How to 'Scorpion' like Janja Garnbret (Underrated Technique)

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⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Context
00:32 Consequences of not using this technique...
01:00 The secret about this technique
02:17 This routine + 2 BONUS exercises are on CRIMPD!
02:47 Find the form
03:34 Refine the form
04:26 Try it on the wall
05:55 Add complexity
07:56 Add complexity and physicality

📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 144

⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.

🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS

#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy

[jinbas]

Was actually discussing this with my brother earlier today and was trying to come up with drills to get rid of this bad habit i've developed of cutting cannonball style. Think a lot of it comes from trying to avoid dabs on sitstarts since we have A LOT of them around here. This video couldnt have come at a better time. Thank you!

[icyfigher]

The best part of the scorpion kick is that it is incredibly pleasing to watch and do. It just feels good. I hate it when you re close to the ground and need to cannonball to not touch the ground.

[silentdiscretion]

I love how useful it actually is. Most of the time, when something is super flashy like this, it's usually just that. Flashy. But this is flashy and useful, and I'm so happy about that

[nilsunger]

Great video and great home wall. Would be great to have a video about your home wall setup. Thx for your content

[derbaum]

Damn, my thoughts:
-No idea if I'm doing that or not so super excited to try it out and see
-So incredibly useful to see Jason try the drills. They look easy when Dan does them but then you realize they might need a lot of practice
-Asking myself if the end goal is to be mindful of this movement or do it instinctively
Amyway, great video, thank you!

[withaspoon]

Great video! Do you already have any content about the types of moves that cause the scorpion, e.g. moonkick/jumping up to holds on steep climbs? I've been looking around and can't find much that discusses the body mechanics of it. Any drills or what to think about when doing those moves would be amazing.

[stefanofalero]

yess i guessed righttt. decoupling the momentum of the lower body from your hands to maintain the handgle (hand angle)

[cameronbarnett]

Angel Dyno at Kraft Boulders in Vegas is a great example of a boulder that I kept punting with a pendulum and got it the first attempt after my friend told me to scorpion. It’s cool to see you really break down the move and see why it works.

[Kraaketaer]

Super useful! Doing drills like this is probably a bit above my level (at least anything beyond the first couple of levels), but this is still a super useful type of movement awareness that's definitely going to pay off. Though I do feel you contradict yourself a bit at one point - saying this is mainly a shoulder/upper body thing, and then towards the end pointing out that it's almost as much about relaxing and being loose in the lower back, hips and legs. Learning when to relax and how doing so can increase control on the wall is definitely a super useful skill too!

[Witho]

Pneuma 6A+ on the 40° 2019 Moon board is a good Boulder to try it out! Really enjoyed the boulder thanks to watch this video just before.

[daffydus]

Nice! I'm excited to try this. Can you use the scorpion on big sideways dynamic moves without a lot of overhang as well? Would be interesting to see a follow up video with that

[NestorMandela]

Nice! This would work wonders on my kilter sessions at 40° 😊

[AvianSolaris]

So cool, thank you for sharing!!! I didn’t realize that the little scorpion kick I like to do actually is an existing useful skill! 😄

[nandovancreij]

really interesting topic, i realize ive developed this technique unconscously through lots of board climbing, now i can recognize the concept of a scorpion in the majority of dynamic moves on poor holds, even hand bumps

[cyhe]

One thing to note, though, is that you aren't able to scorpion on lowball dyno moves, you'd otherwise dab. Could be interesting to see a similar video on the "cannonball" move, on how to grab holds but also keep your feet off of the ground when scorpion isn't an option.

[Strummify]

dan's technique is awesome to watch. wondering if Jason has tight hip flexors and maybe thats why he cant scorpion as nice. super helpful video.

[moehassani]

That’s really interesting. It looks like upper thoracic mobility is a key in being able to use this. Which is interesting given lots of climbers have a lot of limitations in that area. Thank you for the video!

[lazaraza]

Back in the days when I was slacklining, I used to say to the curious passers-by eager to try the line: "Use your leg that is not on the line as your tail, imagine you are a squirrel and your free leg is your tail, now fly..."

...

I'm just saying

[oleshikaru]

this was great! ive been doing the trash tucked version a lot i think so its time for a change haha!

[tunahanefe]

hi can u make a video for FDS injury whic exercise for strenght FDS