How To Change Brake Fluid ALONE in 3 MINUTES

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Brake Fluid Change ALONE in 3 MINUTES and bleed brakes - life hack

Car: Ford Focus III 2012
Type of brakes: ATE single-piston
Type of fluid: DOT 4 Class 6

#brakefluid #howto
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vacuum the tank out first, fill to the top with new fluid so you aren't drawing that old fluid into the system and only draw enough out to keep the reservoir from letting air in.

samg
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For anyone watching this video - Please don't tighten your bleeder with a socket and ratchet... Hand tight with a wrench is plenty tight.

sjgoff
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Start at the wheel station furthermost from the brake fluid reservoir and finish at the closest.
Try to find Super Dot 4 or Dot 4 Super, It has the highest dry boiling temp.

Slaktrax
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For God’s Sake ! Anytime that you are messing around with brake fluid be sure to wear your safety glasses! Many years ago I had one drop splash into my eye; it felt like a charcoal briquette was on my eye ! I had the unbelievable luck that there was a running hose in a tree well right next to where I was working in the driveway. I flushed that eye with for at least 15 minutes. That was over 45 years ago and the thought of it still makes me pucker.

jimseviltwin
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Once you tighten the bleeder screws smear some axle grease over them to keep them from corroding, makes it easier to loosen in the future.

vinceblanchard
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Mostly covers what to do but remember a few things,
Firstly wear some PPE, not fun to get brake fluid in your eyes. Also don't rely on jack alone, use jack stands.
2. Start with the furthermost tyre from reservoir and work your way back.
3. Push back pistons on calipers to ensure all fluid is pushed back. Make sure reservoir doesnt overflow.
4. Suck out old fluid out of reservoir and fill with new fluid. Pull fluid through until new fluid hits the tube.

kpreet
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Never, repeat Never, repeat NEVER work on a car supported only by a jack! Jack stands are inexpensive and can save your life or limbs. Jacks are only for emergency tire changes and for use as the lifting tool to get your jack stands in place. NEVER perform any type of work like this with the car only supported by a jack!

kruzer
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Don't overtighten the bleeder valves. Typically they should be tightened to 5 or 6 foot pounds. Snug and then a tiny bit more.

glennhansel
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Using an adjustable wrench on the bleeder valves???
Jesus….

Zerpersande
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I bought a 40-yr-old Ford pickup once. Did a brake job on it. Did not drive it much, and one year later a wheel cylinder that was one year old froze up. I know now it was due to moisture in the brake fluid. I should have replaced the fluid when I did the brake job. No telling how old it was. I know better now. Thanks for showing me how.

stevenpollard
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Way easier to just suck old fluid out of master cylinder reservoir, fill with new fluid and bleed brakes until clear...

hobo
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Long time ago, this was how I did such jobs, before I developed my knowledge, invested in decent tools and became a mechanic. That was years ago; now I just do my own work thankful that I save money. The lad got the job done, but needs to read up more! Can’t see an axle stand for starters? Otherwise, on my own car, I would have first cleaned and pre-lubed around the bleed nipples several days before doing the job. As others stated, I would suck out old fluid first especially if using pressure bleeding. I would also not have used a large adjustable spanner, or ratchet and socket to try and undo the bleed nipples; instead a short, 6-sided 10mm ring spanner gives good feel and is preferred. All that said, fair play, the lad is starting out; but lowered suspension, painted calipers and wheel spacers tells me he has a long road ahead within which to learn. A while back invested in a stand alone Sealey brake bleeding kit and drain bottle - great for home use where you can’t get close to an air line. Pressurising the lines is often the only way to get a good result - especially on clutch hydraulics.

Bombardier
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Brilliant way of changing brake fluid. Thank you for filming this work and posting it.

dog-bite
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Always use a 6-point socket rather than a 12-point wrench on your bleeders, especially if they are rusted. You dont want to round these off. I also grease the threads before installing new ones, so there's no chance for water to get in there.

themleisback
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I have used this method before but eventually purchased a "Power Bleeder" which pressurizes the reservoir and pushes the fresh fluid through the system. This way you avoid the issue with sucking air in via the treads of the open bleeder valve and overall it is less work. But it is an investment of around $100. There might be knock-offs for less but the original power bleeder is a very well made tool.

christianluggert
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You are Genius. At last I have cheap, easy and rwliable solution to try it myself. Thank You for idea

romanpasternak
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I use a MityVac vacuum setup.. Which can draw a full 1 bar ( -15 PSI ) vacuum... I also temporarily clamp brake hose and take out the nipple and wind some PTFE tape on the thread, this stops air being sucked around the nipple thread and also stops the thread from seizing in the caliper... I also just snug up the nipple with a short ring spanner, especially in aluminium calipers which can strip easily, especially with PTFE tape on thread reducing the friction.... The beauty of the small MityVac catch bottle is that if you fill the master cylinder reservoir to very top of the fill opening before starting a new wheel, the MityVac bottle will fill up before the master cylinder reservoir gets too low and this prevents sucking air into system ( which is a world of pain with ABS ) to make sure if put some tape around mityvac bottle and stop sucking about 20mm before top of bottle and soon as fluid reaches the tape. As someone else said - vacuum out the master cylinder reservoir and fill with fresh fluid right to the very top before starting to bleed the system and you will be sucking fresh fluid into the system, not the old stale fluid in the reservoir. Another caution is that brake fluid will take the paint off your car, wash off any spills ASAP with a water and dish soap mixture.

chrissmith
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I just used the pump/bottle method myself. A bit more work, but you'll also find out if you have any leaks (I did)

rushnerd
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Remove old fluid from the brake reservoir and fill with new fluid first. Then while doing brake bleeding, gravity bleeding technique is the best since it is fast enough and there is no risk of bubbles or air entry and you have time to fill the brake reservoir during gravity bleeding.

Raj-nhfc
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The two person method is still the best way of getting all the old fluid and air out of the brake line system.

atillaozturk