TFS: TIG Simple - Does it Matter How You Sharpen Tungsten?

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The ultimate question... "Does it matter how you sharpen tungsten?" Maybe... In today's TIG Simple episode, Justin the Fabricator investigates different ways to sharpen a tungsten and compares them to one another. Surprisingly, it needs more investigation.

Tell us what you think in the comments below!

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Yes the grind matters. You do not want it to be ground helically as this will cause arc wander. During arc on periods there is an electron flow going down the tungsten to the work piece. If your tungsten is not longitudinally grained/polished and has a helical grain you will get arc wander. This is caused by the electron flow being scattered off of the tip of the tungsten due to the circumferential graining redirecting some of the electrons. Always grain/polish longitudinally. It is recommended that you leave a very small flat spot on the end of your tungsten grind. The test showed this quite well actually. The nice grained 2nd tungsten with the flat focused the arc the best.

slaughterandmayhem
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Dont matter how i sharpen my tungsten, i find after 5 minutes i have dipped and have to do it again anyways.

amacca
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I usually use the bench grinder or belt sander, but I was taught to point the tungsten downward in the same direction the grinder/sander is moving. I think depending on the results you are trying to achieve, there is also alittle wiggle room with the angle you hold the tungsten to the grinder.

coreywellons
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Well, if you check 'Miller info', you find that you have an inverse relationship between extreme taper and amps, so that the higher the amps, the lower angle you should use (to preserve tip life). HOWEVER, as you kinda showed here, sharper angles lead to PRECISION spots...so it comes down to what you are trying to do...22-gauge sheet lap-welds? severe angle (say, 15-20 degrees). 1/8" wall stainless tubing? robust angle at say, 25-28 degrees. The 'grind finish' is actually important, too...the finish being smoother will actually lead to tighter heat zones and 'more distinguished' heat bands...vs rough finish giving a more dispersed heat band...I personally haven't got the CNC or 'steady hand' enough to see if it impacts the actual weld 'smoothness' or not, but my first guess would be 'it should'.

skeetersaurus
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The angles are no constant so the arcs will not be same.

SuperFunkmachine
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You should try the diamond wheel inside of a Drill Doctor drill bit sharpener, just as good as a tungsten grinder.

liquidrushu
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OK...found this channel by accident...but I like it and subscribed...but let me tell you why..
I've been fabricating race cars, off road toys and doing special effects for the movies for oh say 30 years...And got pretty good at it...BUT you will never hear me say "I know it all..."
actually love to watch other good guys to see how they do their fab and guess what? I always learn a new thing or two, or a better way of doing something...and I've had guys with years in the business learn a thing or two from me...so bring it on!
Thanks for taking the time do do these videos!

Titantrampu
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I'm better at sharpening tungsten than welding haha

vwbeetle
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Try a gauge block to ensure the same gap between the point of the tungsten and the coupon. Also make sure you have the same tungsten stick out. Interesting video.

mikemoore
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I use a diamond wheel from a chainsaw sharpening kit that harbor freight sales. It's on my 4.5" angle grinder and chuck my tungsten in my drill takes about 3 seconds. I also made a small guide block that attaches to the handle so I'm the grinds are always consistent

motoxrrar
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I completely think it matters. I use a 4" flat diamond grinding wheel from Harbor Freight. $8. Only used to sharpen tungsten. I use it in the field, in the shop, and at home. On a angle grinder with the tungsten in a drill. I get a perfect finish on the tungsten with minimal dust. 👍🏼

culter
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Try grinding one with a twist or spiral and another with the scratches running straight down the tungsten and one with a smooth finish . Then test it up close to a wall to simulate welding the bottom of a hole. You'll find the straight down and the smooth will weld the bottom only and the twist will arc against the side wall also .

catfishbobj
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Diamond 4" bench grinder wheel, 1" wide..had it for years and still works like no other

janes-e
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I use a flap disk 120 or 220 grit and hit it with red and green Scotch-Brite pad after it sharp when you give it a good polish and weld's super great for me.

zackthomas
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Point the end that is being sharped toward the direction of rotation of the sharpener. Doing so will avoid foreign matter inclusion in the tungsten. It will also aid in several other ways. Don't allow the tungsten to get very hot while sharpening in order to avoid oxidation. Follow up with a type of buffing wheel to polish the grind marks out of the tungsten. Something like a scotch bright wheel should do the trick.

waynecoots
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does it make a difference how you sharpen a tungsten? Yes. Does it really matter how you sharpen ? No, any medium skilled welder can work around the minute differences.
Been welding for years and i just use the tool that have available at that moment. How i sharpened my tungsten has never been the source of a bad weld.

SuperMike
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I use a 4" diamond coated wheel on an angle grinder in place of a flap disk. Can't really comment on quality of arc difference but it sharpens to a point easier and doesn't burn into the disc. I've used my fingers to spin it as well as a drill, I prefer finger spinning it because it seems my drills all end up with an oblong uneven cone shape. (Drill chucks are probably making it wobble)

kurtisjohnson
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I actually prefer not to let the tungsten get red hot while sharpening, dip it in water to keep it cool since it isn't being shielded by argon while out of the torch. I usually just use a belt sander and my hands or a tungsten vice when it gets short.

Jrez
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Excellent video! Setting the tungsten to a consistent depth would improve your testing consistency. It appears that cone angle makes the largest difference. Thanks again for a great comparison.

ls
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When I started TIG back in the days of dinosaurs we used the disc method (option 4).
Specialized tools as a tungsten sharpener seem overkill for spot welding nickel packages. Guess in industrial use time concerns and productivity come into play in the equation.
It could be worth while spending 30 sec.+ on sjarpening if you use it for occasional sharpening.
If you end up having to redo it 40 times a day, that extra 20 minutes spent can match 100 completed spots or items in my case.
That would equate to some 10% loss of productivity.

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