How to Layer Active Ingredients: Niacinamide, Vitamin C, AHA/BHA, Retinols & More!

With SO MANY ingredients out there, how do we know which ones work well together?! Today we give you guys the best skincare ingredient combinations that can truly work magic for your skin 😍These include vitamin A (retinoids), Vitamin B3 (niacinamide), Vitamin C and all its derivatives, the acid family (glycolic, lactic, mandelic acids and salicylic acid) and even lesser known ingredients like azelaic acid! These powerful ingredients can work to transform our skin by improving the texture, reducing acne, brightness and strengthening skin barrier bing bing ✨ We'll be going through each ingredient and what it can do for the skin, so get ready to kick back and find out all there is to know about your favorite skincare ingredients!

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P R O D U C T M E N T I O N S

This video is not sponsored but we have affiliate links to some of the mentioned products, which means every purchase made allows us to earn a small commission to keep our channel running :)

❤️Retinols (VItamin A)❤️

Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Booster ($44.20 USD)

Obagi Retinol 0.5 Retexturizing Cream ($55 USD)

💚Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)💚

Paula’s Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster ($37.40 USD)

💛L-Ascorbic Acid + Derivatives (Vitamin C)💛

Drunk Elephant C-Firma Vitamin C Day Serum ($80 USD)

Paula’s Choice C15 Super Booster ($41.65 USD)

Sunday Riley C.E.O Vitamin C Rich Hydration Cream ($55.25 USD)

The Ordinary Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10% ($9.60 USD)

Obagi Vitamin C + Arbutin Brightening Serum ($90 USD)

💙Hyaluronic Acid💙

The Lab Oligo Hyaluronic Acid Boosting Ampoule ($13.16 USD)

🧡AHAs🧡

Pixi Glow Tonic ($29 USD)

The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA ($6.79 USD)

Drunk Elephant T.L.C Framboos Glycolic Resurfacing Night Serum ($90 USD)

By Wishtrend Mandelic Acid 5% Skin Prep Water ($10.90 USD)

Farmacy Honeymoon Glow AHA Resurfacing Night Serum ($58 USD)

💙BHAs💙

Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant ($25.08 USD)

💜PHA💜

The Inkey List PHA Toner ($10.99 USD)

💖Azelaic Acid💖

Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster ($36 USD)

💛Check out our articles👇

7 Best-Selling Drunk Elephant Dupes with the Same Ingredients

9 Biggest Skincare Mistakes Causing Acne & Large Pore

You Might be Making a Skincare Mistake: Here’s 6 Combos

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Don't be a stranger 👻:

Dr. Sam Bunting’s videos:

How to confidently layer skincare

Customize your skincare active ingredients like a pro!

SOURCES

How much do we know about our favorite cosmeceutical ingredients?

How to combine skincare actives like a pro!

The correct way to layer acids in your skincare routine

How to use AHAs, BHAs & Vitamin C in a skincare routine

Why watch just one, check out our other vids, hehe

Interviews with cool peeps:

Beauty Within explores the world of skincare, beauty and wellness.

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[BeautyWithin]

Helloooo amazing people! We hope you enjoyed the video! Just thought we leave a quick note: this is just a very general set of guidelines for anyone wanting to start out with actives in their skincare routine, so we chose active combinations that we feel are best for beginners. 🤩


But this isn’t to say that you should follow the guideline to a T! Everyone’s skin is different and can even react well with ingredient combos that we didn’t mention here! So if you’re already someone who regularly incorporates actives in your routine, we encourage you to continue doing what you do since your skin is reacting super well to it! Hope this helps clear things up a bit! And as always, thank you soo much for your amazing support! 😘

[PhamNguyenLinhLan]

Here are my detailed notes on everything (because I was that bored)
*Getting to know the key active ingredients:*
Vitamin A (Retinoids/Retinols):
- Antioxidants
- Increase cell turnover (smooth out fine lines & wrinkles)
- Even texture
- Kill acne-causing bacteria
- Side effect includes drying => Pair well with moisturizer
- Not necessary until 25 years of age

Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide):
- Produced by our body to transform carbohydrates into energy
- Help all sorts of skin conditions (dullness & pore size)
- Balance sebum production & texture
- Less acidic than Vitamin C (4.5 pH level)

Vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid):
- Brightening effect
- Promote elastin & collagen production in the dermis layer
- Derivatives: tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate => Better for sensitive skin

Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA):
- Fruit/milk-derived chemical exfoliants that are water-soluble
- Slough off excess dead skin cells
- Unclog pores and even out skin tone (help with black & white heads)
- Common AHAs: glycolic acid (most potent), lactic acid (best for sensitive skin), tartaric acid, mandelic, and citric acid

Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA):
- Chemical exfoliants that are oil-soluble
- Control sebum production
- Smooth and minimize the look of enlarged pores

*Combining active ingredients:*

Hyaluronic Acid + Vitamin C
=> Extra synergistic boost (brightening & hydrating)
=> Help with dehydrated skin

Azelaic Acid + Vitamin C
=> Azelaic acid calms inflammation, kills acne-causing bacteria & treats post-acne marks
=> Paired with Vitamin C for amplified efficacy

Vitamin A (retinol) + Vitamin B3 (niacinamide)
=> Great combo for sensitive skin
=> Niacinamide helps dilute the potent effects of retinol
=> Help to stimulate ceramide production in the skin (ceramides are lipids that hold our skin together)

Vitamin B3 (niacinamide) + Vitamin C
=> Help smooth wrinkles and even out dull, pigmented skin (post-acne marks & hyperpigmentation)

Vitamin C + Vitamin E + Ferulic Acid
=> Stabilize & boost the efficacy of vitamin C
=> Calm down irritation & nourish skin
=> Create an ironclad shield that protects skin from the environment & UV rays & stimulating collagen


*Layering active ingredients:*

Method 1 - Texture & Consistency
- Watery products include toners and serums
- Creamy products are emollients like moisturizers
- Emollients trap water inside & soften the skin outside

=> Apply products from thinnest (watery) to thickest (creamy)


Method 2 - pH Levels
- pH scale ranges from 0 - 14, from acidic to alkaline
- Too acidic products can cause irritated, red, and inflamed skin
- Very alkaline products can cause dry, flaky, and dehydrated skin
- Ideal pH level for our skin lies between 4.5 - 5.5
- The lower the pH, the better absorption
- Products that are lower in the pH level (pH 2.5-4) : AHA, BHA, Vitamin C => Incorporate first or earlier in the skincare routine
- Products that are higher in the pH level (pH 4.5-7): Retinols, Niacinamide, Hyaluronic Acid, Copper Peptides, facial oils (jojoba oil, rosehip oil, etc) => Skin barrier friendly

=> Apply low pH products before high pH products

*Active ingredients for daytime routine:
*
Vitamin C + Vitamin E + Ferulic Acid (skin protection from UV rays)
AHA (for hyperpigmentation, acne marks, overall skin brightening)
BHA (for active breakouts)
Azelaic Acid
Gluconolactone (PHA - a milder form of AHA)

Cleansing
Vitamin C
AHA or BHA or azelaic acid (toner or serum)
Moisturizer
SPF sunscreen


*Active ingredient for nighttime routine:*
Retinols (helps with cell regeneration)
Retinols shouldn’t be used during the day due to its photosensitivity nature

Method 1:
Cleansing
Retinols
Moisturizer

Method 2: (preferable for beginners to retinols)
Cleansing
Hyaluronic/Niacinamide
Retinols
Moisturizer


Tips:
Pilling: flaky shits that appear on your skin after you apply products

Pilling occurs when your skincare doesn’t absorb into your skin

Give your skin an extra 10-30 seconds to allow the product to absorb

Applying products on damp skin helps better absorption

Personal note: According to dermatologists, ALWAYS apply Retinol on dry, moisturized skin.

[katemurphy]

How I wish someone would create an app that we could put all of our products and a routine would lol up. I.E. This is better at night. If you use this at night, then use this in the a.m. Etc. Yes, I'm only dreaming...but wow would that be helpful!!!

[baileytodtenbier]

Anyone else here learning to use The Ordinary?

[sheeba]

I have been using this vitamin C face serum by rice berry littleextra for a few months now, and I'm truly impressed with the outcomes. It's become an essential part of my everyday skincare regimen. Over time, the serum has noticeably reduced the size of my pores and faded dark spots. It's excellent for my sensitive skin. One of its standout features about this serum is its light, non-greasy texture. It absorbs quickly, making my skin feel refreshed without any greasy residue. I definitely recommend it to anyone who wants a brighter, more even complexion, particularly with the benefits of black rice water. This serum is gentle enough even for sensitive skin. After applying the face serum, I follow up with rice berry sunscreen, which contains niacinamide and kojic acid, These have helped me even further reduce dark spots. Also, practicing yoga daily helps maintain my skin's elasticity.

