Build A Solar Ammo Can Full-Length Instructional Video

This is the step-by-step instructional video on how to build a portable solar power supply in an ammo can. CLICK SHOW MORE for parts list and other details!

This project is essentially a battery inside a sturdy box with a handle. I choose an 50 caliber plastic ammo can, as I've found them to be very handy as tool boxes and storage containers. Ammo cans stack nicely, carry easily, and have a weathertight gasket seal.

In the past, many of my projects made use of "Unique Parts" (such as bulletproof glass pulled out of a dumpster!) In this case, I wanted to made use of as many "off-the-shelf" parts as possible. For one thing, it makes it very easy for OTHER people to also make their version of the same project.

In this case, I happened to purchase most of the components from a major online retailer. If you'd like to do the same, I've provided links to the items I used.

For this project, we will need:

Ammo Can, 50 cal.
I really like the MTM brand. Nice boxes, made in the U.S.A. Available in multiple colors. Black and green are both classic, but you might want high visibility orange if you intend to use this as emergency equipment.

Sealed Lead Acid Battery, 15AH capacity.
I specifically chose a particular physical size, as it fits perfectly inside the MTM Ammo can. It's also a relatively small battery, which keeps the project weight to right around only ten pounds. I used a "Mighty Max" brand battery.

UPDATE! LITHIUM BATTERY!

20A Solar Charge Controller

Four In One Socket Panel
This is a device typically sold for trucks to add a 12V cigarette lighter outlet, USB ports, a voltmeter, and a switch to turn it all on and off. They are available in several shapes sizes and colors.

Banana Jacks
These are used as universal electrical inputs and outputs on the project. This project uses two pairs, but since I knew I'm be using more in the future, I bought a box of 10.

12 AWG stranded wire in both black and red
(From local hardware store)

Crimp on electrical terminals, spade and 1/4" ring terminal

Silicone adhesive or hot glue

Industrial type hook and loop fastener (Velcro)

Wire Nuts or Wago (Brand) Lever Lock Nuts.

Fuse Holder and Fuse.

6-32 and 8-32 nuts, bolts, and washers

The project also features "accessory items" that simply plug in to the Solar Ammo Can to make it as useful as possible. To start with, we will want to be able to charge the battery.

Solar Panel - a 15 watt PV Solar panel. Any 12V nominal solar panel of about 10 to 20 watts is perfect for this project.
Here's one which looks affordable, and it about the right size and style for the project.

DC Power Adapter (Wall Charger)
Any DC wall power adapter of higher than 12V (13.2, 14.4, 18) and one amp will work fine.
I already had a 18V 1.3A power adapter handy.
Here's a similar adapter.

The other items I packed into the ammo can were for lighting and AC power.

USB Gooseneck Light
These small USB lights work great. They are very simple and durable. Fantastic for camping.

100 Watt AC Power Inverter.
This device converts DC power to AC power so that you can run typical household devices from a battery. A 100 watt version is very compact and inexpensive. I already had one, which I used for this project. Here is a similar version.

If you are not going to be using the Solar Ammo Can for a while, fully charge it up, then simply pull the positive connection at the battery, or pull the main fuse. This will prevent any energy drain while in storage.

Background music for this video was provided by:
Music by:
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License

[lawrencedavidson]

Very nice detailed solar ammo box build, I have made a few myself but not as neat as yours. Thanks for NOT calling it a solar generator. Greetings from Jamaica.

[newageautotechnology]

You should switch the red fused wire between the battery and the solar charge controller. Save from a parasitic draw on the battery. Nice build clean looking.

[bradlyons]

Highest quality DIY YouTube video I have ever seen of what is probably one of the most important things everybody should have in case there is a public utility power-outage and / or, to have portable solar rechargeable AC / DC electrical power on the go while traveling, camping, etc. Thank you Benjamin Nelson for your YouTube video channel.

[bonniesylvain]

Amazing talent to vulgarize intimidating stuff. Amazingly clear. Driven by passion and respect for his audience. I wish you were my neighbor ! Fantastic !

[ronniephillips]

Hi Ben I just finished a shed and put a newer, bigger solar system (60 amp hr) in it to power lights, a fan, cordless battery charger and more. You inspired me, thank you...God Bless

[nes]

You know you've been making signs too long when the vinyl gets me excited. Nothing quite wakes you up like the smell vinyl in the morning.

Thanks for spelling out some of the odd parts others skip.

