Possible Reasons for Spongy Brake Pedals - It's Not Air in The Lines

Today we're talking about spongy brakes, and how to diagnose spongy brake pedals. Can you drive on spongy brake pedals? Also how to fix spongy brake pedals. As well as How soft brake pedals happen, and most importantly how to diagnose spongy brakes in your driveway. We're also going to talk about a few common misconceptions when it comes to why your brakes are soft. Like if your master cylinder isn't full, that is not the cause for your soft brake pedals. We'll also talk about how your drum brakes are giving you an issue with spongy brake pedals.

The hilarious clips are from "Dude Where's my Car" (2000)

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[js]

Here's one for ya, I worked 15 years in auto parts sales.. 10 of which as an ASE Certified parts pro and no one ever told me that a bubble flare can only be used once! I have a leak on the ABS unit on my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it can not be fixed by tightening the line screw. As a matter of fact, when I tried just that it made the leak much worse and now I have to splice the line at the ABS unit then bleed it out.

[SamanthaMiller-oy]

I've spent 3 months and hundreds of dollar trying to figure out why I had no brakes. As soon as you said you pulled the ABS fuse. I pulled it and drove my truck without issue for the first time and many hours of labor you were the solution. Thank you so much and I hope you continue to inspire people to do jobs on their own.

[jesusmejia]

Is this a comedy channel or an automotive channel? The edits from that film are too much man just get to the freaking point. I’m tryna learn here.

[wyattolsen]

HUGE HELP thank you for this video. My 1998 Toyota rav4 was having issues with spongy brakes. Especially when SLOWLY pressing on the brake pedal it would reach the floor pretty consistently.

I started by flushing the entire system from the 24 year old brake fluid. when that didn't completely fix my issue I took the brake drum off and made sure everything was clean and looked connected properly.

funny enough I didn't realize they auto adjust when depressing the brake pedal and did this while the drum was off. Causing the rear brakes to get set to the max position, eventually leaking from the master cylinders in the drums and leaking out fluid. After learning that, I spun the star WAY further back than necessary causing my car to have basically no rear braking. After watching your video and a few others I got those adjusted and the brakes are much much better in the rar. Still having issues with the pedal reaching the floor and after some suggestions online and your video I'm pretty confident the master cylinder is leaking internally. Picked up a brand new one and I'm gonna throw it on tomorrow.

Thanks again! Going to watch one of your playlists tonight ;)

[ControlsEngineerOne]

Great video. I’m having the peddle go all the way to the floor with vehicle the vehicle running. Just had the rear drums& solenoids replaced about 6 months ago. Just stated taking place the last 2 months. I’m going to replace the check valve & hydraulic hoses 1st. No leaks that I can find so far, no loss of fluid. Sometimes the peddle is okay, other times I have to pump 2-3-4x and then I get peddle and other times I’m not certain if I’m going to stop, but this is usually coming off the highway. Cold or warm weather doesn’t matter. Thank you Sir! New subscriber.

[blissgreenscreens]

Sir, If I was next to you right now I would give you the biggest hug you have ever had. Many people have tried to fix my 2005 silverado 1500 with no luck. Issue with the pedal going to the floor when running. Although not to the floor when off, still not normal. I watched your video, and sure enough, there was the answer. All the years doing brakes, My son and I somehow put the calipers on the wrong side and the bleeder is in fact, on the bottom. All I can say is I LOVE Crossing fingers that does the trick. Thank you and yes I subscribed!

[nickdibiase]

Same exact thing happen to me, I. Replaced my master cylinder and I took the fuse out of my A. B s and now by brakes, work perfectly fine

[Creepytalltales]

Great video!! 😂 I was so upset about having this problem but this video calmed me down and gave me useful information!!!

[Julianconanhernandez]

Amazing & very informative video thanks so much. I think im having trouble with my brake booster after watching this. Makes a super loud hissing noise when i press the brake, goes all the way to the ground, the noise stopa, takes super long for the truck to stop. Truck is running extremely rich & has no power.

[PadmaDorjee]

You are really funny but I subscribed because of your humility to be honest about being wrong. That integrity is rare on youtube.

[martinpetersen]

This covers really well a lot of the issues I have worked through over the last 3 months regarding my brakes.
basically im at the Master cylinder due to possible having ruined it when bleeding out air from it, which can be done without removing it.. the air i put there due to having drained the brake fluid when removing my broken calipers.. where the vents were shut.
but this gives a really good picture how brakes possibly don't work
Gonna go replace my master though.. since that is most likely why my brake pedal is slightly spongy.
thanks for this vid.

and then!!