[AnimegirlLover]

_TIME STAMP LIST_
*Up vote for everyone to see!*
Let's continue the conversation down below and share tips and tricks!
_Key Active Ingredients_
Vitamin A/Retinoids/Retinols: 1:30
Vitamin B3/Niacinamide: 2:33
Vitamin C/L-Ascorbic Acid/Sensitive Skin w/Vitamin C: 3:33
AHA's/Alpha Hydroxy Acid/Sensitive Skin: 5:00
BHA'S/Beta Hydroxy Acid/Acne-Prone Skin: 6:10

_Pairing Active Ingredients_
Side Note-> Because Vita. C is a highly reactive ingredient I've put tags on the important sections
Hyaluronic Acid + Vitamin C: 7:10
Azelaic Acid + Vitamin C: 7:45
Vitamin A + Niacinamide/Sensitive Skin: 8:24
Niacinamide + Vitamin C (IMPORTANT!): 9:15
Vitamin C + Vitamin E + Ferulic Acid (IMPORTANT!): 10:12

_Layering Products_
Texture and Consistency (Based on your skincare routine): 11:11
Ph Scale (VERY IMPORTANT WHEN MIXING DIFFERENT INGREDIENTS/PRODUCTS): 12:40

_Active Ingredients + Skincare Routine_
Side Note-> Those with REALLY DRY SKIN should think about washing once a day as to not over dry their skin. Unless needed
Daytime Routine Essentials (Basic Skincare Routine): 14:20
Nighttime Routine Essentials (RETINOLS!!!!/BUFFERING THE SKIN!!!): 16:50

_Questions_
1. Dosage Active Ingredients (REALLY IMPORTANT!/ SKIN IRRITATION!!): 18:20
2. How Many Active Ingredients? (TARGETING SKIN CONCERNS): 19:05
3. Product Pilling (IS YOUR SKINCARE CLUMPING ON YOUR SKIN?): 19:45

OH MY GOD! I never got a notification on this!! Ya'll are welcome and I'm glad it helps!!

[Miumiu]

If you are using the Ordinary niacinamide + zinc, they instructed not to use it together with a vitamin c serum because the zinc in their formulation would react with vit c. Other niacinamide products are fine I guess.

[jaogoma]

11:11 texture/consistency
12:41 pH level
14:20 day time routine
16:50 night time routine

[froufroudeluxe]

*Guide:*

*Hyaluronoc acid + Vitamin C*
For hydration and skin brightening
*Azelaic acid + Vitamin C*
For discoloration and skin brightening
*Retinol + Niacinamide*
For calming sensitive skin to retinol and increase ceramide production
*Niacinamide + Vit C*
For fine lines, brightening skin, and hyperpigmentation/post acne marks
*Vit C + Vit E + Ferulic acid*
For calming irritation, nourishing the skin and protecting skin from the environment

[JocieBASMR]

This video is incredibly informative, thank you!

[sarahc]

I feel like I am watching a nicer and softer version of Crash Course, but in a skincare course ;)


Edit: Omg, thank you all for the likes, was not expecting to relate to so many people😆💕

[nicolelamoureux]

These two videos are like the information you get in hundreds of videos all in one! I love them so much!! Thank you!!

[TN-gird]

I'm blown away! I'm a newbie in the skincare world, and was looking around for guidance. This video gave answers to all the questions I had in my head. Instantly subscribed! Thank you!

[aamandazittlau]

I just wanna second someone else’s comment that we’d love a part 2!! I’m especially interested in learning about layering arbutin! 😊

[lavishsuma]

Love how you explain al these active ingredients. Honestly this breakdown is the easiest way anyone has broken down these skin care active ingredients. Awesome video!

[breezytea]

Wow! This was the best video I’ve watched on layering hands down. So detailed, complete and informative.

[andreia]

I'm 26 and don't have any sort of skincare routine so I'm binging all your videos for information so I can get what I need over Christmas, your videos are very educational and easy to understand, thank you x

[cindyarends]

Best video ever! All essential information compressed in 1 video with the how's. I wish this was the very first video I saw when I started with my abc's, Thank you!

[emmaf]

I was literally JUST praying you’d have a video on this. So perfect.

[martamaboo]

I have been into skin care for a while and know quite a bit BUT it is always refreshing and helpful to go over the key points again and expand my knowledge!
Thank you so much guys - this helped me out a lot ♡