Wood bowl food safe finish

Long overdue video.

Some of the finishes that I use , over the years I experiment with a lit of oils and these work great for my work....

Affiliate links to tools I use

KS BOWL GOUGE

CROWN BOWL GOUGE

KS SPINDLE GOUGE

This links are affiliate links. If you click on such affiliate link and make a purchase via this link, I will receive a commission from the online shop or provider concerned. The price remains unchanged for you.

#woodturning #woodworking #finish #oils @olilackeolinatura #bowlmaker #experiment #coffee

Social media accounts:

[terrytenley]

Tomislav thank you for sharing you knowledge on wood bowl finishes..

[emgiwoodworks]

Finishes are one of the largest money pits for turners. It is incredible how much you can spend on them.
Watching you & Richard I have decided to stop buying any more.
I have enough and you can already do a great job with linseed oil and beeswax.
Thnx for sharing! 😎

[geomark]

Excellent and practical demonstration. Thank you.

[richbulak]

Tomislav, thank you for sharing your experiences with various finishes. I like the simplicity of Tried and True linseed oil finishes on bowls/platters. Looking fwd to future videos.

[alainnoel]

I discovered you with the four projects series: a wonderful discovery ! Although you claim not being scientific, your explanations are quite informative and systematic. After your presentation on scrapers (that helped me improve my turnings), this video is quite helpful in guiding us on finishing.

[terryyancy]

Nice video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge

[Pipejawood-Woodturning]

Thank you for sharing this video. I also used Danish oil and is also easy to use and protect wood realy well

Thanks for the useful and good information.

[aaronneiderman]

Very informative. I have learned some new things that I was not thinking about when making bowls or functional art pieces. Thank you for sharing.

[dougrobins]

Like you, I've tried many types of oils. I have settled on walnut oil with carnuba wax for my wood bowls.

[pauljaycarstens]

Thank you for sharing your experience. I am a new turner and so far have used Tried and True original with the beeswax mixed in a it’s worked great for me so far. 😊

[marklawrence]

Some great information, thanks for sharing 👍🏼😊

[timofeyzhukov-khovanskiy]

I've been using either linseed oil or tung oil (both heat polymerized pure versions) and beeswax blends for food items, depending on weather I want the wood to darken much or not. And danish oil for decorative items (it is generally food safe too but only after it's done curing, which is like a month)

[STMwoodturning]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts on finishes. I like food safe finishes and have tried Mahoney’s walnut oil, Howard’s cutting board conditioner, Feed-n-wax and now danish oil. I like ease of application and low cost. Never tried linseed oil but now I might.
Stuart

[balahmay]

In my wood turning journey, I have benefited greatly from watching professional turners on YouTube. The ones I watch all tend to use a combination of oil and some kind of wax. The finished products always look great. So I emulated that and sure, I had nice looking finishes too. But it wasn’t very long before I learned that just one drop of water is all it takes to cause a major blemish on that nice finish. So I am still looking for a better solution for this. I have heard Mike Mahoney talk about Waterlox being a product that was a combination of varnish, tung oil, and mineral spirits. So I thought I have all those, I’ll mix them up and try that. The result was that it was sort of OK, but it took forever to dry. So then I decided to actually try the real Waterlox product. It is a thin viscosity, so the first coat pretty much just all soaks right in. A day later, put a second coat on, and that might start to show some gloss. For more gloss, put a third coat on the third day. But I find if I friction polish that third coat, I get a satin finish that is really smooth. I have messed up some pieces trying this out and had to sand them back. Sanding is just fine with no gumming up of the sandpaper, something you can’t do on a waxed piece. I think that first coat works almost like sanding sealer (except for the drying time). It seems durable, and they say it is food safe. But it has a chemical smell that tends to linger. They also have some water-based products that I haven’t tried. Maybe do that next. Or maybe reach out to them for advice. The friction polishing that I mentioned is probably only practical if you have a vacuum chuck.

[theangrywoodturner]

Great information..I usually use beeswax and mineral oil friction polish then beall buffing system. Hopefully the customers can take easy care with it. Was thinking about tried and true maybe? Thank you for your content.

[victorprimack]

Do you recommend to your customers to buy BLO and wipe down their bowls with it when needed?

[kevinseigworth]

Tomislav, your videos are terrific. They are interesting, informative and educational. Your tool control is especially precise and inspirational. My question is what do your bowls primarily get sold and used for? Are they functional bowls that are used with food and not decorative bowls for display? Or would you say they are both? Thanks.

[claudepotter]

The can with the red lable can you reply the name I couldn't find but not sure how to speel it I do like the more glossy look

[jackthompson]

Thanks for the great video on finishes Tomislav. Have you ever tried walnut oil? I have had great luck with it and it produces a Matt finish. And also, it can be renewed easily.