Saw blade manufacturers won't want you to see this tool #sawblades #tools

Chicago Electric Power Tools Professional Series- Item#96687

This portable circular saw blade sharpener makes it possible to sharpen several blades at a time. Constructed with a die cast aluminum base and indexing arm, this saw blade sharpener is durable but lightweight. Features include a motor block that tilts 25 degrees left and right to adjust for different blade tooth configurations.

Specialized blade receiver accepts blades with arbors up to 1 in.

Motor block tilts 25° left and right to handle different blade tooth configurations

Blade indexing arm for fast and easy performance

Sturdy die cast aluminum base and indexing arm

Portable compact design

Specifications

Name120 Volt Circular Saw Blade SharpenerSKU96687BrandChicago ElectricAmperage (amps)9CertificationUL listedDiameter3-1/2 in. - 15-3/4 in.Speed (max)3800Wattage (watts)140Product Height11Product Length9-1/2Product Width13-3/4Shipping Weight12.45 lbs.Accessories Included4 in. diamond wheel for carbide tips, 4 in. emery wheel for steel tips, harbor freight Chicago electric tools

[fredberger]

Retired journeyman carpenter here. Years ago, on a job site, the sharpening service was unable to come due to truck problems. We had a tech who decided to sharpen the blade himself, sharpening each tooth carefully. The blade didn't cut afterwards. So one of the carpenter's tried it, same result. I asked them to give me 15 minutes with the blade. It cut perfectly when I was done. The focus is NOT on each tooth, it is on the PERFECT centricity of the blade. Your individual teeth can be as sharp as can be, but if your blade is not circular, you'll be cutting with only one tooth; the highest one.

[rennethjarrett]

This was mentioned yesterday. "The lock dog should be adjusted to enter the tooth root at more of an angle...not straight in. Move the post away from the sharpener", and at a tight angle to the blade tooth. When it clicks in the blade, it should not be able to move back wards at all. Used this clicker as a jam tool to aim, and lock your blade for every tooth. Yes, it was also too close to the sharpener and that was moving it over every time you moved the sharpener forward. I also agree every other cutting tooth should be at a opposite angle, to remove your cut out of the way.

[bigviper]

Use a Red Felt Tip marker to mark your first tooth...it helps you to know where you started and how m any more teeth you need to sharpen..

[l.clevelandmajor]

Working in a professional cabinet shop, I was tasked with getting our blades sharpened on a regular basis. We had a man that was a professional blade sharpener/repairer. He not only did our saw blades, but he also did our drill bits and router bits, and any other cutting tool we had. This saved the company tens of thousands of dollars a year. As new blades and bits were quite expensive, having our old ones sharpened was the smart thing to do. As I had a home shop also, our company allowed me to include my own blades with theirs to be sharpened. This is because I provided a service to my bosses and the CEO with my own skills building things they needed. There was a mutual respect between us that you rarely see in business.

[jeffhoover]

Yes definite learning curve. I've had the same one for 3 or 4 years. All the adjusters on this unit are really too imprecise. Here's the trick. Set the bade with the black handle pulled all the way in towards you -- don't touch it again. Wear leather gloves! Now what you do is free hand all the carbide sharpening. I set the blade around 10 degrees bevel and sharpen every other tooth, once complete I reset the bevel for the blade around 10 degrees opposite pitch. I practiced on a few and within an hour I was whizzing through em. Has saved me probably a $1000 or more in new purchases and sending them out for re-sharpening.

[petedetects]

I own a professional sharpening center and witnessed many accidents when people run dull blades. If your location doesn't offer a sharpening service this machine will help . Thanks for sharing 👍

[ronmcwhirter]

I like mine . Works real good. Take your time, figure it out, sharpens blades very well. I've even bought blades at junk stores garage sales and such. And brought them back to life.

[QuadDoc]

I was just coming down here to the comments to help him. I can see that others have done the same… but I want to add to it, and hopefully it will help clarify things for those who are newer to the industry, or just newer to this specific style of blade, sharpening machine.

You have to adjust this machine so that the stopper flips flat against the next carbide tooth! This type of sawblade has half of the carbide teeth that “normal” 40-60 tooth plywood blades would have so that it hits the gullet, where other blades would have another carbide tooth for the a ATDPAD to stop against. Also, you need to tighten the ATDPAD so that it doesn’t flex at all!
It’s called a “Adjacent Tooth Dependent Precise Advancing Detent” for good reason. 😉👍🏼

[craigmonteforte]

Hey, I am a retired Woodworker with over 25 years professional years behind me and over35 years of Woodworking as a hobby it sounds like you are grinding way more than you need to on Carbide tipped saw blades I like the machine set up you are using but maybe your wheel is too coarse or the blade needs to be readjusted usually I just basically dress the cutting face up as compared to grinding a brand new surface I actually have some Blades that are as old as the 1950s and were my Fathers those are just HSS not the preferred Carbide tipped I’ve even used 800grit wet/dry sandpaper glued to a flat surface to make just a few passes onthe Carbide and that will give me many more good cuts on the blade

[dergrunepunkt]

Just by cleaning the gunk off the blade improves the cut a LOT, I was actually amazed how much improves, I do it just with a simple file, not sure if you can recover a blade but you definitely improve the cut by doing some maintenance to it.

