Voron TAP Install and Setup - #3dprinting

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Voron TAP is the new toolhead mount for Voron Design printers that allows you to use the printers nozzle itself as an extremely accurate (up to 0.0004mm) reliable bed probe.
In todays video we are installing and setting it up!
Cheers to LDO motors for the kit, you can find them at many vendors who carry Voron parts and kits

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I couldn't recognize you for a good second without the apron but then the beard gave it away, and I was like oh okay it's him...

mutlubasdas
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Great video! getting ready for my voron 2.4 build.. definitely going to go with this probe! would love to see a video explaining all the different iterations of the tool head. There seem to be quite a few and It would be helpful to see all the available options ;)

asocialconsciousness
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think its the way to go thanks for the good tips i wanna build one soon and it helps allot

DJ-Hollandica
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That intro killed me, well done sir, LMAO!

bartacus
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goodness I would love a more in depth dive into z-offset with tap, my system gets calibrated and then still prints 1.5mm above the bed

amperesi
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Nice! We need a version for the Voron0.

tinhead
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Thanks for the video, works like a champ

CarolinaCowboys
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Eh cool but adding more complexity and room for error I think. Bltouch style probes will always be my favorite I think.

redline
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I haven't had any luck with that click switch behind the bed. It was always off by a bit and even scraped my bed. If this transforms my Voron from "I need to babysit the first layer EVERY TIME" to fire and forget I don't care about any extra weight.

ensoniqk
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Great job, the video was informative and clean. I don't own any Voron printers however I'd feel comfortable in using this guide if I ever do.

BloodCat
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Thank you! This video saved me a lot of time!

hobbyistnotes
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Like the Duet smart effector. Use that on my Delta, pretty awesome. Interested in the Piezo Orion. Cool to see Voron also doing their own design.

velvia
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Had a similar system by @properprinting on one of my machines, works perfectly, but, and this is a big but, it needs the nozzle to be hot, otherwise the cold molten filament will mess the first layer most of the time during use, especially if using a Volcano. I removed it, have an inductive probe now.

toma.cnc
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Good video... btw what electric srewdriver is that?

rayrod
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Great video!
This has put me back in the right direction. Just tapping it in, Just tapping it in ;-)

doubledeckerbus-foundation
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Very great job
I hope to make a video of how to install BTT UPS 24V V1.0 RESUME PRINTING for power losses recovery on the klipper
There is no explanation or video of how to install it on YouTube

ashraffahem
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i prefer the probe to be normally closed, so if the probe system fails, it wont even move anymore (self check)
And as i wrecked 4 inductive probes in just 1 year (maybe because bad quality.. who knows) - this is a good solution for me.

hanswurstusbrachialus
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I often get a tiny blob of filament sticking to the tip of the nozzle after it cooled down (which oozed out while still hot). I suspect this could affect the readings. Do you have any soution for that on hand, or is this no problem?
Maybe one could implement a cooldown routine which whipes the nozzle on a brush till its cold enough, so it would stay clean.

I'm really loving the design and am considering it for a build. It completely eliminates the need of calibrating the probe.

marvingudel
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Is this done hot or code? You mentioned a 150c max temp so I'm assuming cold. There is always a small bit of plastic remaining on the tip of the nozzle (very tiny, but still there) How is that compensated for? That tiny bit of plastic changes after ever print and would therefor change the offset each homing sequence. Maybe preheat the nozzle for the homing sequence, the filament would squish out of the way.

Mogalize
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Hey just wondering which printer you are using the most between your trident and your 2.4 R2 as I'm thinking of building one or the other.

danielvondrathen
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