Safe Engine Flush Using Diesel Gasoline

Flushing your engine might be a good idea at 100,000 miles. Just realize, diesel gasoline is a harsh chemical that eats away at gaskets and oil seals, as well as the oil sludge you're trying to remove. If you add enough diesel and let it soak for a long enough period it will eventually dissolve all those black, tarry deposits clogging your oil passages. At the same time, it will eat away at rubber.

So be safe. If you've never flushed an engine before, why not buy a safe commercial brand and follow the directions printed on the label? Usually, the only cars that need their engines flushed are ones that have not been properly maintained with regular oil changes. I regularly flush the Saturn featured in this video yet, for all the flushes I've done, this vehicle has never needed new oil seals or gaskets.

[jackmehoffer]

I flushed my turbo twin airplane with diesel fuel then I loaned it to my ex-wife and her pilot husband to visit his mother in Florida. It made it to Arkansas before the engine seized at 12, 000 ft. Good Job and thanks for the tip. and I don’t care if you do call it Diesel gasoline.

[dzigntist]

I used to flush with diesel but I did it different; I would drain old oil and add straight diesel then start the engine and let it idle for one minute. I would then wait for twenty minutes with engine off to let the diesel get into any sludge etc. I would then restart the engine and let it idle for another minute then shut engine off again and wait another twenty minutes. I would then restart for one minute, shut engine down and drain the diesel then add new oil and filter. Waiting the two twenty minute periods allowed for the sludge to breakdown and come out/off. I found this system worked well with no noticable problems.

[videomaniac]

I bought a used Porsche with about 55, 000 miles on it and took it to an oil change shop that offered a heated solvent oil flush that filtered the solvent through a large pleated white filter that was connected where the oil filter was. I was able to watch the solvent go from its original clear color to a brown color as it dissolved away sludge and deposits from the engine. After that I had a fresh oil filter and some cheap conventional oil of the proper viscosity put in that I ran for about a day. After that I changed the filter again and then put in high quality full synthetic(Redline) oil. The engine ran like a champ for over 150, 000 more miles, using very little oil between oil changes.

[kostasdramoudanis]

If he’s calling it diesel gasoline that should tell you something

[samwhite]

I've flushed out multiple high hp engines with diesel fuel with great results. The diesel will break down the sludge, not clog oil passages as most commenters are suggesting. Remember, the diesel fuel shouldn't be in the engine for more than a couple minutes. Drain and then flush with fresh oil 2-3 times.

[ndAmendProtector]

After flushing the diesel/oil mix, you MUST then add the minimum amount of oil to safely run the engine and let it idle for about 5 minutes. Then drain that oil. This will assure that ALL of the diesel fuel has been drained. If you don't do this extra step you will have too much diesel remaining in the crank case and throughout the engine. Then when you add the final new oil the viscosity rating of that oil will be changed in a very negative way and during the next few thousand miles you will be slowly damaging and wearing the bearings out in the engine from that lower viscosity. You will not have the proper protection if its diluted with that left-behind diesel fuel from the first flush.

[wymple]

I've been flushing engines with diesel for over 50 years, always good & never ruined anything. The old red ATF worked well and so does Marvel Mystery oil. Too many people who complain about the results were trying to resurrect a shot engine looking for some magic, then blame the diesel or whatever solvent they tried in desperation.

[siamanspaps]

Honestly this is bullshit most any engine suspected of negligent oil changes but running ok could ever need is:
1. Drain old oil
2. Remove Oil pan and oil pickup tube.
3. Brake clean the fuck out of Oil pan, pickup tube and pay special attention to the mesh on pickup tube.
4. Put everything back together with fresh seals and gaskets.
5. Fresh oil + fresh oil filter
6. Drive as usual for 1000km
7. Fresh oil + Fresh oil filter
8. Continue a oil change interval the manufacturer recommends by the book, but ignore it if recommends more than 10 000 KM - Change oil at least every 10 000 KM