[jeffersonfjeld]

Lol, my Dad used to make "let" me sharpen his saw blades with a file... took forever but I learned a valuable skill!

[williamportie]

I've never sharpened circular saw blades, but with this said I've sharpened professionally for years. Suggestion: find the right angle of every other blade tip and sharpen on slightly different angles for each other tip (as the blades come from the factory). This will increase the overall sharpness of the finished product.
A little bit like sharpening chain saw blades. Great video I learned what really needed. Thanks.

[richardgroom]

After sharpening blades for a living for 40 years I can assure you that this machine needs lots of work to make it usable

[fredhinck]

About as precise as sewing an ant's ass shut with boxing gloves on

[BOWNARO]

Your pawl to index with needs to index on the actual tooth of the blade, your indexing in a radius relief and sliding around. As a machinist who has sharpened many types of cutters on professional factory type equipment you always located from the cutting edge of an existing tooth for accuracy.

[mannihh]

Saves a lot of money if you can sharpen your tungsten blades. If you don't grind away too much, you should be able to re-sharpen every blade 4-5 times before it's worn out.
Purchasing this tool (or a diamond sharpening blade for your angle grinder) is a no-brainer.
Some suggestions though:
@6:33 you can see the stop-post tilt to the side, it's not sturdy enough to handle the force - weld or epoxy a triangular piece of sheet-metal to it that rides on the base plate and prevents tilting. But you can also remove it and sharpen the blades freehand - take the diamond wheel into the gap and repeatedly move the tooth against it for a very short time (~0.2 sec) until all the Sharpie marking on the cutting surface is gone, counting, how many passes you need. Then repeat the same count on each tooth. That should be consistant enough to give you good results.
One more tipp:
if you spend time on resharpening the blade, remove the gunk first, and after resharpening the blade, put on a coat of SilverGlide or Silicone spray to further reduce friction.

[Metalbass]

It's a great concept. I've designed and built my own sharpening tools for my shop, and am constantly asked to build more for friends, relatives, and coworkers. I've designed and built more tooling, workholding, locating, locking, fixturing, stuff that needs to be precise, accurate, repeatable - and due to 20% of my crew everywhere I've worked - and idiot resistant (because just as there is nothing completely bullet "proof" there is nothing completely idiot "proof" ... some idiots are just amazing). Blade sharpening, on blades meant to be resharpened, is so helpful, saves money, reduces scrap, and improves safety of blades in use.

There are definitely improvements to be made to that thing. I would want to improve its rigidity, its locating and positive stop functions, and replace that crappy wheel. I would use a different abrasive, likely a superabrasive, but not diamond. Diamond structurally is a crystalline lattice of carbon, carbide structurally is a crystalline lattice composed of significant percentages of carbon. Consider the phrase, "like dissolves like, " and you'll see why. Diamond abrasives service life is significantly reduced by using it on carbide.

I know I'll get responses of, " I use my diamond on my blah blah blah blah." Don't bother. I didn't post this as a conversation. It's a comment. Agree or disagree, I don't care, that's your choice. I helped design tooling, based on physics, chemistry, thermodynamics determined by actually DOING things again and again and again and measuring the outcome, then DOING things and again measuring the results. So this isn't guesswork or opinion I base my COMMENT on. If you want to use this and see how things work for you, great. If you want to argue because you use this in your shop and ... Great. Happy for you. Have a wonderful life.

Time for me to go, I've got a 106" resaw blade that needs resharpening and fifteen minutes before bedtime, and I still need to shower. Take care, build something useful, and stay safe!

[blakeahoover]

I was a machinist with TRW Wendt-Sonis 16 years. When starting a sharpening set up, one would use a black marker to color area to be ground. Coming in slowly to the darkened area with the grinding wheel, you could tell when the ground area was at "clean up", as the color was erased and the carbide was shined, ready to be ground to tolerance

[PlasmaStar]

Actually would think the clicker stop should be stopping against the next TOOTH instead of the rounded spacer gap. Would give a more positive stopping point. That would also move the stop support out away from the blade guard so it wouldn't bump when the blade comes in. Actually this is a good video, which along with the various comments would allow one to get it set up and used correctly. I'm betting it's not a bad piece of equipment once set up and I didn't even know they had this. So thanks. Floor laminate is a killer on saw blades.

[slickrick]

I used to work sharpening all kinds of blades. Every other tooth is tilted outwards towards the opposite direction to allow for a kerf and needs to be sharpened on an angle, like a compound miter. The drill sharpener and the saw blade sharpener that harbor freight sell are JUNK, don't waste your money. If you don't "set" your teething and you will burn your wood as there will be no kerf and your drills will have no "relief" from the cutting edge and will cause excessive heat due to too much surface area making contact. Also, teeth may be brazed on when chipped/missing/broken, if you are good with a torch