Mac Repairathon Part 6: Final stretch! The Mac Pluses.

The final part to this series. Fixing both Mac Plus machines.

Part 6: This part!

0:00 Intro

--- Tools

Deoxit D5:

Jonard Tools EX-2 Chip Extractor:

Wiha Chip Lifter:

O-Ring Pick Set: (I use these to lift chips off boards)

Elenco Electronics LP-560 Logic Probe:

Hakko FR301 Desoldering Iron:

Rigol DS1054Z Four Channel Oscilloscope:

Head Worn Magnifying Goggles / Dual Lens Flip-In Head Magnifier:

TL866II Plus Chip Tester and EPROM programmer: (The MiniPro)

TS100 Soldering Iron:

EEVBlog 121GW Multimeter:

DSLogic Basic Logic Analyzer:

Magnetic Screw Holder:

Universal ZIP sockets: (clones, used on my ZIF-64 test machine)

RetroTink 2X Upconverter: (to hook up something like a C64 to HDMI)

Plato (Clone) Side Cutters: (order five)

Heat Sinks:

Little squeezy bottles: (available elsewhere too)

--- Links

My GitHub repository:

Commodore Computer Club / Vancouver, WA – Portland, OR – PDX Commodore Users Group

--- C64 Stuff

JaffyDOS:

C64 Test Harness I use:

C64 Homebrew cartridge PCB: (used for the DeadTest / Diag Cart I use)

EasyFlash 3 Multi-Cart:

--- Instructional videos

My video on damage-free chip removal:

--- Music

Intro music by:
Nathan Divino
@itsnathandivino

Outro Music:
Attribution 4.0 International (CC BY 4.0)

[realnutteruk]

40 years ago, my dad worked for DEC... he'd take me into work in the evenings, and I could walk into a room with 200 VT100 terminals in it, and by listening for that whine, I could point out the one terminal which had not been turned off!!

[minombredepila]

This channel is amazingly good. First, you get astonished with how Adrian makes things easy and then you spent 20' reading the high-quality technical comments from the people. I love this channel Please keep the good work :-)

[SeanBZA]

Final board those capacitors you removed are dying, but were revived by the heat of desoldering them. Replace them, and readjust the 5V rail to get it spot on again.

[Plainapple]

I love this series, hopefully you’ll keep on with these Mac repair videos

[krnlg]

Hi Adrian,
I think when you measured the resistance of the caps (30:15), you were also charging caps on the board (from the meter) when the value was rising gradually - and discharging when it was falling gradually (it would depend which way round you connect the meter). So the resistance you measure will have depended on whether the board was recently powered and how long you measure for.

Love this series, just like I love your whole channel. Thanks for all your videos :)

[Dukefazon]

A little tip for handling high voltages. This machine has a normal ON-OFF switch so you could just turn it on, plug in a power cable that runs through an extension cord with a switch as well. And turn the extension cord's switch to cut power from the board. It looks scary every time you turn the switch on the machine itself so maybe it's a good idea to keep your switching option away from the actual board.

[gee-k]

Just binge watched all of the mac repairathon. I need more! MOOORE!
P.s. good work Adrian, always love seeing your attention to detail on all of the machines you work on.

[williamsquires]

No, the important thing about the X/Y-rated “safety” caps is the voltage rating, and substituting the right kind. As long as the capacitance is generally on the same order of magnitude as the original, you’re okay. They’re just for noise suppression. The A.C. Impedance of a 1 nF capacitor @ 60 Hz is around 2.6 Megohm. @ 120 VAC, that would create a leakage current of about 45 uA. And the capacitance of the one from neutral->earth doesn’t matter as there shouldn’t be any (significant) voltage there, anyway. HTH.

[borayurt]

Bad capacitors don't go up in value, they just seem to be up because of the way the meter uses to calculate their value. The meter applies a constant current and measures the time it takes the capacitor to charge up. Since the current is constant, the charge up time would be directly correlated to the capacitance. The larger the capacitance the more time it takes to charge up. When a capacitors ESR value has gone high, this resistance will cause a further current drop thus making the capacitor charge up slower than it should, this makes the meter think it has a higher value. Same applies for capacitors that has become leaky electrically. So, as a rule of thumb, if a capacitor is showing a much higher value than it's rating, (ie 25% or higher) it is always good practice to replace it. Great video as always, I love seeing old electronics coming back to life.

[mndlessdrwer]

As long as the cleaning process doesn't damage components, I sincerely doubt people would criticize you for it, except maybe in jest. You keep doing you.

[Yliannyx]

Younger naïve me made a massive mistake tossing a Classic II back in the early 2000’s. There wasn’t anything wrong with it except it needed the OS reinstalling and some peripherals. It was a spotless machine with a monitor with very low hours. That’s one of the mistakes I’ve made that I truly regret. Whoever picked it up at the recycling centre scored big time.
By the way, the cap on the HT lead from the flyback is important. It is needed to stop oxygen getting to the anode connection and prevent corona discharge. Loved this series, keep up the awesome work!

[tekk]

Sweet! Maybe do a series on howto handle those high voltage retro components, like tubes etc.. What to look out for - the do's and don't. Great series!

[OtherWorldExplorers]

From a military point of view
Your cleaning is needed. Visual inspection is the first step in troubleshooting. If the inside is dirty it makes it twice as hard.

[TedKekatos]

Adrian -- I dont own any macs, but watched your entire mac repair series. I enjoyed it very much. Great job.

[ast]

Hi Adrian, love your Mac repairs..you are very skillful and dedicated. This Repairathon is great ..I bet this mac is so thankful that it FINALLY got some new filter caps and cleaning job..after all these years..lol.

[andrethib]

around the 8 minute mark, when you were working behind the Mac and using the reflection in your monitor to observe the Mac screen, I had a childhood memory. Back in the late 60's/early 70's, TV repairmen came to the house; TVs then were big CRTs in even bigger wooden cabinets so they couldn't' easily be moved around. The TV repairmen would bring a mirror on a little stand to use to observe the screen while they worked on the TV from behind...

[raggededge]

The quality of these videos has gotten so much better. Another fun watch!

[EsotericArctos]

I usually just resolder all connectors and the flyback transformer when I have these things apart just as preventative maintenance. I really don't like having to reopen them :).
By the way, you definitely do need the Anode Cap and often the are sealed with silicon gel (which is usually what makes them feel sticky). The voltage is considerable and it will arc across to earth quite easily if tha anode cap doesn't seal nicely.
That Machine 1 could still be the flyback, but maybe it is just an intermittent fault. Hopefully it will run a while before it dies again :)
Thanks for taking us through this series of Mac restorations/repairs. It's been a fun journey.

[tylerpferrari]

I've watched every one of your videos. I've never owned any of these retro computers but your work and your video quality is top notch. Thanks so much for doing them. I hope you continue to do this for quite some time, Adrian!

[lightmagick]

I don't know why but I love watching old stuff being restored.
I'd love to see one of these YouTubers do a giveaway of something not working but including the parts they expect are needed to get it working. It's a weird idea I guess but I think it would be interesting.