So, no overhang on the print bed! The bigger challenge was removing the magnetic adhesive on the hot plate. I finally managed to peel it all off and then spend 1/2 hr. removing the sticky residue. All done. Pray this works out for my printer. Thanks!

[radmin]

I've never gotten good with paper.. I use a clip on dial gauge. $14 from harbor freight. = dead accurate level. There is 0 guess work.

[Doogleraia]

Been using a creality PEI sheet, and the center will often be lower than the corners, but it seems like it's the corners lifting over time on the sheet, and bed being of no issue.. which is extremely annoying, because traming it doesn't really help then 😅😅 pondering a G10 sheet, but not sure what they are like for warp over time

[MichelJosephCardin]

It's as had taken a while to think of this but for one thing; the beds on these should be never anything but a cube if need be; I mean that it should be thick enough that it cannot be anything but straight; and then if there would be such issues as then the travelling of the head of not being perfectly running squarely; then there would need to have a runner that dictates how high the tip is and this runner can only be under the bed; where if spring loaded upwards as if to keep away the furthest from the bed and the runner having it always kept down and as the runner always is exactly at the same spot as the tip and if the bed is exactly always the same thickness; then if it is setup well; it should work. Or why would it not be that there are four corners that determine the height by the use of each a screw that is mounted on a solid flat bed( like any other tool out there). Like a planer has; way too much maintenance is needed to work with these. Why ever would it be logic to have two separate strait edge parts for the keeping of a precision tool tip aligned? This all because of materials costs and weight of shipping I suppose. Ideally; it should be built within an iron bed such as similar to a table saw table grade of solid and oversized with two racks running two pignons each that hold two other racks that are mounted to a solid plate where the nozzle does not move and the is the one that starts up high at the nozzle and has a screw at each corner that moves it down with exact precision. And eventually; with this method; they can have a plate with extrusion pores that cover the whole plate and nothing would need to move other then vertical as a constant instead of steps(maybe); where a constant flow of complete printing where the whole object will seem to be coming out of the extruder surface. Cheers. I've predicted many of things and can't remember of any that haven't happened. I might just not remember of some but I doubt it though. Ah ya ok here it is; water cooling as it goes downwards withing the water cooling bath where the extruding goes on at a controlled distance above the water level. LOLOL I bet you it will take until year 2026 for them to get that. Watch and I'm sick of writing on hear and so I'm outta here man.

[tzsetzse]

I have the 3 Pro. It has a magnetic adhesive layer on the build plate. So I peel the magnetic sheet off the aluminum bed first, clean off any residue and then clip on the G10 build surface?
What thickness did you go with 3/32" or 1/8". What filaments do you use? It appears these phenolic plates only are tested to 280 degrees F. How long and how hot have you ever done a single print?

[GeezerGramps]

There are several gcodes that will move the head from screw point to screw point.

[tonyarbour]

Great tips. Have you tried different filament, ABS vs PLA, with the G10 bed? ABS being a pain.

[ZIAD]

I have a bl touch and use that for bed levelling and still have warping problems. Why wouldn’t you do the levelling warm if youre having warping problems?

[SEVEN]

I'm actually having a hard time getting a proper bind. Do you guys clean it with anything special?