07-13 GMC Chevrolet Engine / Motor Mount Replacement Silverado Sierra Yukon Tahoe Denali Suburban

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single motor mount

Both motor mounts

usually the driver (Left) side is the first to go bad
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Process for 4wd:

*Remove wheel/tire
*Remove inner fender well
*Disconnect electrical connections in the way
*Remove exhaust manifold heat shield
*Remove broken mount heat shield (ripped it out by hand)
*Remove mount bolts
*Jack up engine using catalytic converter, this will create enough space to maneuver the old mount out. It's like a puzzle but it can be removed through that space.
*Install new mount
*Reassemble

Did this today, it was a bear of a job, the worst part was the bottom mount bolts that did not want to come out. The threads are exposed to the elements and have a lot of built up crud. No way to access them to clean them I just sprayed them with penetrating oil and kept working the bolts back and forth. About a 4 hour job. Once the mount was unbolted I was able to manipulate it through that space by turning it upside down and around.

I put the new mount in the same way I took the old mount out, it took some finesse but I was able to get the new mount in place relatively easy. If you're having a hard time Jack the engine up some more. I took the time to clean the bolts and the threads before reinstalling so that I would not have a hard time with the bolts going back in.

I did not have to drop the front diff, I did not remove the steering shaft and nor did I remove the exhaust manifold. So it can be done without removing any of those items.

zachariahz
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Decent freaking video. So sick of others saying to lock the steering wheel and remove the steering arm under the hood. They say it makes you have a “little more work room” which may be true, BUT, people will be sorry when they dont mark where things line back up and there alignment feels off because the wheel is no longer straight. DO IT THIS WAY THIS VIDEO SHOWS PEOPLE PLEASE! He is doing IT the CORRECT WAY. Don’t make extra work for yourself. Also for those asking about the passengers side. Its the same part/mount for both sides and literally the same process. The only thing you have to do on the passenger side is remove the tire and the wheel well. You can remove it enough to bend outta the way or take it all the way off so you aren’t fighting it flopping back on your arm while you’re unbolting the mount.

On a side note Advance Auto sells the ANCHOR BRAND MOTOR MOUNT, Part # 3211 FOR $90 bucks EACH! Doesn’t even come with the heat shield either which you need! Amazon sells the EXACT SAME PART for $30 lol. Reviews are pretty crappy on it too. For $90 a side just buy an oem AC Delco factory replacement mount. But as a mechanic from PA this guy here does it correctly. Its not hard. Takes about 30-45 minutes if you are mechanically inclined or 1 hr and a half for the drivers side and probably 2 hours for the passenger side if you are new at working on cars. Take your time and take pictures on your phone if you’re unsure of yourself. Watch your fingers that they don’t get smashed too incase your lift of the engine method fails. He has correct tools but if you are using incorrect methods be extra careful lol.

Great Video explaining location of bolts, the size and type of sockets to use, and thank GOD for the Milwaukee impact lol. Im a new subscriber for sure!

One clue I wanna add as to why these mounts go bad often for some is (and I mean this seriously) is if you have a bad front strut and the vehicle is sitting lower on one side It stresses your sway bar and can break the sway bar bushing clamp bolts or even the sway bar linkages, and if really bad enough YES it will stress the heck outta the motor mounts and will keep rebreaking.

Keep up on maintenance to save money in the long run. Learn from me when i was young and dumb lol. It happens. Don’t beat yourself up. But like this dude says, YOU CAN DO IT.

Some of these videos make it sound like you’re rebuilding the motor or something. Hardest part like he tells you here is wiggling the motor mount out.

Thank You for putting out correct information and detailed information.

**Also hit like and subscribe if this video helped you. It will help him and thats the least we can do to show appreciation. 👍 This took his time and cameras and editing not to mention knowledge. Lets help each other out. Thank You Sir!

Incorewrecktoe
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Just did this for my 2011 Yukon XL this afternoon. Took me about 3 hours- about 30 minutes to get the old one out and 2 and a half hours to get the new one in 😂. Thanks for the video! Saved me from removing a lot of unnecessary stuff!

mattgatlin
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I bought a DEA.MARMON D5 A5365 Ride control mount from RA - defective metal design, would not fit right into the frame channel of my sons 2009 5.3 silverado. wasted 3 hours trying to get it working - then went to autozone and plunkted down 3x as much on a duralast that fit perfectly. btw - a friend said to NEVER jack by a Cat. Converter because the smallest dent or deformation can cause the inside to shatter, creating a really expensive fix. Thanks for the video, it saved a lot of time and helped my planning. BTW. changed the $15 trans mount too, and it was completely rotted away into two pieces - three 15mm bolts. I did not remove the steering shaft, but I did remove the heat shield (15mm) and will safety wire and RTV red the shield back in place next .

tonyd
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"It's really not that hard..."

...with 9' of socket extensions, a socket swivel, a lift, X-ray vision, and several hundred dollars of tools you probably don't have. 😂 Don't forget the several hours of vigorous swearing!

drsnooz
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1:30 the metal shredding off the bolt while being undone is just another small minute detail often over looked while working

largepizza
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The oil vs heat on mount is killing it bro!

johnpaid
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I did mine in my 2014 Yukon Denali AWD both sides in 2hrs with A floor Jack and an engine hoist on the floor

OMG
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This mount job is no joke. The heat shield
Is the biggest problem with the job

joncrall
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I’ve done mechanic my whole life, one of the toughest jobs I’ve done in a long time, 2013 chevy 1600 4x4. If you don’t have too much experience please avoid yourself the hassle and pay to get it done.

JESSEPAVON
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What about if you have long tube headers? Got a price from a 3 shops which all say $1, 000+ just for labor for both mounts, no parts because I bought the Atomic mounts, because they will need to removed both long tube headers to swap the engine mounts. For my wife’s 2013 Yukon Denali 2wd with rhe 6.2L. Will also have to do my 2012 Silverado 6.2L with long tubes that’s 4x4 but it has a 15” lift on it so hoping it will be easier with the diff drop from the lift kit. The long tubes are the primary concern, do they really need to be removed?

ddlife
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I have a stock height Silverado. Since I don't have access to a lift, do you think there's enough room to lay underneath the truck and jack the motor up using a floor jack and a regular jack stand?

justinxmusic
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Using the exhaust manifold will break off bolts on your exhaust manifolds. This creates another problem with these vehicles. The jacking is better done with a 2x4 and jack on the oil pan.

suzannetaylor
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Thank you for this video. Autoshop acted like they had to pull my motor completely out to access

jwplus
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This comment section is whack lol He gets on here and takes time out of his own day to make a video to help someone and y’all hate on him for doing a video on a 2wd instead of 4x4. Y’all are something else lmao

robertortega
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I have a 2012 Silverado 1500. Took the driver side but can't get to all top screws on passenger side. Any tips?

Beltramstein
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I'd like to see you do a 4WD model.

AlbertDOnofrio
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Watched enough to decide to drive to my mechanic

TheOakFather
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I'd love to watch him do it on a four-wheel drive model I just did one and I literally defied the system it came out right through the driver side fender well

traeestpierre
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Great video! Thank you for the confidence builder!

seancollins