Hub Drive VS Mid Drive eBike motor systems

What's the difference? Why are there different kinds? We explain the difference.

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Edited by Clark Abraham
Narred by: Mikey G

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[ajemohaltom]

Refreshing real world perspective. Its all about the stress. Bikes are nice because you can really see which parts of the system you're stressing and make an informed purchase. Nice to hear you're a ebike commuter and prefer a hub motor. It's funny how moving to a new apartment (and thus commute) really changes the stresses on the bike.

[AleHorry]

The biggest difference is that you have a transmision between the motor and the wheel with the mid engine, so at the same Watts and volts you have more speed on high gears and more power on low gears. Another point is that you can buy differents mid engines kits like Bafang or CYC and you dont need an specific frame for this. But yes, you have a lot of stress on the chainring, chain and cassette.

[squee]

I can't believe you wouldn't mention gearing at all in this video. This is the number one pro of a mid drive. the motor works within the bike's normal drive train, and gets all the benefits of a gear selection based on your needs.

[matsv]

The best one is a mid drive, with a front and back hub drive :D

[minoT]

Well said but let me add two points: with mid drive you don't have higher risk of damage to the chain only, you also have much quicker wear of all the transmission, chain spurs and pinions; though, the possibility of switching to lower gears not only allows higher torque on the wheel but also higher efficiency at very low speed (less consumption for the same power output). Second: hub mounted motors, especially the more "torquy" ones that are usually heavier, can disturb the work of the damper on a full suspended bike, as the increased mass of the wheel will tend to make the whole wheelmotor bounce. In my personal experience, better have quite a sophisticated suspension, where you can separately set compression dampening (quite tight) and extension dampening (quite low), so that any bump won't easily throw the wheel in the air but the wheel itself will come back down as quickly as possible. Tire pressure is important as well.

My personal opinion: the feasibility of hubs is much higher than mids, I've come back from a wood with a dismantled derailleur (no throttle control here in Europe, 250 W and PAS sensor by law!) by just spinning pedals. A high torque rear hub motor, central/front mounted battery and a proper shock absorber are a good set even for medium to hard offroad. For the hardest trails, a mid motor will make the difference.

[justinschiltz]

I can't believe this video's impeccable music choice.

[MoultrieGeek]

Outstanding presentation, very professional. I will harp on the fact you didn't mention gear ratios for the mid-drive but otherwise you did a fine job of explaining the pros and cons of each.

[CrispyDangles]

Wow this was really helpful, so many people swear mid drives are elite in every way, but I couldn't find one at a decent price. I'm deciding between the Rad Mini, Sonders Fold X, Wing Freedom Fatty, and iGo Fat Freddy, which are all hub drives.

[DavidCobb]

I was a confirmed mid-drive fan, but couldn't afford one. I found a great deal on an eMotion FS 650b (with rear hub motor) and bought it - and here's where I was converted to the rear-hub drive fan club.
Lifting or just unweighting the front wheel is important when riding trails - to get over obstacles. With a mid motor, the weight of the battery and motor are forward of the pivot point (the rear axle); whereas with a rear hub motor, only the battery weight is forward of the rear axle, making a noticeable difference to the amount of effort lifting the front wheel.
A good discussion video Blue Monkey folks! Thanks.

[hyflyin]

THANK YOU !! You are the first honest unbiased reviewer - Most are so many mid-drive lovers that fail to mention the very important fact that a "mid- drive ebike goes NOWHERE unless you are pedaling it!!" Why do they avoid that important issue??? Thanks for being an honest reviewer. I am 70 years old - with a 1000W Bafang rear hub motor Ebike and after I resolved the known AXLE SPINOUT problem from a high torque hub motor with a Grin Ebike torque arm (on Amazon) the only serious problem I had went away. I would never trade this in on a mid drive. I do pedal as much "as I can", but when I have had enough, my powerful hub drive motor takes me home like a moped !!!

[RavindraKempaiah]

The sprocket equalizing system on the Haibike is designed to keep the wheelbase short and increase the height so the chain doesn't slap against the chainstay. If you look at some of the Old Easy Motion EVO Jumpers, one of the chainstays is lower than the other but recently, they lowered both chainstays. If you use a SES pulley, you don't need to design a different chainstay.

[covercalls]

Good general info for those starting out. I've been riding E- bikes for over 4 years and for me the hub mounted motors are better when riding on the road. No breakdown so far, little maintenance. Problem is hub motors are heavy, require a bit more battery, and don't climb hills well. If you do more than 25% off road, forget the hub mount. A friend of mine likes to off road a lot and has a mid drive and I've used it and it is nice, good hill climbing, good acceleration, better handling and less weight. But I also see the strain it can put on other parts.

[AlanBiffable]

Mid drives don't always require you to pedal, the iZip bikes have the option of a throttle control now, the motors have an additional ratchet so they can turn without the pedals needing to turn.

[moneymaster]

absolutely love this guy the info he gives is very accurate and true. too many people with no idea will jump straight into the mid drive kits saying yeah mines better than yours and all that macho nonsense. i personally ride a rear hub 350w and it's powerful as you like. climbs hills and rockets along on the flats

[TapioBlue]

I used a front hub motor and you essentially have an all wheel drive bike. It's awesome in the snow and sand.

[matthewsalmon]

A mid drive will always be at a mechanical disadvantage because cassette rings are never bigger that drive rings. E.g. a 90Nm mid drive with a 46t drive chainring and a 34-11t cassette will apply 90Nm*34t/46t = 66.5Nm wheel torque in the lowest gear speed (and 21.5Nm in the highest gear). Wheel size also effects torque effectiveness. 60Nm wheel torque on a 27.5in (70cm) wheel is only 85.7N wheel force vs 118N on a 20in (50.8cm) wheel. The wheel force is what really counts for accelerating the bike and rider. Acceleration equals force/mass.

[stevemorris]

Missed the most important difference: Mid-Drive motors have a transmission (gearing) to assist them.

[TechnoTempleStudios]

Mid drives are overwhelming superior when it comes to efficiency as it has variable gearing available which gives you the best torque range whereas a hub is basically a one speed drive which limits climbing ability and top speed compared to mid drive of same motor power.

[jzbreezio]

Love this cutthroat video. Nice touch with 1:10 a visual of the chinese sweat shops working hard for the crap us consumers spend our money on!

[scottcrowley]

Belt mid-drives are coming on strong. Quieter, stronger and longer lasting. No real maintenance either. Adds a bit to cost but the benefits are great.