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How To Spot A Cheap Suit - Gentleman's Gazette
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SHOP THE VIDEO:
00:00 Introduction
00:33 1. Collar
You'll need to flip up the collar and look at the seam underneath. In a cheap suit, this seam will always be machine-made. So how can you tell it's a machine-made stitch? Usually, it's like a very regular triangle versus a handmade stitch is irregular.
01:19 2. Buttonholes
You can identify handmade buttonhole by flipping over the buttonhole from the back and if it's irregular, it is handmade. If it's machine-made, it is very very regular and it looks about the same as it doesn't in the front. That being said, you can also have a really crappy sewn handmade buttonhole which doesn't make for a nice suit.
02:45 3. Fabric Reserve
Why would you need one? If you want to alter your garment; it's always good to have extra fabric, otherwise, you cannot make anything bigger. On a cheap suit, the three and a half yards of fabric is probably the most expensive part in the entire suit and so manufacturers try to cut corners and minimize the use of fabric wherever they can.
03:50 4. Stitching
First, I look at how the lining is sewn into the sleeve at the end of the sleeve, if it's sewn in by hand it's likely a quality suit, if it's sewn in by machine, it's different. There are two kinds; on the one end you can have it sewn in so there is no flexibility and that's a very cheap suit, on the other hand, you can sew it in by machine with a stitch it is very loose and it's a better way and it's also what you get with a handmade stitch.
04:43 5. Buttons
Most cheap suits have plastic buttons. Sometimes the buttons look painted and it's because they are, on the other hand, I have also seen higher-end plastic buttons that are made to look like horn buttons and it's much more difficult to determine a difference. Sometimes you can take two buttons together and look for a specific sound, I find that works quite well.
05:59 6. Lining
Another great way to spot a cheap suit is by identifying if it's a polyester lining or not. Quality suits have linings made out of sometimes viscose which is less expensive. A higher-end option would be silk, sometimes you also see cotton, but very cheap suits have polyester lining or blends with polyester.
06:47 7. Outer Fabric Material
Most quality suits are made out of a hundred percent wool, the problem is, manufacturers can sometimes add one or two percent of an artificial fiber and still call it a hundred percent. In that case, you have to rely on the brand and look for a brand label.
08:00 8. Glued Or Fused Interlining?
When you have the suit in front of you, what you can do is you can take the upper layer of the fabric and pinch it with your finger. If you can actually remove this layer from the layer that's underneath a bit and you can still feel it, it means you have a suit with a canvas that was sewn; if that's not possible, it means you have a fused garment, sometimes a fused garment is also a lot stiffer especially if it's a cheaper suit so if something doesn't drape well and feels very plasticky and thick, it's probably a cheap suit.
#howtospotacheapsuit #menssuits #notsponsored
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Gentleman's Gazette
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