easiest crease repair I've ever done

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Kind of the dream snap this one. Aside from the frustrating clear coat sprayed over the whole board being almost impossible to sand, no prep work in the sense of removing fractured glass, replacing foam or any of that jazz.

Not your standard crease repair but hopefully useful none the less. --------------------------------------------

You'll get first look at new videos before they go public and we can go over your own repairs through that page as well.

There are always members only videos being posted up on youtube too which only you members will have access to.
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Funny to me that they actually think that one ply of unidirectional carbon fiber strands adds measurable strength (without a real stringer) but hey it "looks high tech cool" right? Or maybe it's cool to tell friends you snapped another board on a regular basis. To each their own! Anyway, another nice repair!

Jim-fexz
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I am happy to hear I am not the only one with a hatred towards this hi-pro eps/epoxy carbon things. Honestly I can not stand fixing them and for some reason everyone keeps buying them. Any way cheers from Florida! Love the videos!

willferris
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1. Congrats, both for the repair and for the video. I use mostly epoxy and there is no way I can get that finish. Hats off to you, Master!
2. To all of you watchers who are not subscribed yet: do it. How can you not? This is very likely the best channel of the kind!

Andy_XT
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Totally agree with your rant about eps boards, so no worries there.

deribrown
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This looks like a solid repair. I stopped riding eps boards with no stringer because i buckled or snapped 3-4 of them. It seems like an eps baord with a stringer is MUCH stronger, except hayden shapes seems to have some good tech. My hypto krypto lasted 10 years and that thing has been beat to hell in heavy tubes.

when I repair buckles I would make sure the fiber glass wrap completely around the rail and some into the bottom. I always heard that the rail is where the buckle starts so I try to make the rails super strong. I also seen people do the diamond method of cutting the fiberglass where the longer part is the stringer and I have seen the butterfly method. The butterfly method is shorter at the stringer and longer in the rails. If the rails are the strongest part of the board, then maybe the butterfly is better?

BrianGorberg
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Single stage top coat….. used all of the time in China, UK

dudeleboski
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It might be worth trying a fibre glass safe paint stripper to get the paint layer off before sanding. I'd try a small area first to be safe. That's where I'd be starting. Would hand sanding be an option? I know it's slow, but it would avoid heating up the paint and might be the only way out too. Charge for the extra time and effort.

Monstamonkey
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I personally charge extra for those MIAs (Made In Asia). FireWire being Lacquered is some strange top coat….

dudeleboski
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just damaged my JS HYFI board and I can verify as well, they're shit! Fell on my back on the bottom of the board, broke both left and right boxes...

dmac
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Great video as always! Do you rate any eps epoxy boards? Ones with wood stringers? Or strictly PU person? Thank you!! 🤙

happydayz
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Great vid as usual, im just wondering how you get such a nice finish, i often find the fibre glass pattern showing through after all is said and done, how do you avoid this? Generally happens when i hard sand and doesnt go away with my hot coat

bean
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Is your MIRKA RO multi speed? Like an air powered one?

dudeleboski
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Maybe I’m a weirdo, but I actually prefer fixing epoxy boards haha

damiencollins