[notearslife]

My original master cylinder was working perfectly fine but the fluid was very dark even after the brake flush. I noticed my rear wheel cylinder was leaking so i wanted to baby my truck and install a brand new ACDelco master cylinder and new wheel cylinders. Oh boy I had a horrible time bleeding the rear drum brakes. Brake pedal was going all the way to the floor. I searched YouTube videos to help me with my issue. So it seemed like ABS control module might have air. So i kept and kept bleeding it without luck. I went to my junk yard location to find a used ABS module. I spent almost half a day looking for one until i found one. Went home tried on and same results. I also purchased another proportioning valve because it might be the problem. Installed and same results. My brake light was on, and almost no pressure to the rear lines. So I came across to a video explaining how to rest the proportioning valve to keep it open so fluid could travel to the rear line and same results. I bought a lot of bottles of brake fluid I spent about 70 dollars on fluid. I could recycle it and reuse it but it was turning dark and green so i didn't want to reuse it. So there were another videos that explained about some wheel cylinders could be bad and have defective seals and it could suction air back to the system. So I purchased another set of wheel cylinders installed them and same results. I was loosing my brain cells. I purchased a 80 dollars brake bleeder and didn't help at all. Same problem pedal all the way to the floor. I gave up and i took it to Firestone to the pros, so they can diagnose the main problem and the truck was there all day and they didn't find the issue. I was told it was because i removed the ABS MODULE and computer. That i needed a new ABS computer and a rebuild the ABS module otherwise i would keep have this issue. They quoted me a leg and arms so no way i could afford it. It was like buying the truck again. I went home all sad and disappointed. They didn't even bother to check the master cylinder because it was brand new and original supposedly. I knew my old was working so I was like you know what ima install it back but honestly i didn't want to because it was old and looked beaten by the years. At this point I didn't care. So I removed the master cylinder and BOOMS!!! My pressure was there instantly!! My pedal was firm and hard. No more brake light on!! After a week of pure stress, finally, i could breathe. This part gave me a headache I don't wish this to anybody. I hope you never get to go through this.

[cw]

I’ve replaced MC, booster, brake pads, calipers, rotors, drums, drum brakes (kit), shoes, bled, no air, clean fluid, no leaks…
E brake works fine. Drum brake could use a little more adjusting…
Pulled one ABS fuse. Light came on but didn’t help with soft pedal (until I feel brakes 75% depression).
There is a second ABS fuse for rear wheels and cruise control.
I haven’t tried that, yet.
Tomorrow.
Perhaps a new control module if no change with brake drum adjustment and removal of back ABS fuse.
I still have the rubber brake lines.
Maybe I’ll swap those out for steel braided, too.
2000 Subaru Forester, 2.5 L, L Series, MT5. 117k miles. Given to me by a client 4 years ago if I could do the work on it. Head gasket leak; not bad. Not overheating, no oil in coolant/vise versa. I only drive it a few month out of the year. I have 4 other vehicles also between my daughter and I that I keep running.
Thank you for your informative video. My daughter would get a kick out of the humor… and theeeennn! 😂

[danlewandoski]

As promised, you covered it all, turns out it was upside down front calipers. Thanks a million, a grateful Polock!

[wyattandwill]

Part of me wants to rewatch this video because of the movie scenes even more than trying to learn all the brake possibilities better lol (if that makes sense). You inspired me to watch that movie a month or two ago and I didn’t know what I was missing.

[caseyfuller]

Dude. You are the man. So thorough. Thank you! I am now a subscriber.

[jeffastill]

THANKS MATE I PULL THE FUSE ON IT AND YOU WHERE RIGHT THANKS AGAIN.

[sivucit]

Subscribed. Period. Fantastic and No one have this info.. If brake line, brake pad, no leaks on brake caliper, cylinder etc, can i assume my master cylinder is leaking internally, and after changing master cylinder, can i condemn ABS. seemms like testing master cylinder is not practically possible except ruling all others out. can i check ABS by unplugging the fuse? again for spongy

[skrypture]

Master cylinder can be bad without leaking.. it can fail internally and never leak, just look at the fluid in the reservoir, if it’s black you have a bad Master cylinder… thanks for the video

[angelmurguia]

I replaced a rear passenger caliper and realised they gave me a driver side one after installing it and when i tried to bleed it cause some oil leaked, only a bit of oil came out with some bubble and then stopped flowing and the master cylinder was topped off. After all that i tested it and my break pedal felt sligtly softer and was making that whoosh sound when i pressed on the breaks, you covered thats caused by a faulty brake booster but should that be replaced or is it something you can live with ?