How to Install Rubber Vent Pipe Boot on Metal Roof Super Easy

In this quick tutorial, I show you our method of installing a rubber vent pipe boot on a metal roof. It is a super easy method and if done properly should guarantee a leak free roof penetration. Do you best, caulk the rest. In this instance, do not go cheap on your sealant! Vent pipe flashing is usually the last thing done on a metal roof, so I am not sure of a better way, but this has been rock solid so far.

If you know a better way, let me know with a comment and a link. I am always up for learning better ways.

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Metabo HPT Triple Hammer

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[ralphkeener]

Quick tip...when applying sealant don't start your bead at the most critical point of potential water intrusion (top of the diamond). Start at the point you want your bead to end and apply sealant in one continuous application toward the termination point. In warm/hot low humidity environments it only takes a few moments of delay or distraction for the initial bead to skin over, creating the potential for the finish bead to pull away from the joint at the first bead as it cures, causing seal failure weeks or months later.

[wonderamalandfamilyfuncent]

I like to prefit the boot, then pencil scribe the pipe, pull the boot off then run a bead of sealant on the line, then as the boot goes back on it firm a nicer seal on the inside, then caulk the outside black rubber as well.
creates a noise solid bead inside and out for double sealing protection, I also seal the pipe area to roof before boot goes on

[johnbrandetsas]

I love that you angled the boot. It lets the water shed away.

[kp.]

That many screws are absolutely necessary . When we first started putting metal roofs on 10 years ago we had some pop up because of wider screw spacing.. we also always put sealant around the pipe inside the boot, in my opinion that is a necessary step, just an extra layer of protection. Love your videos by the way.

[markschneberger]

You can also apply a bead of sealant slightly higher than where the top of the boot will be located BEFORE you slide the boot over the vent pipe. This insures the boot is sealed on the inside as well.

[RMike]

I do mine the exact way! Except I put a "v" shaped bead of caulk around the pipe first to shed any water from the hole. It could possibly hold water in the boot and still get in, but it could leak out first before entering the hole if it makes sense....

Great job!!

[sonic_attack]

If you make the penetration hole slightly smaller than what’s required, then create an upturn with a bend using pliers around the hole you’re giving a lot of extra insurance. It’ll create a solid wall right on the hole. I make mine around 10mm tall. Slight bends with pliers then tap it vertical with the hammer.

[anthonynyman]

Never mind the boot, the job on that valley is awesome! Clean lines and well done!

[philharper]

Hey Kyle, just throwing this out... after finishing installing the boot, cut the metal off another boot and pull it down over the first. Double seal and the top will protect the under from dry rot by sun. I also paint the pipe by placing protection for over spray and paint pipe and silver metal with truck bed liner spray. Makes the pipe blend in and extra protection for the screws and rubber grommets.

[ryanwilson]

When I re-roofed my house with standing seam, I remember reading a detail where you would use 2 roofing panels. The lower one gets a horseshoe shaped cut in the top to allow it to run 6" or so past (above) the pipe penetration. Then install a typical shingle-style flashing boot. Finally, install the upper roofing panel over the top half of the flashing boot. No exposed fasteners, and a clean horizontal seam in the roof panels right at the flashing boot. However, I chose to re-route my vents out the side wall under the eaves and elbow up to get my clearance over the roof, because I couldn't bear to poke any holes in that brand new metal!

[markbroughton]

On my personal stuff, I also slide a regular shingle jack over that. You get another rubber pipe seal plus it keeps the rubber boot out of the sun. The rubber dries out, cracks, and starts a leak on the pioe. So the extra one protects the moulded rubber. I use the galvalume &rubber jack.

[francoisbouvier]

Very good video. 👍 The one added comment that impressed me was, "always willing to get more knowledge "

[mikenicholson]

The guys in my area caulk around the pipe first then put the boot on. They use the brand name Thru The Roof caulking. Also the boots they use are a round flange. Cool trick with the square flange boot.👍👍👍

[pwengert]

Kyle, you do such an awesome job explaining things. We saw a builder from Iowa do this a while back on his channel & you both did it the same! You mist be doing it right then! I was surprised at all the screws these boots require. Looks good! Have a blessed weekend.

[robscherman]

I have very successfully used epdm "witches hat" for more than a decade. Just make sure to wipe down the metal first to remove any contaminants. Apply quick primer, let dry them stick the witches hat and roll the part that contacts the metal. I also apply the sealant just like you did. It's great to see people who take pride in their work.

[mr.potato]

We custom make a flashing all soldered up and layer it between the panels. Instead of running one long panel with a hole for the pipe we run a panel up to the pipe then overlap our flashing over the pipe with standing seems then put another panel on top of that up the rest of the way. Depending on the pitch of the roof we might add caulking between layers as well as a hook at the top of each panel/flashing to catch wind blown rain. But all of this is for custom panels we hand bend in our shop so I’m not sure how applicable this would be for you. Also the flashing is made from metal that’s solderable like galvanized but has a coating that is paint ready and we just paint to match after soldering.

[rachelgerber]

Thanks for quality tutorials! Takes a lot of the stress out of projects. Keep up the impeccable work!

[pwashcroft]

We put a pipe clamp on the top of the boot. Love the diamond detail.

[benjammin]

You can use a hose clamp around the flashing and pipe to secure the two, also a storm collar close to the flashing for insurance.

[youtubestolemyhandle]

I will attempt to use one or multiple studor vents just under the deck. No penetration necessary. I know they restrict air flow, but meet code. Worse case, I have to penetrate and will use same method in the video. Never had a leak with those boots, even with a flue for a wood stove. Good job and thanks for the video.