[williamsalmons]

Nice presentation! Well thought out. Gathering my bits pcs to make one, I will however add a disconnect switch between the battery and charge controller as not to discharge the battery during storage.

[ronniephillips]

Hello Ben I finsihed mine yesterday, I will send you pics later. Very Excited, I used it last night, I had an LED light that plugs into a computer and I pluged it into the box, it worked great. I am using a 30 watt solar panel 1.76 amp max output... Thank you for sharing your project, it inspired me to do this, somthing I have never done before using tools I have never used before..LOL

[skootles]

After watching dozens of solar battery box videos, yours is the most comprehensive and easy to understand. It is the inspiration for my own build.

[BlessedLaymanNC]

I've seen this video three or four times over a number of months. This past week, I accumulated all the major components for mine, but when I started to get the little things I need to put it together, I discovered they were nickle and diming me to poverty! I originally desired to fuse and switch everything. You reminded me to KISS it!

I originally started to fuse and switch just about everything. Yours uses only one switch and one fuse. I decided to change mine to use only the one fuse, but two switches.

First of all, I follow the growing trend not to use the "load" option on the solar charge controller (SCC). I use mine for ham radio transmitters and on three different SCCs the "load" can't handle even the smallest radio, way below the rated current. Instead, my output devices will connect directly to the battery (always to the master fuse.)

One switch will go to the SCC so I can turn it off when not charging the battery. The other switch will go to the "accessories", just as your accessory panel has. Like yours, the input and output ports bypass the switches and go directly to the fuse.

I'm designing two of them and am actively assembling my prototype.

My prototype will be using a 16Ah LiFePO4 battery, and have three separate 12v-USB charging ports and two APP ports. The 12v-USB ports with multiple outlets never charge two devices as fast as one. So, I'm installing three so everyone in the family can fast charge one of their devices at the same time. This is the primary purpose of the prototype, but it will also double as a power supply for picnic-type ham radio portable outings where I operate a few hours and come home. It's not worth setting up solar for one or two hours and the battery powers the radio for 5 hours.

With the kinks ironed out of the prototype, I'll build four more with 32Ah LiFePO4 batteries with the same power panel as yours, but with APP where you have banana jacks. One of them will have a pure sine wave inverter for my CPAP and the others will be equipped with inverters like you have. Each family member gets one during a power outage and I get one for the CPAP and one for the radio station. The prototype will still be there for charging phones and tablets as needed.

[gbounit]

This has got to be the most interesting and non-intimidating electrical lesson I have see. Very easy to follow along, THANKS! I am encouraged to actually try this sometime!

[anthonymccarthy]

Finally, a project that is small enough to be in the range of what I want. Most of the youtubes and online instructions figure you want to run a whole house on them.

[sorinpopescu]

This is the best, most complete, well explained tutorial ever. Good job, sir!

[adamasalawan]

Thank you so much for your detailed instruction. I just finished putting mine together - AND IT WORKS!!!

[jimmywalker]

I know it's a few years old but I've built my 3rd box since I saw this a couple of years ago. I did modify it a bit. Used 2 batteries, a solar controller and a 400 watt inverter with discharge control. Both batteries fit perfectly. The controller is mounted but the inverter is loose. It would run our lights, TV and 18v battery charger. Good stuff. Thanks for this video

[QUADBOYification]

A really good tutorial for starters, like the way you did the wiring. Most have a big mess which you should avoid. Seems a rather good battery for its size, as I watch I noticed you could add another one easily. 30Ah total is probably overkill but with an inverter, you could run that fridge an hour longer if needed. Having a few accessories on the lid itself is basically a choice. I do find that impressive and will stimulate you to use it more. Thanks, I changed a few plans myself because of this.

[zenzibell]

Wow, thank you for this! I've seen countless videos of this same project, but none of them were as comprehensive as yours. I already have all the items I need, except for the faceplate, which of course I'm gonna order.

[jhill]

Thank you for actually talking to us. Not a mime, music montage or robo-voice.

[raymondpaenga]

This guy is amazing wow you blow my mind we appreciate your time bro for putting this together simple and easy

[mschaus]

Nicely done. Note that the wall wart charger does not have a constant-current mode so is not really appropriate for battery charging. In the video, it is trying to charge, seeing effectively a short circuit, shutting down, and then starting again. One solution is to add a buck converter with an adjustable constant current setting between any power supply and the battery. Old laptop power supplies are great for that if you want high power (with an appropriate buck converter).