[MNJay]

My '04 Ford Escape developed a loud, very noticeable ticking sound after it warmed up. One needs to understand the inner components working in an emgine. In my case, as well as many other vehicle brands, lifters are designed to operate in an independent manner between valve openings. There's a small port opening on the side that gets covered up upon required use of the lifter to open the valve. If that port becomes plugged from sludge (failure to change oil and filter at regulate intervals, or sediment contamination from outside source), the lifter can be stuck full of oil (solid lifter) or won't let any oil in at all, creating what's called, a flat lifter. There are many products on the market that help clean and flush the engine internally. All contain the same desired chemicals. Solvents and or detergents. Whatever the differences of these product solvents and detergents are is irrelevant. Their performance is what matters. Marvel Mystery Oil is a great engine cleaner. Use exactly as directed. In the case of my Ford Escape, my mechanic (Very trustworthy, capable and reasonable guy) told me to add a quart of transmission fluid to the engine, on top of the oil already In the engine. Start and run (at IDLE ONLY) for 30 minites. Drain the oil and remove the filter. Put new oil in and new filter. Drive for 100 miles. Change oil again. Within 5 minutes of the engine warming up, the lifter noise disappeared. Transmission fluid has excellent lubrication and detergent properties. I have not had a problem since. Using diesel fuel in the manner and quantities described in this video is safe. As with the transmission fluid technique, run the engine at IDLE ONLY. Don't rev it up. Don't drive it. Otherwise, everything the method he used is perfectly acceptable. The best method overall is to use high quality oil, high quality filters and change them often. Brand new cars under warranty should be changed regularly by the dealership. After warranty, continue to change oil regularly and flush at least once a year or so. With whatever technique you feel comfortable with.

[florolland]

Comments and people are so stupid ! Flush the engine with diesel is a wellknown practice. But people prefer to buy "THE" product sale in the best shop of their town and this product will transform their engine in a very good caramel !! :-) Nice video dude.

[isbemorph]

4:12 yea but how much pressure was it making huh? Healthy engine can survive this kind of flush, but some may not, especially those without brass cam bushings.

[kllgrogto]

I didn't see any sludge coming out? I thought that fresh oil was gonna get all dark with all of the sludge but it came out clean, something is wrong

[pencintamisteri]

Thank goodness, I'm glad I tried doing it first and yet read all the comments. My engine run's so smooth and saves my gas alot.thanks you

[jasonbeatty]

Sure, I’ll listen to a guy who thinks “diesel gasoline” is a thing.

[charlespratt]

It's okay folks. It was only a Saturn. How much more damage could it cause?

[barrythomas]

I did a diesel flush on a Subaru 2.2 with a ticking lifter. Worked like magic (yes 2.2 had hydraulic lifters )

[tarquineous]

There is no such product as "Diesel Gasoline". There is Diesel Fuel however. They are not to be mixed together.

[jeffstone]

Sea foam can be used as a flush. Directions are on the can... it will not damage seals.

[budrandolph]

I fully agree with your flushing video using diesel fuel. Years ago I was driving a Pontiac Grand Prix with a 400 cubic inch engine. I was cash poor and only changed the oil occasionally, never before 10, 000 miles But every other year I flushed the motor with 4 quarts of Diesel and 1 quart of fresh Pennzoil I then added 5 quarts of straight 30 weight Pennzoil. I drove the car 465, 00 miles without any kind of engine failure.and never had the heads off. To this day I still use Pennzoil, but now with my PTGT ( turbo) I use 5 30 weight oil ( factory recommended viscosity ) It is a 2003 model with 184, 00 trouble free miles.Thanks for sharing...Mr. Randolph.

[TheBigO-kg]

THE ONLY THING YOU NEED TO DO TO EXTEND ENGINE LIFE IS TO DO VERY REGULAR OIL AND FILTER CHANGES. NOTHING ELSE.