Vid 2/2 Testing, DIY How to build & What is a thermoelectric generator, module, cooler, peltier

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Testing MA and Volts. What is a thermoelectric generator, module, cooler? This is a DIY, homemade, how to experiment with ten TEC1-12706 thermoelectric coolers (TEC) and a DC-DC USB 0.9V-5V to 5V dc boost step-up power supply module to charge a cell in an emergency.
In 1821, T. J. Seebeck discovered that different metals, known as a thermocouple, will develop a micro-voltage if the junctions are held at different temperatures. This is known as the "Seebeck effect".
In 1834, Jean Peltier discovered the inverse of the Seebeck effect, known as the "Peltier effect". By applying a voltage to a thermocouple, a temperature differential between two sides is created.
A thermoelectric module, also called a thermoelectric cooler or Peltier cooler, is a semiconductor-based electronic component that functions as a small reliable heat pump with no moving parts. By applying a low voltage to a thermoelectric module, heat will be moved through the module from one side to the other. One module face will be cooled, while the opposite face is simultaneously heated.
A thermoelectric module can also be used for power generation: a thermoelectric module creates a voltage when there is a different temperature on each side. The second law of thermodynamics states that heat will move to a cooler area. Essentially, the module will absorb heat on the "cold side" and eject it out the "hot side", to a heat sink.
Thermoelectric modules have been in use for a number of years.

As with any do-it-yourself project, unfamiliarity with the tools and process can be dangerous. This video should be construed as non expert, informational advice. I, will not be held responsible for any injury or damage due to the misuse or misunderstanding of any DIY project or videos. By Watching or following anything in this video, you assume all risks associated with using the experimental information or advice given, with a full understanding that you, solely, are responsible for anything that may occur as a result of putting this information into action in any way, and regardless of your interpretation of the advice.
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This has helped me no end. No experiment is a bad experiment. Even results that at first do not seem to turn out as expected teach us so much. Thanks for your time. Well done! Keep up the good work sir....

Lardster
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Hi Ray, i have done some extensive testing with these modules and thought i might drop you a comment. For temperature dont want to exceed around 420 C.. about 788 degrees F. They can handle quite a bit of heat but if you exceed that the junctions inside the module will begin to break down and the module will fail. They can however produce alot more energy than what you are getting i have had one single module at 4 volts near 500 ma. i would not run that continually but did run it that way for 3 hours. The trick to that is realize that if you put heat on one side, you can put cold on the other, that will work, but for the best efficiency its how fast you can remove the heat from the opposite side. A plate of ice water will work but its not letting the heat pass thru the module and escape its forcing the module to heat the ice water and water has a very high specific heat so its basically trapping the heat in the module not letting it excape. Think of an internal combustion engine the faster the air in and out the more horsepower. this is kinda the same way but its the faster heat goes in, and it taken away you will get more electricity.. copper and aluminum both have great absorbtion rates which is why they are used in heat sinks. the faster and farther you move that heat away from that side of the module the better the result will be. Try heating one side with a candle and using a thick piece of aluminum or a heat sink on the other with water moving across the aluminum from a little fountain pump into a container full of room temp water and circulating, I guarantee you will see a significant increase in electrical generation, more than before and enough to power that little pump with more left over than what you are producing now. Give it a shot

themickey
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Very cool. Thanks for showing us. Like you said in an emergency with nothing more than tea candle and some cold water you can start up a cell phone or led light

sunsensational
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I appreciate you doing this experiment. I was considering doing a very similar experiment, and you basically saved me the work. I love the idea of using the peltier effect to generate power, but this level of power generation for the cost is so low. The amount of heat that needs to go through in order to get some amount of power is very high as well. Don't get me wrong there are some uses for this type of power, generation, but ultimately buying a battery are periodically replacing it might be much cheaper.

cryptickcryptick
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Thanks for sharing your results. I've been curious about this for some time.

CedarworkshopNet
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thanks a lot for doing this! Helped me a lot!

MisterPuP
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if the power go's out you have light right there :). I found running LEDs was the best use for them :)

JustinCaseSolarPower
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The phone is a Motorola V3, the battery is 3.6V Li-Ion 680 mAh battery :) I like that 5V booster. I have 5 of them. I use one wired to some 18650 Li-Ion batteries from old laptop battery, and they are been charged from a 5.5V 140mAh solar cell. And it works great. Cool video!

CrazyRocker
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Great work, I have a question, how many mA ans volts can produce each cell? Also you mention to another kind of cells, more expensive, can you tell me which is? Can you post the link where you buy the cells??
Thanks a lot from Chile

jimic
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Did you try how much heat it can stand? Enjoyed the video, by the way. :)

MihaiER
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The amperage jumping around is because the output is being "shorted out" by the phone because the TECs cannot output enough to satisfy the booster.  When the booster sees the short it restarts the continues.  It is kind of acting like a MPPT (maximum power point tracking).

IceProducts
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now in theory if I had the TEG's cooling side face up under a thin sheet of metal that has constantly running water on it would I be able to use an incandescent light bulb to keep it going as long as I gave it a "jump start" with a different source to get it going?this is assuming that I had enough to produce the required power to light an incandescent bulb

redactedredacted
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You need a load to test amperage too, with out current you got zilch...zero times five or zero times 15 still is zero...

SolarizeYourLife
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Also for what i just posted, if you need help or would like me to post diagrams of my setup or pictures just ask would be more than happy to share what i have learned :) i connected 300 of these in series and parallel my generator is 4 feet by 8 feet long and produces about 300 to 500 watts

themickey
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why it turns off? because the power you are putting into the booster goes bellow 0.5 v. now if you look at it the five volts you got were becase having no load the generator acted as a capacitor and accumulated energy. Once you put the load the "capacitor" discharges and since you are not generating enogh energy y can not go back to a decent value but since the booster is designed to draw when the generator gets to the 0.5 volts and generates 600 mA equals to 0.3w. you need more heat but replace the booster with a 12 v charger because at full power you should more than 25v and you will blow the booster or put them in parallel and keep the booster. good luck and good job. att Martin (amateur)

Martinsebas
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How I miss the flashing low battery indicator on mobile phones
I wonder why apple didn't include it

mewantbrains
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Remove one of the Aluminium pans to put the side that should be cold to tge ground, put it into water make a fire in the pan.
If you camp at a greater water source this would be much more efficient.

Sebastian-wmes
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How do u have such low voltage? I use just one on a heated piece of metal and it gives me 6v minimum.

hellishgrin
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Nice try but a few things you didnt catch on before starting. Firstly the only difference between a TEC and and TEG is how you use it. They are identical manufacturing process and function exactly the same. Second you are using the lowest powered units on the market (That's why it was so cheap). There are other like the TEC1-12730 which puts out 12v 30Amp (360 watts). they are about $45-50 for two units. Thirdly the premise on how a Thermocouple works is the greater the temperature differential the more power it will produce. For best results use a hotplate or stove on med heat and cool with a circulating glycol (antifreeze) solution through a small radiator assembly (transmission coolers work great) with a large computer fan (12v) usually they are only rated to 1-5 watts. I have test this and got almost 400 watts of usable power.

buffalo_chips
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how long you can burn this thing util broken?

nikonji